Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

I'm going to be starting on a motor this winter if all goes well and it will be boosted, I'm just not sure if it will be a procharger or a turbo at this point.

I want to do a forged 355 or 383
Callies Dragon Slayer Crank
Compstar 6" Rods
Callies Splayed Main Caps
ARP Studs Everywhere
Custom Hyd. Roller (From Head Ported)
LS7 Lifters
Ported Trickflows (LE or AI)
8.5-9:1 Compression Forged Pistons (JE or Diamond)
Single Plane (Vic Jr or Super Vic)
LS1 Throttle Body or AS&M Mono Blade
Wilson or 860 Elbow (depending on TB)
Twin In Tank Fuel Pumps w/Hobbs Switch (I have 255 Racetronix w/hotwire kit installed)
High Imp. Injectors (85#??)
-8 Feed, -6 return (Stock lines were rusted and replaced with -6 feed and return)
Moroso 7 Qt Pan (already installed)
EFI 24x Kit (w/High Imp Injector Wiring??)
CSR EWP (already Installed)
1 3/4-1 7/8" Stepped Stainless Headers (already installed)
3" True Duals w/3" X-Pipe, Magnaflow Magnapacks (already installed)
FMIC w/Modified Bumper Cover for More Airflow
And more, help me make the list

TDP M6 (will be built this winter)
Twin Disk (any lighter options than the Mcleod??)
McLeod Shatter Proof Bellhousing (will be installed this winter)
8.8 Rear w/4.10s & Girdle, will get lower gears with boost added (already installed)
Full Suspension UMI K Member, UMI Chromoly Lower A Arms, Stock Uppers for Now, MWC Watts Link, UMI 3 point SFCs, UMI Adj LCAs, Adj 4 Link (built by me), LS1 Spindles & Brakes, Cobra Mustang Rear Brakes, Black ZR1s w/DD On Rear, Nitto NT555 313/35/17 On All 4 Corners
Wolfe 6 Point Roll Bar (will be installed this winter)
Stand Up Radiator w/Twin Fans (either way I boost it)

I'm not building a drag car, or a street racer, just a fast street car. Its not a DD and it doesn't have to pass inspection, and my defination of a street car is pretty loose. I know its not needed, but between all of my buddies we have friendly completions and I like being the fastest. And my brother is building a 3000 # turbo S10 soon

I would like to end up in the 700+ rwhp range and for that reason I'm thinking turbo would be the best solution. I know there are a handful of guys running procharger setups that are making big power too. I can't make up my mind on which one I want to build.

I thought about swapping to an LS motor, but I just can't do it, I want to stay LT1 and build a badass motor.


I'm looking for some pointers and if you were to do it over how would you build your boosted setup?? I know if I had to build my car over again it would be 100% different, but thats the learning curve. And my dad has always said that hind site is 20/20

ahritchie

iTrader: (1)

You forgot to mention the most important thing....BUDGET! Turbo setups aren't cheap, might be simpler/easier for the procharger...but turbo's do kick ***...gotta love the blow-off valve hissing and the sound of it spooling up. Good luck either way.

96TransAmboosted

iTrader: (8)

700 hp on a procharger is going to be putting a lot of stress on the crank, i know you mentioned a callies crank but still a lot of extra stress, and a lot of guys are selling complete sts turbo kits for around 2000-2500 that might need a turbo rebuilt. that gives you the option to upgrade or get a better one for your set up. i loved the procharges back in the day but ever since my last turbo car i would never go back to a charger again. but that my opinion. i would suggest JE pistons they have worked great in the past and present for me and others i know.

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

I'm not going to put a price tag on this build. I have done that in the past and this time around I plan on building what I want and build it over a year or 2 to get exactly what I want. I know I could say that I'm going to spend $10k on the setup, but in the end it will probably be more than that all said and done

I'm really leaning towards the turbo setup and have been thinking about ordering a setup from lt1boost dot net but the more I think about it the more I want to build my own setup. I do all of my own welding, I'm planning on buying a Tig welder this winter and learn how to do that.

If I were to do the procharger I was going to get the F1a and do a FMIC, but if I go turbo how big should I go? I was thinking like a 76 or so, maybe an 88 but I think thats too big for a 355.

And I won't do a rear mount, sorry just not my thing. The turbo will be a front mount with an intercooler hiding behind the bumper cover.


I know that either way its going to be expensive, but I already have a ton of money sunk into my car and its not going anywhere....EVER. The procharger may seem cheaper, but in the long run I think that they will end up being within $500.

