ARP Rod Bolts Without Resizing Rods
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,046
Likes: 2
From: Massachusetts
ARP Rod Bolts Without Resizing Rods I've read what feels like a million threads about changing rod bolts. I know best practice is to have rods resized after new bolts. So we don't need to beat a dead horse with that discussion. What I would like to know is who has successfully changed stock rod bolts for ARP without having the rods resized?
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On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 158
Likes: 1
I put ARP2000's in my rods with no issues. But I haven't spun it past 6500, nor will I.
Technically, you can't resize the LS1 cracked cap rods. You can only give them a light hone and hope you don't end up being oversize, sacrificing bearing crush.
People say to recon sbc rods as well, but I had no issues pounding in a set of Wave locks in stock rods and carrying on recklessly.
Just don't put them in and then expect to immediately take your engine to 7500+. That's the majority of the problem people see and post about.
When you overspeed the rods, the big end gets pulled into an oval. No rod bolts or reconditioning will prevent this. The sides of the rod bearings get pinched into the journal, the oil film is broken and voila, spun bearing.
I'd put in a set of Clevite bearings with a higher crush and a medium to high eccentricity while you're doing the bolts to protect against this if you're bent (pun intended) on high rpm's.
http://www.jegs.com/p/Clevite/Clevit...44634/10002/-1
Technically, you can't resize the LS1 cracked cap rods. You can only give them a light hone and hope you don't end up being oversize, sacrificing bearing crush.
People say to recon sbc rods as well, but I had no issues pounding in a set of Wave locks in stock rods and carrying on recklessly.
Just don't put them in and then expect to immediately take your engine to 7500+. That's the majority of the problem people see and post about.
When you overspeed the rods, the big end gets pulled into an oval. No rod bolts or reconditioning will prevent this. The sides of the rod bearings get pinched into the journal, the oil film is broken and voila, spun bearing.
I'd put in a set of Clevite bearings with a higher crush and a medium to high eccentricity while you're doing the bolts to protect against this if you're bent (pun intended) on high rpm's.
http://www.jegs.com/p/Clevite/Clevit...44634/10002/-1
Last edited by Monzsta; Jun 17, 2011 at 11:43 AM.
If you dont spin a stock bottom end past 6500 is there that much of a need to replace the stock rod bolts? I had considered replacing my rod bolt with ARP's the next time I had the motor out, I didnt realize the rods would need to be resized to do this. I'll probably just stick with stock bolts until I need to rebuild the bottom end if thats the case.
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,046
Likes: 2
From: Massachusetts
Awesome, glad to hear your happy with the purchase. I wish I could've kept it but I want to run stock wheels on my Firehawk racecar.
Rule of thumb. If you replace rod bolts you must re-size the rod. Even if you drive a bolt out and put it back in, have it re-sized. And, you're right. LS rods are fractured and can't be re-sized. You can replace the rod bolts and not re-size them and you can put water in your tires instead of air, but it's not the correct thing to do.
Al
Al
