draggin97s10

iTrader: (2)

Skimmed them. Read more carefully and I still think it's ridiculous to say it may be a head gasket. Perhaps a better question is whether or not coolant is being consumed, or after removing the plugs if there are one or more that look "cleaner" than the others. BTW... when a head gasket goes oil is never lost. There is no oil transferred through the head gasket. Oil cannot get into the cooling system via blown head gasket.



No what i meant was the other way around, but yes i worded it sounding that way. but i did ask if coolant was being consumed...didnt i?

GMC5.3

iTrader: (2)

ok i will double and triple check the wiring,

As for this head gasket issue, i will double check the coolant, i just figured the white smoke and coolant out of the pipes was for sure a head gasket problem

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

No.

If it sat for a year it could be nothing more than condensation as well. Check your oil and check the coolant level.

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

Despite reading through the posts, I, too, can't seem to get on board with the "I changed the plugs, now have this weird sound, and coolant coming out the pipes, so I guess I have a blown head gasket"........


How did the car run BEFORE you changed the plugs?

Did you have coolant running out of the pipes BEFORE you changed the plugs?

Was the car making any weird noises BEFORE you changed the plugs?

Did you use a torque wrench to tighten the plugs?

In other words, did the car show some signs of issues, and you decided to start out by changing the plugs, thinking that bad plugs (or wires) might be the problem?


For what it's worth, I've changed the plugs and replaced the plug wires twice on my '96 Z-28, and so far, it hasn't caused a head gasket failure.....

GMC5.3

iTrader: (2)

I pulled the car from my brother in laws house, where it had been sitting for about a year, the info i got from him was it wasnt running right, so i started with the basics, i cant tell you how it sounded before the plug change and i cant say if it had coolant running out of the pipes before we pulled the car. As of now this is the condition it is in at my house since i started it.


Yesterday we took it for a drive, and i believe it needs a head gasket, we were blowing white smoke like we were burning the tires. So with that said, can you guys get on board with changing the headgasket?

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Perhaps. You can do two things:
Take plugs out to see if one or more are cleaner than the others. Clean plugs will indicate coolant leaking into cylinders.

Pressurize coolant system with pressure tester (rent one from Autozone or equiv. Pressurize to no more than 18psi) with the plugs removed. Note how quickly pressure bleeds down. Rotate engine by hand and see if coolant spills out of cylinders.

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

OK, NOW you've provided a little more information to go on.....


Do what "SS RRR" suggested.

djjab57

iTrader: (17)

I say Use ARP head bolts and the ARP thread sealant with them if you have to pull your heads

GMC5.3

iTrader: (2)

Actually this info was provided in post # 7 of this thread

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

OK, I missed that tidbit.... Was the car sitting somewhere where it would get below freezing? Did it have anti-freeze in it, so the heads or block wouldn't have cracked?

GMC5.3

iTrader: (2)

Only info i got on that is for a few days it did get below 0, maybe -10 at the most, but thats all i know for sure. When i got the car i drained the coolant from just the radiator and it was definitely low. Me and my wife took it for a drive yesterday just to see if it was perhaps condensation like mentioned by a member here.

Seems as the car warmed up is when it started blowing white smoke pretty bad, low coolant lamp was on the whole time but the sensor gauge was working and didnt overheat. Hopefully this info helps, and i appreciate all the posts from everyone

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

If it got to -10, and there wasn't any anti-freeze in it, or it was too dilluted with water, that could be a real problem. Keep in mind, water freezes at 32 degrees, and when it freezes, it expands.....

GMC5.3

iTrader: (2)

So i will stick with changing out both head gaskets and bolts, now has anyone ever attempted this, without very much knowledge on it. I got a haynes manual and i will be following this. Any tips are appreciated

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/14314578-post6.html

Once you get the heads off you need to take them to a machine shop to have them pressure tested and surface checked to see if any milling needs to be done to true them up.

918_ws6

hahaaha, alot of bickering going on here. heres some advice on doing your head gaskets. if you still have the stock headers, they DONT HAVE to come out completely. just disconnect underneath so they have play. and take your time. and let the sealant you use on the IM sit a full 24hrs to set. and get a new steam pipe, (pipe that runs on the backside of the motor running from head to head). i made the mistake of not but fixed it. it took me 2 days to do the head gaskets last week. only because the sealant needed to dry. and ive never done them on this motor before. have fun and take the hood off

918_ws6

and im lost about when you (OP) said that the alt bracket was just hanging there......like its not mounted to the blot on the IM? cause if its not, then that may be an issue, that bracket helps with keeping the alt level with the belt

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

I wouldn't bother taking the hood off, as it won't buy you all that much extra work room...The biggest "thing" in the way is the cowl, and since it's part of the unit-body, it's not going anywhere.



(I'm not positive, but maybe if you unhook the gas struts on the hood, you might be able to pivot it back against the roof of the car, and out of the way)

Marc3.4V6

iTrader: (1)

Ever had shorties? Its not fun, but 7 hours does sound like a lot.

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

It takes me about 4 hours, but that's because A) I'm getting close to 60, and I don't move quite as quickly as I used to; B) I do this job from the bottom, and it takes about 30 minutes just to get the car safely up on the jack stands; and C) I remove the "Y" pipe, which takes about another 30-45 minutes. After that, it takes about 15-20 minutes to change plugs 1,3,4,5,6,7,8, then another 20-30 minutes of wrist bending and swearing, to change #2.

Another hour and a half or so, and the car is back on the ground, running....


For a first-timer, as crazy as it sounds, 7 hours isn't all that unbelievable.

GMC5.3

iTrader: (2)

So to do this headgasket, is this all the stuff i will be needing? I was under the impression that i just needed to get gaskets, sealant, and have lots of time. Let me know, thanks

Found this on Thunder Racing,

LT1 Cylinder Head Swap Gasket Package includes: GM Cylinder Head Gaskets, GM Intake Manifold Gaskets, FelPro Header Gaskets, GM EGR Gaskets, GM Valve Cover Gaskets, GM Throttle Body Gasket, GM Cylinder Head to Coolant Tube Gaskets