Passed Test #1....I dont hear any High RPM Breakup!!!! VIDEO
06-24-2011, 12:46 PM
#21
Its not just this forum, the I beam vs H beam thing has been heavily debated all over the place for a long time. And if you think what I came up with is bs all one has to do us a little research. The only place is wrong is the fa t that it depends on the mfg of the rod as to which is heavier. Saying that an H beam is always going to be heavier simply by design is WRONG. callies proves that.
its also no surprise that a high end Oliver I beam like yours is lighter than a cheap eagle h beam... part of what you pay for.
There's also lots of research out there about one design compared to another and their ability to better seal with compressive vs tensile loads. Example if you're building a FI or nitrous build you may favor a heavier H beam style rod to deal with the higher cylinder pressure. Whereas a max effort N/A deal with a lot of RPMS a light weight I beam will be better suited. Just one broad example of how it can vary depending on application.
But I digress, we can't all be as smart as you guys
its also no surprise that a high end Oliver I beam like yours is lighter than a cheap eagle h beam... part of what you pay for.
There's also lots of research out there about one design compared to another and their ability to better seal with compressive vs tensile loads. Example if you're building a FI or nitrous build you may favor a heavier H beam style rod to deal with the higher cylinder pressure. Whereas a max effort N/A deal with a lot of RPMS a light weight I beam will be better suited. Just one broad example of how it can vary depending on application.
But I digress, we can't all be as smart as you guys
06-24-2011, 07:35 PM
#23
Its not just this forum, the I beam vs H beam thing has been heavily debated all over the place for a long time. And if you think what I came up with is bs all one has to do us a little research. The only place is wrong is the fa t that it depends on the mfg of the rod as to which is heavier.
But I digress, we can't all be as smart as you guys
But I digress, we can't all be as smart as you guys
06-24-2011, 08:39 PM
#24
I had a smaller 1 3/4 to 3" hooker super comp on it last year but this year i stepped up to a hedman 1 7/8 to 3.5" header.......i can feel the car is stronger even with the exhaust on........it should hopefully pull really well with the exhaust off and after i get the open exhaust tune dialed in.......i may also build a 3.5" x pipe for it to try and get some extra mid range out of it to help get it out of the hole and 330' better......its got plenty of top end grunt......i can sacrafice a bit for midrange 6000rpm torque to get the et down........
OT--how did those headers fit? My new heads have the standard bolt pattern, I could have sworn the Huslers run the Stahl pattern, but i'm not positive. If so, did you just run those adapter plates, and did you have to do any clearancing on the steering shaft? I see horror story after horror story about the Kooks fitment.
06-24-2011, 10:18 PM
#25
I had a smaller 1 3/4 to 3" hooker super comp on it last year but this year i stepped up to a hedman 1 7/8 to 3.5" header.......i can feel the car is stronger even with the exhaust on........it should hopefully pull really well with the exhaust off and after i get the open exhaust tune dialed in.......i may also build a 3.5" x pipe for it to try and get some extra mid range out of it to help get it out of the hole and 330' better......its got plenty of top end grunt......i can sacrafice a bit for midrange 6000rpm torque to get the et down........
06-25-2011, 01:19 AM
#26
thanks everybody I'm heading up the track sunday so hopefully if everything stays happy i can finally start to get some numbers outta this thing!!!
thanks!! and yes they are a stahl patter vs standard..... i tossed the steel boat anchor plates they gave me and made my own aluminum plates on the cnc at my work.......as for the steering shaft it was an absolute nightmare........in the end in wound up cutting off the number 1 tube and re routing it around the shaft
Car sounds badass!!!!!!!!!
OT--how did those headers fit? My new heads have the standard bolt pattern, I could have sworn the Huslers run the Stahl pattern, but i'm not positive. If so, did you just run those adapter plates, and did you have to do any clearancing on the steering shaft? I see horror story after horror story about the Kooks fitment.
OT--how did those headers fit? My new heads have the standard bolt pattern, I could have sworn the Huslers run the Stahl pattern, but i'm not positive. If so, did you just run those adapter plates, and did you have to do any clearancing on the steering shaft? I see horror story after horror story about the Kooks fitment.
06-26-2011, 05:20 PM
#29
From what I understand... a 1.75>1.875 tuned primary with a GOOD 3.5" merge collector (tuned 2nd harmonic ~15-16" on a 7500rpm motor) and you'll be farther ahead. Pulse tuning with smaller primaries will give you gains in the midrange and again up top. It's not necessarily in everyone's budget or ability to do. I'm within 1/2" on my primaries and 1/8" on my collector lengths and I'm confident it will provide good gains. I dropped ~6 degrees of overlap (@.050, even more seated) on the new cam to compensate (ECL from 105>112). I don't think with a 5000+ converter you'll notice the midrange much, but if you're going custom why not do it right 
06-27-2011, 07:50 AM
#30
From what I understand... a 1.75>1.875 tuned primary with a GOOD 3.5" merge collector (tuned 2nd harmonic ~15-16" on a 7500rpm motor) and you'll be farther ahead. Pulse tuning with smaller primaries will give you gains in the midrange and again up top. It's not necessarily in everyone's budget or ability to do. I'm within 1/2" on my primaries and 1/8" on my collector lengths and I'm confident it will provide good gains. I dropped ~6 degrees of overlap (@.050, even more seated) on the new cam to compensate (ECL from 105>112). I don't think with a 5000+ converter you'll notice the midrange much, but if you're going custom why not do it right
