new pb what to expect now
new pb what to expect now Ran my car in the middle of april and just now posting it.
60' 1.68
1/8 8.05
mph 83.52
1/4 12.75
mph 105.2
i have a ewp im going to install this weekend with similar track conditions would should i expect it to run?
60' 1.68
1/8 8.05
mph 83.52
1/4 12.75
mph 105.2
i have a ewp im going to install this weekend with similar track conditions would should i expect it to run?
Looks like you're hooking up pretty good and the car is making decent power, but I would not expect more than a tenth, if that, from the EWP alone, even in identical conditions. But hey, a tenth is a tenth, right?
i figured a tenth id be happy with that. I still have rr's, ported tb, and under drive pullies (asp balancer) to be considered full bolt ons i guess. hoping to hit mid/low 12's with bolt ons.
Very nice times to start with. By adding the EWP, RRs, TB, and UDPs, you'll be deep in the 7s in the 1/8 and very low 12s in the 1/4. The bolt on record for the 1/8th is 7.43 and you're within amost .5 of that now, and still at full weight. I'd go with 4.10s and weight reduction as well as the above mods. You have a great shot to see 7.70s at full weight and who knows with weight reduction.
This makes me want to go back and actually get my Bolt on car hooking :/
Awesome times for the mods that 1.68 60 is quite impressive on a bolt on car
Couple things that could make that thing a lil quicker (Ls1 lid, Long tubes ,No cats but emissions can take a toll on them 2 , roller rockers) That car can move out pretty good !!
Awesome times for the mods that 1.68 60 is quite impressive on a bolt on car
Couple things that could make that thing a lil quicker (Ls1 lid, Long tubes ,No cats but emissions can take a toll on them 2 , roller rockers) That car can move out pretty good !!
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On The Tree
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
From: Gilbert, Az
Nope...my pb for over a year was 13.3s (with multiple runs all year long)... did the ewp, ac delete & cap/rotor I ran multiple 13.1s. Then I did LCA's and Aluminmun driveshaft and cut to 13.0s-12.9s
I thought about it but i dont have the money for it right now i would drive it there but if it broke down there it would cost to much.
yeah i guess its alright for 190k lol. Im happy with it so far, i kno if i would have done things right like long tubes, ls1 lid it would be alot quicker but in maryland i have to pass a sniffer test.
You will pass the sniffer with the ls1 lid. Long tubes will be a problem for the visual inspection; but a lot of smog guys will look pass that if you have the cats on there. I suspect that stall and 3.73 gearing is helping you a lot; it would be hard to run those times with a stock m6 and gearing.
Are you dead hooking with those DRs? Were you before you did the LCAs?
On The Tree
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
From: Gilbert, Az
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,255
Likes: 11
From: centerville, ohio
There's nothing wrong with the mid-tube and I doubt you would gain from a longtube. I would recommend an X pipe though. Go straight to 1.7's and beehives when you switch rockers.
everything i dont have in your signature i need to have im thinking the asp blancer and alt pulley next would those pullies be a bad idea since my water pump will be electric now? Is your idle raised?
Pulley's don't help as much on our cars because the water pump is cam-driven, NOT by the belt. I suppose if you're interested in a max-effort build and don't mind paying the $$$ for a negligible gain they are worth it, but IMO there is money better spent elsewhere.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,255
Likes: 11
From: centerville, ohio
My idle is stock 600-650, my battery is 10 years old and I've never had an issue, the stall probably helps too. I put the pulleys and ewp on 8 years ago at the same time and you will notice the difference. 10-12 rwhp between the two. That "ASP dampner set" alone has been dyno'ed by two people and both posted a 5 rwhp gain.
its just getting down to the point for making more power i only have roller rockers, pulleys, and throttle body left.