Help me Identify this Crank?
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From: fort walton beach,fl
Help me Identify this Crank? Ok i believe it to be a "SCAT" i dont know if its forged or cast its used from a 383 rotating assembly i bought , it seems to have what appears to be a date on it... it seems to have "CAT" on the front counter weight where a balancing weight took out the "S" before the "CAT" .. it has a marking tha reads "HD CL" it is possible this crank is over 10yrs old.. i can find only one line on it that would appear to be a casting line.. considering using it on my 383 build with eagle h-beams and srp forged slugs, ported stockers, LE cam... goal of 400HP...as a starting point.may use a power adder later...
HELP?
HELP?
Last edited by defaultexistence; Apr 25, 2011 at 10:10 PM.
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From: fort walton beach,fl
thanks but not what i'm asking, i have 6" h-beams and pistons for a 383 build so...yea i'm not buying all new ****...i may buy a crank but want feedback on this one for now.....
Last edited by defaultexistence; Apr 25, 2011 at 10:02 PM.
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With that being the only line seen, try the hammer method. Tap the counterweight with a steel hammer. If the crank makes a high pitch sound (like a bell ringing) than it's forged. If it makes a dull thud then it's cast. I wouldn't go off one little area like that. Usually the casting line can be seen down the entire length of the crank. Every area that has the above transition would have a line. When I get home I can get you some pics of the stocker I have in my garage that has parting lines on every section you are looking at. And just because it may be 10 yrs old, does not mean it's no good. As long as it specs out and is balanced you'll be fine. Plus with the amount of Mallory in that thing, it's got to be pretty light. or you have a heavy a$$ rod and piston combo.
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From: fort walton beach,fl
i have a stocker here and see the parting lines all over it... looks like ****...the questionable crank here looks nothing like the stocker..thats for sure... i tried the hammer tap pitch idea...still not sure.. as it rings kina like the stock one so *** if i know..
If it's sounding like the stock one, then chances are it's cast. IIRC Ohio has really good prices, so it may be worth it to just get a forged one from there. Especially if you've now changed the pistons, since you'll probably want to have it re-balanced for the new bob weights.
Since I just looked and it's $475 from Ohio for the 3.75" crank and you can tell them what bob weight....I'd just spend the money there. Then it's a for sure deal and there is no guessing. I'd still have it balanced, just to top it off and be sure, but it's a really good start and should save you a ton on balancing.
Since I just looked and it's $475 from Ohio for the 3.75" crank and you can tell them what bob weight....I'd just spend the money there. Then it's a for sure deal and there is no guessing. I'd still have it balanced, just to top it off and be sure, but it's a really good start and should save you a ton on balancing.
Lots of bad reviews on the Ohio stuff even though people say its good on here. I would go Eagle or Scat first. Oh BTW Eagle cranks come from the same place Callies/Compstar do
http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh...=175263&page=2
http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh...=175263&page=2
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From: fort walton beach,fl
So basically I have read dirt on every single crank company to where I don't know who to trust ..... Christ...
Opinions and ********...everyone's got em' and I don't know what to damn buy...lol
Opinions and ********...everyone's got em' and I don't know what to damn buy...lol
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From: Kingfisher Oklahoma
If you keep the RPMs low(less than 6500) and the power below 500 CHP the cast crank will be fine. Spin it fast or put some juice to it and it "may" fail. Which is what both Scat and Eagle recommend for their cast cranks.
I had a cast Eagle stroker crank fail, but i was exceeding 500 CHP and spinning it faster than 6500 rpm. The failure was the thrust bearing surface of the crank.
I had a cast Eagle stroker crank fail, but i was exceeding 500 CHP and spinning it faster than 6500 rpm. The failure was the thrust bearing surface of the crank.
Eagle and Scat have had lots of problems with their cast junk, but Ohio has many probs with their forged cranks. Just google it.
Heres more horror stories
http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic...ht=ohio+cranks
Heres more horror stories
http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic...ht=ohio+cranks
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Kingfisher Oklahoma
Eagle and Scat have had lots of problems with their cast junk, but Ohio has many probs with their forged cranks. Just google it.
Heres more horror stories
http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic...ht=ohio+cranks
Heres more horror stories
http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic...ht=ohio+cranks
I would go Eagle or Scat first. Oh BTW Eagle cranks come from the same place Callies/Compstar do
http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh...=175263&page=2
http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh...=175263&page=2
I still don't get all the Eagle hate on here - the damn things are good to over 1,000 hp, no questions asked. How many LT1s are making 4 digit power numbers on here? I can count em on one hand
. Sure they may need machine work, but ANY brand crank needs to be gone over and balanced to your rotating assembly before use. They aren't Chinese junk, they are overseas forgings finished in the US just like Compstar. Yep^^ Eagle has more forged cranks out there racing every weekend than any other company with a great track record. Their cast stuff is garbage just like any other aftermarket companies cast junk though.
FormerVendor
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 335
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From: Fostoria, OHIO
Lots of bad reviews on the Ohio stuff even though people say its good on here. I would go Eagle or Scat first. Oh BTW Eagle cranks come from the same place Callies/Compstar do
http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh...=175263&page=2
http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh...=175263&page=2
-Adam @ Callies