LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

96 Z28 (LT1) Overheating

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Old 06-15-2011, 03:47 PM
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Default 96 Z28 (LT1) Overheating

Hi Everyone

I'm having a problem with my cooling system on my Camaro...It recently started overheating so I changed the T-Stat and Radiator cap....I bypassed the heater core months ago so there is only one bleeder valve. I opened the Valve and then put Dex-cool in the radiator until it was full and I could see coolant coming out of the valve. I put the cap on the Radiator, started the car and then closed the bleeder valve. The temp runs normal for a while and then it starts to fluctuate, Especially if I have to stop and idle, Then eventually coolant boils out of the reservoir and I have to put more in...How can I figure out if air is still in the system? Thanks in advance for taking the time to help.
Old 06-15-2011, 04:21 PM
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When you see coolant coming out the bleeder then all the air should be out. You should start the engine and let it run until the thermostat opens up...about 180ish if stock then open the bleeder...also keep the cap off until the radiator is filled. You might want to post this in the LT1 section for more responses.
Old 06-15-2011, 05:09 PM
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Thanks For Your help, I will try it...
Old 06-15-2011, 05:14 PM
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fans working?
Old 06-15-2011, 05:16 PM
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Check to see if your fans are coming on. Maybe have them programmed to come on sooner or get a manual fan switch.
Old 06-15-2011, 05:28 PM
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Thanks, I will check if the fans are coming on...I just noticed a small crack in the radiator about 2 inches below the cap, Shieza!! I wonder if Liquid Glass would seal that up!?!?!?
Old 06-15-2011, 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by BowtieGirlZ28
Thanks, I will check if the fans are coming on...I just noticed a small crack in the radiator about 2 inches below the cap, Shieza!! I wonder if Liquid Glass would seal that up!?!?!?
It is very common for them to crack there, mine just did that at the beginning of the year.
Old 06-15-2011, 08:06 PM
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Not the cause of your problem at all, but I would get rid of that Dex-cool crap. I've seen what it can do inside the cooling system, and I'll never touch that crap again.

I HAVE used JB weld in the past to seal a radiator crack from the outside. That was on my Old Cadillac Eldorado. It works as a temporary solution, but I daresay it would never have busted a leak there again.
Old 06-15-2011, 09:48 PM
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I had the same problem.Changed the t state to a 160,set fan's to come on at start up,one bottle of red line additive to the rad now it does'nt get over 190~200 hope this help's
Old 06-16-2011, 09:24 AM
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Thanks for all the advice/help guys If I remember right, one fan kicks on when the A/c is on and the other when the temp is around 190 right? I think the water pump is leaking as well...everything runs great and normal for about 15 minutes and then the pressure builds and air pushes out of the leak on the radiator...I took the gasket off of the old t-stat and took the new t-stat out, put just the gasket back in but it still overheats...I am not sure if the gasket is sealing properly without the t-stat...I think I am going to take it to a mechanic before I mess it up...
Old 06-16-2011, 01:08 PM
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the first fan does not kick on til 226... the second fan i believe is 230 or when the ac is on.. the cars run real hot. if the water pump is leaking that could be your source for overheating right there.

and you just changed the tstat gasket? its just a rubber seal right? it should go in pretty easy and then just tighten it back up. if the housing is not leaking you got it back in correctly
Old 06-16-2011, 01:24 PM
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if the water pump is leaking its very possible that it could possibly cause an issue if the coolant level is dropping.........how about the water pump itself though?? im leaning towards a problem with the pump internals........how old is the pump?
Old 06-16-2011, 02:49 PM
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It's the original w/p, just turned 100k miles on the odometer...Your probably right, water is dripping from the bottom of The Water Pump...then pressure builds up and pushing out through the crack in the radiator. The water is flowing good when the temp is normal so I know the pump is working, for now anyways...
Old 06-16-2011, 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by BowtieGirlZ28
It's the original w/p, just turned 100k miles on the odometer...Your probably right, water is dripping from the bottom of The Water Pump...then pressure builds up and pushing out through the crack in the radiator. The water is flowing good when the temp is normal so I know the pump is working, for now anyways...
well........a replacement radiator isn't too bad from a local parts store......and water pump gaskets are about $6 just takes some work to do............for a couple hundred bucks you can prob get it all straightened out.........

good luck
Old 06-16-2011, 03:03 PM
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Certainly want to replace that radiator before it leaves you stranded.
Old 06-16-2011, 03:19 PM
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Did you drain your coolant? Could be air in the system. Also that cap is not helping anything lol. You can buy water pumps relatively cheap and its good insurance.
Old 06-16-2011, 06:26 PM
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I opened the bleeder valve and added water until it poured out of the valve, I thought that meant the air was out...I am taking it in to the shop tomorrow Thanks for all the help, you guys Rock!
Old 06-16-2011, 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by BowtieGirlZ28
I opened the bleeder valve and added water until it poured out of the valve, I thought that meant the air was out...I am taking it in to the shop tomorrow Thanks for all the help, you guys Rock!
that does mean all the air is out lol
Old 06-16-2011, 09:39 PM
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I had to bleed mine a couple times! After running for a couple mins the air would work its way to the top, and id have to let the screw out a bit until coolant came back out. Had to do it a couple times.

Also ive never had a problem with dex-cool?
Old 06-16-2011, 10:27 PM
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Im on the water pump
Or the coupler sleeve that goes behind the water pump


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