kgkern01

iTrader: (10)

So my soft clutch pedal instantly became a very soft pedal with no releasing of the clutch. Replaced the slave because there was some fluid around it, and it was cheap and easy. Same problem, look inside the floorboard to find fluid on the clutch pedal and all over the master cylinder. So I go ahead and replace that too, which was a bitch to do. Now I can't seem to get all of the air out of the system.

Pedal is still soft and it doesn't even have the pressure to snap the plastic straps on the slave to push on the clutch fork. I have tried pulling off the slave, and with the cap off the reservoir pumping the slave to try to force all of the air out. A lot of pressure is on the slave and it is very hard to push in, but once I put it back together and try pushing the clutch pedal, same problem. I have to get this car fixed tonight. Any suggestions to get this thing bled?

GREGG 97Z

iTrader: (4)

You probably need to bench bleed the air out of it, I just did the clutch line drill mod using this guide. Look at figure 22 for info on how to bench bleed the system. That is what I did with mine after I did this mod and my pedal pressure was perfect once finished.

http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...r_cylinder.htm

And yes I realize you have to pull everything back out to do this and it is a pita, lol. I did the same thing when I did mine, thought it was fine when I was done with the mod and reinstalled it all to find I had no pressure. Pulled it all back out and did this step, reinstalled and worked great.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

An LT1 lacks the slave bleeder. So...

Pull the line from the slave. Put a hose snugly over that, run it up and submerge it in the reservoir (use the jmd method for LS1 bleeding for inspiration: https://ls1tech.com/forums/13837919-post3.html ) That will let you bench bleed the master mounted in the firewall.

Then use this to get all air out of the slave:

http://www.ls2.com/forums/showthread.php?t=174146

Then you'll be all set.

kgkern01

iTrader: (10)

Am trying this as soon as I get home. The fact that this simple of a job is taking so long is really irritating me!

kgkern01

iTrader: (10)

Ok, tried bleeding it 3 times, still nothing! Here is what I did:
Filled up the reservoir, pulled off the hose at the slave, plugged the slave and put a clear hose on the end of the clutch hose, with the end in a clear Gatorade bottle with some new brake fluid in the end. Watched the reservoir get low, filled it up to top, and repeated twice.
Then I proceeded to pump the clutch pedal a few times, check the level in the reservoir, then repeat, topping off as needed. When pumping the pedal yielded no more bubbles, I quickly topped the reservoir off again, slid under the car, and quickly put the line back on the slave. Hand pumped the slave in 1" pumps until it got firm, then pumped some more. Reinstalled. No change, still soft pedal and wont release the clutch.

Am I doing something wrong here? This stupid master cylinder cannot be this hard to bleed out...

kgkern01

iTrader: (10)

Screw it, taking the whole assembly off as one piece and going to try to bench bleed the damn thing. FML.

airfix

iTrader: (30)

You shouldn't have too. Un-bolt the slave from the tranny, take off the lid to your master resivoir hand pump the slave a bunch of times, and have a buddy watch the resivoir and the fluid level. Pump until no more bubbles come up @ the resivoir then pump a few more times to be sure. From what i read you did this? i couldn't really understand what you were saying.

kgkern01

iTrader: (10)

Yeah I did that many many times. The air is in the master. I have the master off doing the "JMD" method on the bench, tons of air keeps coming out, after pumping a few times I get a few fine 'carbonation' looking bubbles or finer, let it sit a few min and then an air bubble appears in the tube from the master, hanging at the bottom. Air bubbles keep getting smaller and the master keeps feeling firmer. I hope this works.

Big Al

iTrader: (1)

There's always a chance the new master cylinder is bad.

Al 95 Z28

1badzee

iTrader: (12)

I bought a brand new master and slave cylinder off of rock-auto for like $68 or something. It comes pre-bled. Works great!

kgkern01

iTrader: (10)

Is there a way to check if I have a bad slave or master? A way to test each individually perhaps?
When I push on the new slave, to try to bleed it, I can hear it pushing fluid through, which makes me think that there is air in the line and that I may have gotten a bad slave? I am at a loss here. I don't want to have to spend more $ on a new pre-bled slave/master if I can just take one of these parts back...

kgkern01

iTrader: (10)

I just noticed one site saying that the diaphragm and lid have to be on the reservoir to bleed the slave. Is this true, or will the slave bleed with the reservoir lid off?

kgkern01

iTrader: (10)

So I tried bleeding the slave. Again. No change. I decided to hook everything back up, with the aluminum cover for the slave off, I hooked the slave up to the exact point that the aluminum cover would stop it at, and observed the fork movement.

With the pedal up, the clutch fork is at the same position as it was without the slave, about flush with the opening. With the pedal held down, it does move the fork in, but only by about the amount that the straps would begin to stretch at. So there is movement, just not enough to disengage the clutch. T-bolt is still fully bolted down from what it looks like. Any opinions? Should I try getting a new master cylinder (I have the receipt) and trying that before pulling the trans?

Getting under the car with the engine running, both with clutch pedal in and out, no strange noises coming from the clutch that I could hear. Revving the car slowly up to 5k RPM yields no vibrations that feel like a broken spring or anything...

kgkern01

iTrader: (10)

Anyone?

BackInBlack02

iTrader: (4)

Try this, it worked for me.

fill resevoir, leave cap off, unbolt the slave from the M6 and let it hang down. The air will travel up and self bleed. About an hour should do, then bolt slave back to M6, check resevoir and test drive.

Got the tip from the Mcleod shop and it worked for me.

GL

kgkern01

iTrader: (10)

Thanks for the tip. I tried that for about an hour, I'm going to try it again for a whole day, see if anything happens.

2manycamaros

make sure the fork is still slid in all the way to the throwout i missed that part once in a rush lol

also i had another problem like that two when i put a new slave on. i think i left the line loose so the fluid would drip out at the bottom of it once it started dripping i tightened it and hand pumped the slave till it was solid this was about 3 years ago so i cant remember for sure

good luck man

Big Al

iTrader: (1)

Did you get the air out yet?

Al 95 Z28

kgkern01

iTrader: (10)

Haven't touched it in 2 days, going to have a local performance shop take a look at it today, I'll post back.

kgkern01

iTrader: (10)

Pulled the transmission, one of the springs in the clutch disc blew out. Pressure plate and flywheel still look ok, no visible damage or even bad wear. Going to have a local clutch shop make me a new disc.