So right now I'm leaning back towards turbo.....but that seems to change month to month haha

coolmanvette75

iTrader: (2)

Hmm I would go 383 and do something similar to this

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4DGmn..._order&list=UL

Sc0tt30

iTrader: (6)

This is similar to what i am currently doing. I am doing a 383 with a F1A. Using a callies crank, compstar rods and diamond pistons.

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Now that is badass, but my loose term of a street car is a little tighter than that haha. And I want to stay 355, but 383 isn't out of the question. And the turbo inlet hanging out the front of the car just won't work for me, I get caught in the rain from time to time.

What are your goals for the setup? And any more specs? PM me if you would prefer that method.


I'm just trying to gather ideas, I would like to go procharger and be part of the 1%ers but I know that theres a reason that most guys are going turbo. And I know my goal of making 700rwhp will be easier with a turbo vs the procharger since it does take some power to run the blower.

Blackbirdws6

iTrader: (7)

Sounds like you are on the right track but be sure to account for all of the little things. Feel free to check out my blower build thread for the parts I used and some of the issues I ran into. Turbo over blower was a tough call but I chose blower simply because I do not have the resources to readily modify pipes, connections, etc.

I'm running 21 deg Trickflow heads worked over by LE along with a pretty tame blower cam. I wanted very good driveability and big power when I got into it. I also really like the progressive feel of a centrifugal blower. The power band is very linear and you can check out the graphs and vids in the thread I already mentioned. The Procharger kit isn't perfect but its working well for me.

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Thanks, I'm having a very tough time trying to decide which way I want to go. And I know once I make a decision I'm going to wish I would have went the other way. But its going to be a little while before I take the plunge with the blower, but I can build the bottom end and make my decision from there.

I heard that the ATI kits eat belts until the alignment is absolutely perfect and then the factory tensioner doesn't work very well and a spring tensioner is a needed upgrade.

Thanks for the info, I'll check out your thread

NoMoreLS1

iTrader: (65)

You are going to spend way more than $10,000 if you plan on doing things the right way. Do it right the first time and spend a more now. In the long run, it will be less expensive. I am using the ATI belt tensioner system with a 12 rib belt. Never had one problem with it after several years. I still peg the boost gauge. This was tuned on 100 octane unleaded racing gas. I run 93 octane on the street most of the time.

Here is a list of the upgrades for my car...

771 rear wheel horsepower and 682 rear wheel torque

Accessible Technologies ProCharger F1 supercharger (22 psi)

Custom Griffin front mount intercooler

Custom 3 inch intercooler tubing and induction tubing by D&A Old School Automotive

388 cubic inch stroker LT1 with 8.8:1 compression ratio by Midwest Engine Tech

Canton oil pan

O-ringed block with SCE head gaskets

ARP fasteners

JE custom blower pistons

Comp Comps valve train assembly with custom grind blower cam

Eagle forged crankshaft

Eagle forged h-beam connecting rods

GM Performance Parts Extreme Duty timing chain set

ATI balancer with custom fabricated billet dual keyed hub assembly

Accel small block Chevy fuel injection intake manifold (modified for LT1)

Holley 95 mm throttle body

Holley 85 lbs fuel injectors

Lonnie’s Performance twin Walbro 340 fuel pump system

Accel 300 plus ignition box

MSD ignition coil

MSD spark plug wires

NGK R5724-8 spark plugs

F.A.S.T. engine management system

Fluidyne aluminum radiator

Spal dual electric fans

Hypertech 160 degree thermostat

Dynatech prototype 1 ¾ inch long tube headers

Custom 3 inch y-pipe by D&A Old School Automotive

Mufflex 4 inch cat back with dual 3 inch outlet Spintech muffler

Cone Engineering (Megs) stainless steel dual outlet exhaust tips

Extreme Duty T-56 by Finish Line Transmission

Pro 5.0 billet short throw shifter

McLeod twin disc clutch

Midwest Driveshaft chrome moly 3 ½ inch driveshaft

Sc0tt30

iTrader: (6)

My goal is around 650+ rwhp. I currently have a NA 383 so i am mainly upgrading the rotating assembly, callies dragonslayer, compstar 6.0 I beams, diamond pistons, hellfire rings, and heads. I am going to go with LE Trickflow heads and one of his cams. I have all aftermarket suspension already and a Dana S60 already. I am going to keep my Spec Stage 3 until it goes out and then go with a McLeod Street Twin. I already have a -8AN feed and -6AN return for my fuel lines. I will have to upgrade to different injectors and adding another Walbro pump as i have one already in the tank. I use LS7 lifters which i will most likely keep using. I am changing over to heads studs. Already have a ATI balancer and will continue to use it. I know i am leaving somethings out just can't think of them at the moment.

