Any HR guys spinning to atleast 7500 RPM
#3
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Wicked had a 7500 HR combo running recently, until a spring incident gave him some problems.
Weight will be your enemy.
I kinda agree with quick tho - at the cam sizes that make power to 7500 it starts making sense to go SR.
Weight will be your enemy.
I kinda agree with quick tho - at the cam sizes that make power to 7500 it starts making sense to go SR.
#4
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Never heard of many if any 7500+rpm hydraulic roller LT1's before that lived but there might be a few out there like the super stock guys. But in the long run it's cheaper to just go solid and be done with valve float. later
#5
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yea i went 7000+ a few times with mine before a valvespring let go cruising on the freeway ![Sad](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_sad.gif)
no mild ramps here, no spendy lightweight stuff either. Now that doesn't mean steel retainers and everything, but it doesn't mean some convoluted/drilled titanium stuff either. I had steel locks on it, solid stem steel valves, comp 875 lifters, etc. The springs and retainers are about 450 dollars, the lifters are like 200 bucks, no 3/8" pushrods, no shaft mounts or stud girdles either.
That makes it only marginally more expensive than a cookie cutter LE/Ai/Comp/whatever??
Why does valve float have to be an issue with hydraulic stuff, lifter weight ain't that big of a deal when you have spring pressure x rocker ratio acting on the lifter.
I was (will be again) running 200/490 for spring pressure. With a breadbox LTx intake manifold the duration is only in the 240s for a 355 and 250s for a 383. Add 6-8 degrees of intake duration and wider LSA for a single plane style intake.
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no mild ramps here, no spendy lightweight stuff either. Now that doesn't mean steel retainers and everything, but it doesn't mean some convoluted/drilled titanium stuff either. I had steel locks on it, solid stem steel valves, comp 875 lifters, etc. The springs and retainers are about 450 dollars, the lifters are like 200 bucks, no 3/8" pushrods, no shaft mounts or stud girdles either.
That makes it only marginally more expensive than a cookie cutter LE/Ai/Comp/whatever??
Why does valve float have to be an issue with hydraulic stuff, lifter weight ain't that big of a deal when you have spring pressure x rocker ratio acting on the lifter.
I was (will be again) running 200/490 for spring pressure. With a breadbox LTx intake manifold the duration is only in the 240s for a 355 and 250s for a 383. Add 6-8 degrees of intake duration and wider LSA for a single plane style intake.
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Larger base circle cam makes aggressive lobes much easier to control. Not much point comparing apples to oranges here :shrug:
IMO, if you're wanting to spin that much rpm with the LTx or even SBC platform, might as well nut-up and go solid.
IMO, if you're wanting to spin that much rpm with the LTx or even SBC platform, might as well nut-up and go solid.
#10
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For a rough estimate this is some of what you need to take into consideration for a healthy SR setup:
Billet SR cam: LE spec'd me a COMP ~$300
Pressure-fed lifters(if you want it to live on a street car that sees idle): I'm using COMP 888's, ~$500
3/8 pushrods, thick walled: Trend .135s, ~200
Springs: Gonna need a lot of spring pressure to keep an aggressive lobe under control. Put aside $300-500 for a quality spring like COMP or PAC.
Shaftmount rockers: I think the cheapest sets are between $700 and $800 for Probes. Put aside closer to a grand for higher end stuff like jesel.
Now you need to ditch the stock computer for your cam that peaks over 7K...I'm hoping to do a junkyard crank trigger LS computer setup for ~$700.
It adds up fast!!!
Billet SR cam: LE spec'd me a COMP ~$300
Pressure-fed lifters(if you want it to live on a street car that sees idle): I'm using COMP 888's, ~$500
3/8 pushrods, thick walled: Trend .135s, ~200
Springs: Gonna need a lot of spring pressure to keep an aggressive lobe under control. Put aside $300-500 for a quality spring like COMP or PAC.
Shaftmount rockers: I think the cheapest sets are between $700 and $800 for Probes. Put aside closer to a grand for higher end stuff like jesel.
Now you need to ditch the stock computer for your cam that peaks over 7K...I'm hoping to do a junkyard crank trigger LS computer setup for ~$700.
It adds up fast!!!
#17
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yea heres the list i ran........
jesel shaft rockers $900
CP 3/8 1 Piece Pushrod $150
Morel HIPPO Lightweight Lifters $650
PSI Endurance Spring $450 (Been on the car 2+ years now and has over 150 passes on it and they all tested no more than -3lbs seat....basically still like new)
Xceledyne Ti-17 Retainers/Locks $400
Some random Fererra Valves
--- You don't want to know lol
not to mention $2000 on an XFI setup by the time you're done with wiring in order to take the car above 7100......
its a expensive thing but can be done cheaper if you go a bit more mild on ur rpm range.......i wanted to be durable up at the 8000rpm range which was the reason for alot of my parts espically the overkill bottom end i run.......as well as parasitic loss
jesel shaft rockers $900
CP 3/8 1 Piece Pushrod $150
Morel HIPPO Lightweight Lifters $650
PSI Endurance Spring $450 (Been on the car 2+ years now and has over 150 passes on it and they all tested no more than -3lbs seat....basically still like new)
Xceledyne Ti-17 Retainers/Locks $400
Some random Fererra Valves
![Secret2](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/secret.gif)
not to mention $2000 on an XFI setup by the time you're done with wiring in order to take the car above 7100......
its a expensive thing but can be done cheaper if you go a bit more mild on ur rpm range.......i wanted to be durable up at the 8000rpm range which was the reason for alot of my parts espically the overkill bottom end i run.......as well as parasitic loss
#20
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The lifters are what get you money wise. Any decent solid roller lifter will be $500, with some going well over a grand. You have to read up on them too, because some of them are race only and won't have the proper oiling to live on the street.
These are good for LT1 guys:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-888-16/
.300" taller so the link bar clears the valley, and they have the extra oiling groove for street use and low-rpm use.
These are good for LT1 guys:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-888-16/
.300" taller so the link bar clears the valley, and they have the extra oiling groove for street use and low-rpm use.