LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Overheating problem

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Old 05-08-2011, 12:32 PM
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Default Overheating problem

A while back I bought a 1996 Formula that was in pretty rough shape and in non start condition. I recently got it all put together and have some issues. The mods in the car are comp engineering drag shocks, lca relocation brackets, heater hose mod, 3.42's, eBay headers and y pipe, ngk tr55 plugs, Msd wires, ls1 steering shaft, fuel line relocation, wire mod, ls1 front brakes, egr and air delete, hvac delete, power steering delete, low mount alternator relocation, ls1 lid coming soon and I have taken out plenty of weight. I have been trying to get the car from over heating but I have not been successful. I have gotten a new water pump, thermostat, radiator, hoses, fans, radiator cap, coolant and sensors. Before I turn it on I always flip the switch for the fans onto high and ill start her up. I let her sit there and wait to see of she will warm up but all I see is the needle dig in on the red side and the check gauges light comes on. After that happens I go check the motor and its not really too hot. I can even open the radiator and all I get is a lil pressure to pop out and noting more the water barely feels warm. When I touch the hoses while running they don't feel warm or anything. I switched the sensor in the water pump so that I could get the same reading to the computer and temp gauge. I hope this is enough info in the problem.

Thanx for any help
Old 05-08-2011, 12:35 PM
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Could possibly be a faulty temp sending unit.
Old 05-08-2011, 12:47 PM
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There are two temperature sending units, one for the PCM mounted on the water pump, the other for the gauge mounted in the driver's side head just under the header. How long does it run before the gauge shows overheating? (I don't understand : "I switched the sensor in the water pump so that I could get the same reading to the computer and temp gauge." What exactly did you do?

Al 95 Z28
Old 05-08-2011, 12:49 PM
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I tried the stock one located in the driver side head twice and it would not send a temp, once I tried the mod which would send the temp to both the computer and temp gauge it finally started reading it. Idk if I should try leaving it on till I see signs of a real overheating problem but I just don't want to blow any head gaskets. I would believe that it should build up some pressure after running for a couple shouldn't it?
Old 05-08-2011, 12:55 PM
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On ltxtech there was a thread on switchin the sensor on the water pump and the connector to the sensor would be wired up the green wire leading to the gauge as well as the two wires leading to the computer. This mod is meant to get the same reading to both computer and gauge in attempt to get rid of the crappy sensor in the head that never works right. I have two firebirds and neither one uses the head temp sensor for readings on temp gauge
Old 05-08-2011, 01:04 PM
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http://ltxtech.com/forums/showthread...ght=temp+gauge

This is where I got the mod from
Old 05-08-2011, 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Xposure
I'm new to this so I did not now about that mod. But: If you run out of water, like bust a hose or something, the water pump will not get hot. Well it may but it would be too late to do any good. Chevrolet put the gauge sensor in the head for a reason, because it gets hot quick if the water is gone. That's why they moved it from the intake manifold many years ago. If they could have saved 10 cents on a sensor they would have.

Just my opinion.....

Al 95 Z28
Old 05-08-2011, 01:34 PM
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The reason I did that mod was because out of the sensor that came on the car, one from the junk yard and a new one from autozone along wit three different connectors, I could not get the temp gauge to move until I did this mod
Old 05-08-2011, 05:19 PM
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Possibly the water pump drive shaft coupler went out
Old 05-08-2011, 05:33 PM
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U should try and get the correct temp sending unit from the dealer. Local stores like autozone and pepboys will sell u a engine coolant temp sensor which goes into the waterpump instead of a temp sending unit which goes in the head.
And u r bleeding all of the air out thru the thermostat neck rite?
Old 05-08-2011, 07:01 PM
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When i installed the new water pump i filled the block completely with long life coolant from az and i let it sit for thirty like that to make sure it did not go down anymore. I then put the new 180 degree thermostat also from az and then filled the radiator up with the one bleeder screw open. I have deleted the hvac lines on the water pump and simply put a plug on them so i only have one bleeder screw. I do also have the steam pipe connected straight to the radiator in the opening right below the one that goes to the overflow tank. I will probably try the right sending unit but i still dont think that will solve the problem of me being able to run my car for five minutes and not build up any pressure in the system. i can go and pop open the cap on the radiator right after and nothing major like gushing coolant will happen like on my other firebird.
Old 05-08-2011, 07:02 PM
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How would i check the water pump shaft coupler?
Old 05-08-2011, 09:54 PM
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Un Bolt the water pump and behind you'll see the coupler mine was spinning freely, the inside was grazed out
Old 05-08-2011, 10:02 PM
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Well I tried spinning it and it had a lil slack but never spun freely on either the motor part of the water pump part



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