Scott

Sc0tt30

iTrader: (6)

I have read over your threads a couple times and its pretty detailed and the car looks great and great job on it.

Are you running a intercooler along with the meth?

Z28Roxy

iTrader: (4)

Splayed 4 bolt mains sounds good, but a half filled block for a street car? You know that will hurt your ability to cool the engine right?
Callies is good for a crank
Compstar good for rods
Main caps - pro-gram and callies make good ones
Solid Roller - not ideal for a street car. Go hydraulic roller. I went with kind of a baby cam, you might want to go bigger. But solid roller is excessive.
Lifters - If you go hydraulic roller, caddies or LS7.
Ported trickflows - sure. Just make sure you get heads that will drop your compression. I kind of wish I went with AFRs for my build, but oh well.
Pistons - if you're piecing together your rotating assembly, JE -31ccs are often used.
Single plane - excessive. Ported stocker would be fine.
LS1 TB or Monoblade - probably also excessive and unneeded fabrication, but more power to you.
Twin in take pumps - good
Lines - good, but your stockers might be ok for what you're doing
Moroso 7 qt pan - good
EFI 24x kit - not experienced / haven't researched this
CSR EWP - sure. I prefer Meziere but CSR is good too

TPD M6 - sure
Clutch - Mcleod Street twin
Mcleod Scattershield - good idea. You don't want to break or lose a foot
8.8 Rear - if that's what you got already, sure. If you still have your stock setup, go with a strange 12 bolt or dana s60 imo. No fab work is nice. Also, 3.42s or 3.54s with boost.
Full suspension - yep
Wolf 6 point roll bar - yep




What else you need:

Good high imp injectors. 60lb/hr at minimum. I would go higher.
Ignition box
If you're going turbo, you'll definitely want a tubular kmember. You'll want it with a supercharger too
If you're going supercharged, you'll need a keyed (advise double keyed) crank hub / crank snout
SFI rated damper

SRZ

iTrader: (14)

As long as the belt alignment is perfect, you'll have no problem whatsoever. As for turbo's, yeah they're the heat, literally. LOL I like Blackbird love the linear curve of the ProCharger. Getting hit w/ gobs of boost down low w/ a turbo takes some skill and getting used to unless you're running a eboost system. Either way you'll hit 700rwhp if done correctly. My next project car will be a single 88mm as I'm shooting for a more quiet approach and have one of each. I LOVE my F1 and big red BPV. Scares little kids where ever I go. But I like a suttle approach too.

Only thing I'd change is not going w/ hardblock. GL on what ever you decide as I know it's hard to make up the mind.

Blackbirdws6

iTrader: (7)

As mentioned by others, the 12 rib kit is effective if you are diligent with getting the alignment spot on and adjust the tensioner properly.

Thanks! Yes the car is running the 3.5 inch dual intercoolers from procharger. The TA nose doesn't lend itself to an attractive and effective FMIC solution. I plan on upgrading this in the future once I get bored or greedy with wanting more power. My setup is conservative but I'm looking for longevity.

Sc0tt30

iTrader: (6)

That makes sense then. Not sure how attractive the middle of a 97 camaro nose cut out would be either but might be effective. It seems like ATI doesn't make a great front mount intercooler from what i have heard. Is everyone just putting their own together?

I got bored with my NA 383 that is why i am switching over to a FI 383.

SRZ

iTrader: (14)

Majority of us run the Ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/31-x1...ht_6225wt_1084

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Thanks for all of the responses guys. And about the $10k number I mentioned I was just throwing that out there, I know it will end up being more than that if I want to build it right.


I'll change my first post thanks to Z28Roxy. My plan is to buy a block this fall and start gathering parts here and there. I have an engine builder, but am open to different options, but having this guy semi locally is nice. Now after reading what you guys posted I want to go Procharger again haha. But it will be a while before I need to make the decision, the bottom end of the motor will be the same. The cam might be different between the turbo and the charger, but that will be picked after the boost is picked.

Thanks again guys

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

NoMoreLS1 Badass build, the car looks great. I want to do something very similar to what you did. Do you have any videos of the car in action?

Sc0tt30

iTrader: (6)

Could you pm me the link as that one doesn't seem to be working?

Thanks
Scott