LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

PTV clearance for a friend

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Old 05-02-2011, 01:58 PM
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Default PTV clearance for a friend

So my buddy and I are doing Similar if not the Same build lol.. Im concerned with the clearance he is going to have but would like someone with more knowledge than us to give your opinion.. Before i go further when his heads come back we are going to measure to double check..

His build:
stock crank
eagle forged 5.7 rods
speedpro pistons +6.1cc valve reliefs(Look just like stock) 4.030
victor reiniz .026 (impala) headgaskets 4.110 bore
55cc heads 2.00/1.56 valves
cc306 cam
1.6 rockers
new stock gm timing set
crane 10308-1 valve spring kit
pistons are .005 in the hole


Im just curious on the valve clerance.. I know the compression will be about 11.9:1..

lmk what you think and i will relay the info
Old 05-02-2011, 02:16 PM
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don't bother checking
Old 05-02-2011, 02:18 PM
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LOL why not?
Old 05-02-2011, 02:18 PM
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i'd be a little concerned about your piston to head clearance though. stock crank and 5.7" rod... you might barely kiss
Old 05-02-2011, 02:24 PM
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How would i check that? Apply a slight film of playdough to the entire piston? Im confused on how the head would contact the piston if it sits above the deck and the piston is /.005 in the hole.. Not disagreeing just trying to cover the basses.. inotherwords.. Educate me LOL
Old 05-02-2011, 02:29 PM
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The pistons are essentially a flat top with the 4 valve reliefs.. the volume of the reliefs is 6.10cc.. The way i typed it before made them sound like a dome piston
Old 05-02-2011, 02:34 PM
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your crank, rods and block flex. your pistons expand with heat and rock in the bore. You'll probably clean the carbon off up around 7000 rpm, but should be ok as long as you're truly .005 in the hole. You should measure the deck clearance with piston rocking, then average the numbers for your "actual" deck clearance.
Old 05-02-2011, 02:34 PM
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with a steel rod you need at least .030 quench to be safe.......you'll be fine I'm running the same exact thing .005 and .026 gasket with no issues.............as for the ptv measure it........ALWAYS measure it........the best way to do it is with a light duty checker spring...........bolt ur head up with the gasket and set up one cylinder with the light springs......then put a dial indicator on the valve stem..........rotate the motor till its at peak valve lift then push the indicator down by hand and you will see how far the valve goes till it hits the piston.............do this 30* in each direction and you will se exactly the profile of the cam and how it fits in the motor...............for a HR setup like u are building with those springs i wouldn't go under .100 on the intake and .115 on the exhaust
Old 05-02-2011, 02:44 PM
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you're running pretty tight, eh?

6" rod, tight piston to wall and 4032 pistons?

I was barely touching on my last motor with .032, 6" rod and 2618 JEs and somewhat loose piston to wall. I think .031 is tight but good for your average 355, but i have doubts about joe blow average hillbilly ls1tech'r doing a 383 that tight.
Old 05-02-2011, 04:46 PM
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quick95 where could i get a spring to check it? Also what kind of piston are you running?

wicked So He should be more concerned about the piston hitting? I verified they are indeed .005 in the hole.. Anything else that i should check?
Old 05-02-2011, 04:57 PM
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Valve check springs

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRO-66793/
Old 05-02-2011, 04:59 PM
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sweet. So i guess we are going to need a dial indicator of some sort? anyone recomend a decent one that isnt too pricey?
Old 05-02-2011, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Wicked94Z
you're running pretty tight, eh?

6" rod, tight piston to wall and 4032 pistons?

I was barely touching on my last motor with .032, 6" rod and 2618 JEs and somewhat loose piston to wall. I think .031 is tight but good for your average 355, but i have doubts about joe blow average hillbilly ls1tech'r doing a 383 that tight.
haha yea shes a little tight and i run a 2618 pro series piston.......my quench is .031 but it makes it espically with the billet rod and the good crank with the billet caps to stop block walk it keeps the stretch and movement down to a minimum.............if i told you how close my piston to valve is you'd prob have me admitted lol
Old 05-02-2011, 09:51 PM
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i remember you running it real close My piston to valve the other day was 0.00000000000000000000" I like to run em real close too apparently
Old 05-03-2011, 07:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Wicked94Z
i remember you running it real close My piston to valve the other day was 0.00000000000000000000" I like to run em real close too apparently
lol yea thats just not good...........what was the final damage report on that??
sorry op
Old 05-03-2011, 08:18 AM
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LOL its all good guys.. Any other things that i should consider??
Old 05-03-2011, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by speedracer2536
LOL its all good guys.. Any other things that i should consider??
should have it covered...........personally a degree wheel is a nice tool to have also though........id look into one
Old 05-03-2011, 09:30 AM
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Well my engine builder built his motor also and installed the cam and what not for him.. What would the degree wheel accomplish?
Old 05-04-2011, 08:33 PM
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make sure the cam is ground correctly. I ordered a 260/264 on a 110+3. It came out a 262/265 on a 109.75+.68 You need to use offset bushings or adjustable timing and a degree wheel to put the cam as close as posible to what you ordered.
Old 05-05-2011, 08:56 AM
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Ahhh ya HKE put it on a cam doctor? it was ground correctly.. Ill ask today how it was installed



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