96 Z28 (LT1) Overheating
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96 Z28 (LT1) Overheating
Hi Everyone
I'm having a problem with my cooling system on my Camaro...It recently started overheating so I changed the T-Stat and Radiator cap....I bypassed the heater core months ago so there is only one bleeder valve. I opened the Valve and then put Dex-cool in the radiator until it was full and I could see coolant coming out of the valve. I put the cap on the Radiator, started the car and then closed the bleeder valve. The temp runs normal for a while and then it starts to fluctuate, Especially if I have to stop and idle, Then eventually coolant boils out of the reservoir and I have to put more in...How can I figure out if air is still in the system? Thanks in advance for taking the time to help.
I'm having a problem with my cooling system on my Camaro...It recently started overheating so I changed the T-Stat and Radiator cap....I bypassed the heater core months ago so there is only one bleeder valve. I opened the Valve and then put Dex-cool in the radiator until it was full and I could see coolant coming out of the valve. I put the cap on the Radiator, started the car and then closed the bleeder valve. The temp runs normal for a while and then it starts to fluctuate, Especially if I have to stop and idle, Then eventually coolant boils out of the reservoir and I have to put more in...How can I figure out if air is still in the system? Thanks in advance for taking the time to help.
#2
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When you see coolant coming out the bleeder then all the air should be out. You should start the engine and let it run until the thermostat opens up...about 180ish if stock then open the bleeder...also keep the cap off until the radiator is filled. You might want to post this in the LT1 section for more responses.
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Thanks, I will check if the fans are coming on...I just noticed a small crack in the radiator about 2 inches below the cap, Shieza!! I wonder if Liquid Glass would seal that up!?!?!?
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#8
Not the cause of your problem at all, but I would get rid of that Dex-cool crap. I've seen what it can do inside the cooling system, and I'll never touch that crap again.
I HAVE used JB weld in the past to seal a radiator crack from the outside. That was on my Old Cadillac Eldorado. It works as a temporary solution, but I daresay it would never have busted a leak there again.
I HAVE used JB weld in the past to seal a radiator crack from the outside. That was on my Old Cadillac Eldorado. It works as a temporary solution, but I daresay it would never have busted a leak there again.
#9
I had the same problem.Changed the t state to a 160,set fan's to come on at start up,one bottle of red line additive to the rad now it does'nt get over 190~200 hope this help's
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Thanks for all the advice/help guys If I remember right, one fan kicks on when the A/c is on and the other when the temp is around 190 right? I think the water pump is leaking as well...everything runs great and normal for about 15 minutes and then the pressure builds and air pushes out of the leak on the radiator...I took the gasket off of the old t-stat and took the new t-stat out, put just the gasket back in but it still overheats...I am not sure if the gasket is sealing properly without the t-stat...I think I am going to take it to a mechanic before I mess it up...
#11
the first fan does not kick on til 226... the second fan i believe is 230 or when the ac is on.. the cars run real hot. if the water pump is leaking that could be your source for overheating right there.
and you just changed the tstat gasket? its just a rubber seal right? it should go in pretty easy and then just tighten it back up. if the housing is not leaking you got it back in correctly
and you just changed the tstat gasket? its just a rubber seal right? it should go in pretty easy and then just tighten it back up. if the housing is not leaking you got it back in correctly
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It's the original w/p, just turned 100k miles on the odometer...Your probably right, water is dripping from the bottom of The Water Pump...then pressure builds up and pushing out through the crack in the radiator. The water is flowing good when the temp is normal so I know the pump is working, for now anyways...
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It's the original w/p, just turned 100k miles on the odometer...Your probably right, water is dripping from the bottom of The Water Pump...then pressure builds up and pushing out through the crack in the radiator. The water is flowing good when the temp is normal so I know the pump is working, for now anyways...
good luck
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I opened the bleeder valve and added water until it poured out of the valve, I thought that meant the air was out...I am taking it in to the shop tomorrow Thanks for all the help, you guys Rock!
#19
I had to bleed mine a couple times! After running for a couple mins the air would work its way to the top, and id have to let the screw out a bit until coolant came back out. Had to do it a couple times.
Also ive never had a problem with dex-cool?
Also ive never had a problem with dex-cool?