kinglt-1

iTrader: (26)

unless I am reading the graph wrong it looks like your afr's start around 11.5 then dip all the way down to 10.5 by redline? If thats the case, leaning it out to around 12.5 would probably yield some substantial gains.

James Montigny

iTrader: (13)

I started a thread over in the PCM Diagnostics & Tuning section to fish for ideas.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagn...1-pe-mode.html
I have not found any issues yet, but I will continue to dig.

After reviewing the tuner's notes, it looks like the car made 385 at just under 13:1 before we re-assigned injector banks.
But we had one side reading ultra rich and one ultra lean at that point.
When we fixed the assignments, left and right O2s came back into line but power dropped off significantly.
Adding fuel helped get it back to 385, but it still doesn't seem right to me.

Timing was backed off to 28* and advanced until it made the most power.
I've been told by at least two tuners who've done 24x (and an old CHTP artical) that this setup should run much less timing.
So that didn't make sense either.

Since the dyno tune session, I've;
- installed new plugs and increased gap from .022 (factory) to .060 (recommended for my setup)
- Swapped my old rusty Hooker headers for Kooks
- Fresh oil and filter
- Several tanks of fresh fuel and a round of cleaner since the car sat so much over the last few years.
- Complete flush and fresh coolant

It still runs very rich and leaves a cloud when I stop at a light or idle in a parking lot.
But it feels very smooth and strong at part of full throttle.
In fact, the only place it feels rough is on cold starts where it floods itself unless I rev it to over 800.
To be honest, I don't think a 625 idle is healthy for a cammed stroker anyhow so I'll probably just raise it and call that done.

I have a Vac pump installed, I just need to plumb it over to the valve cover.
I plan to do that and double-check cam alignment as well as preload while I have them off.
The VC gaskets are leaking a little at WOT, so it's probably time to change.
(I run SBC cork gaskets to get the canton's to seal against my Dart heads)

My starter seems a little close to the flexplate and squeels when I first start moving.
Shims helped a little, but I think it's a forward/backwards issue rather than an up/down issue.
I might try switching back to an OEM starter to see if that fixes it.
I doubt that has anything to do with running rich though.

Blue85350

iTrader: (1)

What starter are you running? My powermaster did the same thing, and it ended up needing a shim between the mounting block and the starter itself. I picked one up at my local speed shop for ~$30

James Montigny

iTrader: (13)

Powermaster XS 9502, we shimmed it tonight between the engine block and starter.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PWM-9502



From this picture, it looks like you should be able to move the starter forward and back using the screw on the top.
I didn't notice that when I had it out today, I'll have to look again.

Blue85350

iTrader: (1)

Mine looks nothing like that so I can't help you there. I have a 9600. Looks like you may be able to adjust it with that threaded rod like you said.