Car starts for a second or 2 and cuts right off..
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Car starts for a second or 2 and cuts right off..
My member has a 94 z28 and it has been over heating for about week, yesterday he went to start it an it cut right of.. He tried to start it again an it did the same thing.. Even if i press down on the gass the car looses all power and cutts right off..
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does the security light flash or stay on? how long was it drove while over heating, how hot did it get, is it smoking, does it loose coolant ,...? you see where were going here? ..more info...
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start by disconnecting the MAF (mass airflow sensor) if they go bad they will do exactly as you are describing. however a failing opti and a few other things can cause it too, but what i suggested you try first and the easiest to diagnose
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I am definitely concerned about the overheating aspect. How much, temperature wise? Are we talking 220°-230° or are we talking 260°+ buried in the red? If you warp a head bad enough I am sure that could factor in to the problems you are talking about. I had to end up rebuilding my LT1 because it overheated, these aluminum heads are finicky.
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No, no security light.. It got up about halfway on the temp Gage and when it was parked it rose up to about 3/4.. The first time it was started an we noticed it cutt right back off was the only time I seen grey smoke come out the exaust.. And yes when it was parked after driving the temp Gage rose an coolant came out the over flow..
We removed the whole air intake from the throttle body.. Should I still disconnect the MAF?
I am definitely concerned about the overheating aspect. How much, temperature wise? Are we talking 220°-230° or are we talking 260°+ buried in the red? If you warp a head bad enough I am sure that could factor in to the problems you are talking about. I had to end up rebuilding my LT1 because it overheated, these aluminum heads are finicky.
Yes it was in the 220 - 230 range.. But every Tyme he would park his hoses would feel extremely tight.. And yes that's true because I have aluminum on my LT but his is a RAGG top with cast iorn heads.. I KNO they can go out aslo but it can take a little more of a beating rite?
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so you're saying you removed the intake from the throttle body itself and didn't also disconnect the MAF? ding ding ding!!! thats your problem right there! disconnect that maf or get the intake back on the throttle body
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No. We tried to start the car with the intake on and MAF hooked up an it still did the same thing.. Then we tried intake on MAF off.. Still Nothing..
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The opti will shut down the whole car?
The motor has about 155k on it.. And so you say it could be the opti? Is that a sign of a bad opti? And would the car still start but shut right off if it's the opti?
The motor has about 155k on it.. And so you say it could be the opti? Is that a sign of a bad opti? And would the car still start but shut right off if it's the opti?
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Yeah there is a lot of things that could be causing your issues. But as far as the overheating is concerned; my suggestion is that your thermostat may need to be replaced, its a cheap and easy fix.
Try getting a good look under the car at the bottom of, and around the water pump. A slow seaping water pump leak could be causing your optispark to go out.
Try getting a good look under the car at the bottom of, and around the water pump. A slow seaping water pump leak could be causing your optispark to go out.
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We've checked the water pump an there's no leakage onto the opti and I wouldn't call it major work but rite befor it happined we had to replace the alternator..
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Sounds like the ICM to me. If you have a friend with an LT1, swap them out and give it a try. Shouldn't take more than 10 minutes. And if that's the problem, they're rather inexpensive to replace.