jay7199

iTrader: (9)

Yeah im sure this has been asked before but i couldnt find what i was looking for.

Checking summit for some ARP main bolts for my el old lt1 but they seem to only have main studs..if i recall someone suggested bolts to me but i cant remeber.

So should i go with the studs or the bolts, and if im getting bolts where to buy since summits search engine is weird..

jay7199

iTrader: (9)

Oh in addition i have a question about the oil pumps, I read a thread that was a few years old saying that the Melling high volume oil pumps will eat the drive shaft up...

My pumps brand new i bought it last year, im pretty sure i picked up one of the high volumes, any idea if these still have the problem?

norcal18

iTrader: (3)

personally if you have the extra dough go with studs. studs are usually about twice as much as bolts i believe.

jay7199

iTrader: (9)

yes they are like 70 bucks shipped from summit.

I probably wont make over 550whp with this motor though (thats on a bottle)

So i think bolts would do me fine if i can find them.

nitrous2fast

iTrader: (2)

get studs. period. Cheap insurance. better torquing.

James Montigny

iTrader: (13)

Studs will provide more clamping force to keep things where they need to be.
As long as you're in there, it's not a bad idea.

The kit I used said that ti worked with both LT1 and SBC.
I've heard that some kits specifically say that they do not fit LT1.
Also, some work with windage trays, some do not.


This should help;
http://www.summitracing.com/search/M...word=main+stud

93Z2871805

iTrader: (5)

ARP 134-5502 is the LT1 stud kid with windage tray, I don't think you can get an ARP bolt kit with the windage tray provisions. I'd use the studs and double check bearing clearance and roundness to see if it needs to be align honed.

jay7199

iTrader: (9)

it should have been align honed already.

James Montigny

iTrader: (13)

It should be checked again after installing studs.
They can cause the walls to shift slightly.

jay7199

iTrader: (9)

bump, studs it is. I hpoe i dont need another align hone though cuz im broke.

Still need input on oil pump

nitrous2fast

iTrader: (2)

get a high pressure/std volume oil pump.

09jyounger

iTrader: (3)

Let's swap those around...High volume, standard pressure. A high pressure pump will suck more oil yes, but if you don't get it back down to the pan fast enough, there's a chance it could run dry. Also the fact a high pressure pump will take more power to run, and not to mention relief valve problems. The only application that I could see a high pressure pump being needed would be in a 390 Ford, or something with a cam priority oiling system. In your application, more oil is always a good thing, but more pressure isn't. Mellings are good pumps and can be picked up for a reasonalbe price. Try to stick with stock specs, or strictly high volume/standard pressure and you'll be fine. Also, have the pick up tube tack welded in place. Pressed on pick up tubes have a tendency of falling off.

jester1614

iTrader: (13)

this guy is wrong, not trying to stomp on toes, but if you search the site you will find out that the m155HV is both a weaker casting, as well as the high volume pumps tend to suck the pan dry (very bad thing). A new pump with a higher pressure relief spring Gives you better oil pressure than the standard lt1 (lt1's typically run a relatively low oil pressure) and the fact of the stock oil pressure being sometimes 8-9psi at idle hot and 20-30 in higher rpms and still being within gm specs is unnerving to alot of people

I am going with a M155 melling with a gm "white" High pressure relief spring in my new motor.

pump i am using
http://www.jegs.com/i/Melling/689/M1...oductId=745639

gm white spring
3848911
order from dealer, ask for that part number, and its like 6 bucks

jester1614

iTrader: (13)

I think 09jyounger has it backwards in his head, or between his head and the keyboard

A higher volume oil pump moves more oil (volume) but moves it at the stock pressure (as low as 7-8lbs at idle)

A higher pressure oil pump moves the standard (stock volume) of oil but puts more pressure behind the oil (moving it towards the bearings and such) giving you from what i hear typically 30+lbs of pressure at idle and up to 60lbs at higher rpms

if you do the oil pump listed above you will need to get a new oil pump shaft

another option out there is a melling 10554 it comes with the oil pump shaft and a white spring installed

http://www.jegs.com/i/Melling/689/10554/10002/-1?CT=999
standard volume high pressure
not sure if it comes with the pickup but for either pump you will need a pickup as well

speed_demon24

iTrader: (6)

If the relieve valve isn't open at idle, which it isn't, a high pressure spring won't do a thing to raise the oil pressure at idle.

jester1614

iTrader: (13)

good to know, I must have recieved misinformation, thank you for correcting me do you agree with what else was said?