gmpp head bolt history?
#21
That's MISTER MODERATOR
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Bolts/studs will leak if you use the wrong thread sealant. Do NOT use a thread sealer with a moly or Teflon lube-it can wash away. Use a sticky goopy gasket sealant without any type of lubricant in it.
I respectfully disagree about using studs in a block honed with bolts. The resultant tug on the deck, clamping force on the head and cylinder distortion will be identical.
It makes no difference to block distortion as to which was used to hone then assemble the engine.
Studs are a better fastening method because you're using fine threads on a nut with the block end of the stud fully engaged in the block rather than a course thread bolt not fully engaged. Your torquing measurements will be more accurate.
I respectfully disagree about using studs in a block honed with bolts. The resultant tug on the deck, clamping force on the head and cylinder distortion will be identical.
It makes no difference to block distortion as to which was used to hone then assemble the engine.
Studs are a better fastening method because you're using fine threads on a nut with the block end of the stud fully engaged in the block rather than a course thread bolt not fully engaged. Your torquing measurements will be more accurate.
Last edited by Paul Bell; 06-30-2011 at 07:39 PM.
#23
That's MISTER MODERATOR
iTrader: (9)
Agreed, they are overkill for most applications.
I however, will use them at every opportunity.
A disclaimer: Coating head bolts/studs with sealant pertains to fasteners that are going to be exposed to coolant such as in small/big block Chevy engines. Head bolts for LS engines MUST BE DRY as should be the blind hole they thread into. Any amount of liquids of any type will in all likelihood result in a terminally cracked engine block and epic failure/head banging on the nearest wall.
I however, will use them at every opportunity.
A disclaimer: Coating head bolts/studs with sealant pertains to fasteners that are going to be exposed to coolant such as in small/big block Chevy engines. Head bolts for LS engines MUST BE DRY as should be the blind hole they thread into. Any amount of liquids of any type will in all likelihood result in a terminally cracked engine block and epic failure/head banging on the nearest wall.
#26
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I had the same problem. I bought a set and was trying to torque them down, and they would just turn. I found out they are 2 thousands of a inch smaller in diameter, then the head bolts that came out of my car. I kinda wrote it off, but if you and I contact gmpartsdirect, maybe they will see it is a problem on their part, and refund us our money. I only did one side, and did not even torque 3 bolts. Just let me know if you are interested in perusing this.
tia
andy schuck
tia
andy schuck
#27
TECH Veteran
I had the same problem. I bought a set and was trying to torque them down, and they would just turn. I found out they are 2 thousands of a inch smaller in diameter, then the head bolts that came out of my car. I kinda wrote it off, but if you and I contact gmpartsdirect, maybe they will see it is a problem on their part, and refund us our money. I only did one side, and did not even torque 3 bolts. Just let me know if you are interested in perusing this.
tia
andy schuck
tia
andy schuck
#28
Staging Lane
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they're obviously the wrong product for the job if they're tty. they shouldn't even be for sale for the sbc or LT1
Andy, how should we go about persuing ther problem?
Andy, how should we go about persuing ther problem?
Last edited by diablizzard; 07-01-2011 at 07:57 AM.