how do you route this wire so it doesnt get burned on the exhaust manifold??

1997 Camaro z28

 

Zip ties and luck.

It's a bitch if you don't have the stock looms. I used zip ties, can't remember exactly how, but I think I got it right up against the motor mount. Both 5 and 7 will get fried if your not careful. I also zip tied them to sway bar near the opti to keep tension on them so they weren't hanging loosely.

 

I routed it underneath the motor mount and with zip ties in the right places it works perfect, burned it a few times before figuring it out and msds arent cheap

 

Is it safe to assume that the stock looms are missing?

 

i believe they are all there. i thought you would put it through the exhaust manifold and head, but i was apparently wrong. i routed it under and around the cat and ziptied it to the motor mount
got my fingers crossed

 

i believe they are all there. i thought you would put it through the exhaust manifold and head, but i was apparently wrong. i routed it under and around the cat and ziptied it to the motor mount
got my fingers crossed

 

The answer is you run it through the stock looms and shielding (since you say they are present).

http://shbox.com/1/left_bank_plug_wires.jpg

 

how do you find that on your website?
i cant ever seem to find those diagrams

 

Are you able to see the picture on the link provided? If so, you'll note that the #7 wire is held in place by the loom adjacent to the #5 cylinder, then goes through what looks like a "tunnel" and comes out just behind cylinder #7. This "tunnel", or shield is held in place by a couple of small bolts. Remove the bolts, route the wire, and then bolt the shield back in place.

 

Because I know where it is!

That one is actually not listed. I probably made it up in the past by someone's request. I'll consider adding it to the list in the component views.

 

... to further add, stock wires or same thickness is all you need. Once you go over 8mm wiring in the stock location is virtually impossible and yields less room to route wires w/out the high risk of them getting burned. No 1/2" top fuel monster cables are necessary.

 

For those of us running long > 8.5 mm wires, route it along the driver's side shock tower, behind the steering column, then onto that pesky plug #7.

(Not the most elegant solution, but I just did not want to play the cut-and-crimp game with a wire that was too long right out of the box.)

 

I agree!

I've been using the Moroso pre-cut, LT1 wires for a LONG time, with no issues, and they come pre-numbered and fit like a glove....

 

Sorry for jumping into an old thread, but I just had to say that Rob's "Left Bank Plug Wires" photo is just what I needed...


The guy who did my valve job might not have run the wires correctly when he was done, and I'd like to know what "correctly" actually is... that photo is the only one I've ever found in all of my searches, and without it I never would have known there was a "tube" for the #7 wire or that two of the connectors have shields... I even have the factory service manual and it says nothing about either of those things...


Rob, any more tips you have would be great... photo of the other side? Which plugs on the right side have shields? Anything special about where the wires go?

 

This is the other side, but doesn't show the plug wires:
http://shbox.com/1/right_bank.jpg

Basically you route them along where the loom is, keeping them close to the block like the other side. There aren't any extra shields like the other side, except for a boot shield on #8. Plug wire #8 does not loop back like #7 does on the other side.

This is the routing from the opti:
http://shbox.com/1/accy_brkt.jpg

 

If you are using the flex plastic tubing over the #7 wire (as stock and in the picture on shoebox site) use the original if still good or get the "high temp" stuff. NOT the cheap stuff typically sold at auto part stores....it will melt

I have always routed plug wires in all factory looms & brackets and 8 mm wires fit with no problem

 

Thanks guys... I feel a lot better knowing what the results are supposed to look like when I'm done... now I just need to find someone with tiny arms to reach in there and do the work!

 

working under the car, I found it easier to drop the bracket off the motor and put the new wires in it then re-install the bracket and then route the individual wires in the plastic looms. The front small bolt does not need to come out on the DS, just loosen as the hole is slotted to slide and then come off over that small bolt

I do the same thing on PS but drop the starter to access the 2 piece bracket and install the wires on bench and put bracket back on and thread wires betwen block and accessory bracket to opti and clip in the wire loom

dialectic grease is your friend on plug wire boots (inside)

 

That makes sense, thanks.

Right now I'm struggling just to get the front bolt loose on the DS bracket" for #7 LOL.

 

just loosen the front DS bolt (small) and remove the rear bolt on the bracket, then slide it about 1/4" forward to slide the bracket off the front bolt

obviously you will have to un-clip the wire looms and unplug wires from Opti but once off you have all 4 plug wires & bracket. Just rebuild on the bench with new wires maintaining same placement on bracket and re-install