forged or not
forged or not First of all Id like to thank everyone for all the advice this week. You guys are great.
Ive figured out im either going with a forged stroker with AI or AFR heads or rebuilding my stock lt1 and adding a good cam and AI heads. If I rebuild my engine with just heads cam and ported intake it sounds like im looking max low 400s at the wheels. Im fine with that, but is forged needed at that sort of hp and torque? I dont want to build this and have it blow up on me, but at the same time if they really arent needed, that frees up a lot of money for leather interior or college ect. I know its always better to over build but i dont want to waste a couple grand either. Any advice?
Ive figured out im either going with a forged stroker with AI or AFR heads or rebuilding my stock lt1 and adding a good cam and AI heads. If I rebuild my engine with just heads cam and ported intake it sounds like im looking max low 400s at the wheels. Im fine with that, but is forged needed at that sort of hp and torque? I dont want to build this and have it blow up on me, but at the same time if they really arent needed, that frees up a lot of money for leather interior or college ect. I know its always better to over build but i dont want to waste a couple grand either. Any advice?
If the budget is there look at the Compstar rods/Mahle piston kit AI offers and you can reuse your stock crank. At that hp level though a lot of us have been fine with a stock shortblock in good condition.
Launching!
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 212
Likes: 0
From: Glen Burnie MD
I'm actually thinking about building the same setup, my thing is i'd rather save up a little more and go fully forged cause if i ever decide to go forced induction later down the road I'll be set. Then ill just have to change out pistons, but if you wanna stay all motor it should be fine.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,157
Likes: 1
From: Kingfisher Oklahoma
A set of 4340 steel rods are in the 200$ range so there is no reason to run remanned stock rods. If you buy pistons make sure the rings are the size of the stock LT1s (as in thickness not dia) or 1/16,1/16,3/16. Do not run a thicker ring like the 5/64th the difference in friction is amazing. (friction = power loss)
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: Texas
For my first build I used forged pistons and used cast iron rods and crank. I was expecting to use some nitrous though. The stock bottom end should be ok for 400hp, but make sure a machinist inspects the rotating assembly and re-balances it before you put it back in the car with new bearings and piston rings. Good luck.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,157
Likes: 1
From: Kingfisher Oklahoma
For my first build I used forged pistons and used cast iron rods and crank. I was expecting to use some nitrous though. The stock bottom end should be ok for 400hp, but make sure a machinist inspects the rotating assembly and re-balances it before you put it back in the car with new bearings and piston rings. Good luck.
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Verdad Gallardo Thanks for all the info. So what you are saying is that my stock rods are better than a new set of cast eagle rods? so if im going to change either go forged or keep what i got.
that stock bottom end with a good set of rod bolts will handle quite a bit.........i wouldn't be afraid of it........i ran a stock rod/ stock crank combo over 500hp with 6800-7000rpm shifts for three years almost every weekend with no issues at all.........built correctly they will stay together..... and you're dealing with the right company my 355 im speakin of with an AI HR cam and out of the box trickflows and a AI ported intake ran 11.40 @ 122 at 3450lbs NA...
good luck!!!
good luck!!!
A set of 4340 steel rods are in the 200$ range so there is no reason to run remanned stock rods. If you buy pistons make sure the rings are the size of the stock LT1s (as in thickness not dia) or 1/16,1/16,3/16. Do not run a thicker ring like the 5/64th the difference in friction is amazing. (friction = power loss)