Lower Torque Cruve After Rebuild
07-26-2011, 01:21 AM
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Lower Torque Cruve After Rebuild The rebuild happened a long time ago, but someone posted on another forum about the lt1 making a lot of torque down low and I don't remember my dyno graph and breakdown reflecting that. So I grabbed my paperwork and researched stock dyno charts and it seems that at about 2200 rpms a stock LT1 should already be at 200 rwtq. Mine however is at 96 rwtq at 2200 rpm's. Is this an indication of anything? Bad porting or something? The peaks are 290 rwhp at 5500 rpms and 320 tq at 4200 rpms. The peak is decent, but what fun is that if I could be having more down low? I also found out a while ago that they put in a cam from a TPI engine. I have much more info if you need it.
07-26-2011, 01:59 AM
#2
There are alot of variables at play when looking at those graphs. Several reasons a stock cam/build would make lower torque than yours could be in the cam profile such as lift and duration. The other factors are the headers and a less retrictive exhaust. Those all move the torque curve farther up into the rpm range.
You didnt mention what kind of tranny you have, but if it is an auto you could match it with a stall to hit the sweet spot of that torque curve. It will help to keep the motor where it is happiest. Looking at the numbers I would have to assume you are in an auto tranny. On another note there are several cams that would drastically increase both of those numbers and still fit your goal profile.
You didnt mention what kind of tranny you have, but if it is an auto you could match it with a stall to hit the sweet spot of that torque curve. It will help to keep the motor where it is happiest. Looking at the numbers I would have to assume you are in an auto tranny. On another note there are several cams that would drastically increase both of those numbers and still fit your goal profile.
07-26-2011, 09:26 AM
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^ I wish I knew. I asked them for something that I could drive for a bit without tuning, at the time I wasn't very knowledgeable and thought tuning was more expensive than it is, basically I thought only dyno tuning was available because the car is a 94, unaware of mail order tune availability. But I didn't think they'd pick that.
The cam is a crane #104224 that has 214 intake 220 exhaust duration @.050 lift with a .452 intake .465 exhaust lift. This was emailed to me during the build. If I were smarter I would have researched the cam and saw that it's not for the lt1.
The cam is a crane #104224 that has 214 intake 220 exhaust duration @.050 lift with a .452 intake .465 exhaust lift. This was emailed to me during the build. If I were smarter I would have researched the cam and saw that it's not for the lt1.
07-26-2011, 08:00 PM
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LSA is 112. Just trying to decide if i should change it when I fix my other issues (lots of oil consumption, blue smoke, etc). I barely pass smog with that tiny cam.
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07-27-2011, 07:36 AM
#9
agreed.......that TPI cam is a stump puller lol.............you have some other issue going on im going to say in the tune probably either that or somebody really really hacked up your cylinder heads and intake..........but prob not the case............if it makes ya feel any better 96rwtq is prob about what i make at 2200 lol........
07-27-2011, 10:14 AM
#10
Looking back over it, I have to agree that the characteristics of this cam would indicate that it would be making more torque alot lower. Its big brother is the 227. IIRC that one doesnt start making it until 2k+ either, but then it makes gobs of it.....again if its an auto you need a stall.
My favorite street cams today are the 465, and 503, both comp grinds. The 465 is more what you are looking for. The 503 would act like what you have now, only it will make more power. Just thought I would throw those out there as Ideas.
Now onto the other issues. If you are blowing blue smoke you may have something wrong internally. Either way I would say that it is worthy of inspection for three reasons. The first is, that cam you have should make better than that. Secondly, it should EASILY pass smog. Lastly, signs of internal damage to go along with poor performance.
My favorite street cams today are the 465, and 503, both comp grinds. The 465 is more what you are looking for. The 503 would act like what you have now, only it will make more power. Just thought I would throw those out there as Ideas.
Now onto the other issues. If you are blowing blue smoke you may have something wrong internally. Either way I would say that it is worthy of inspection for three reasons. The first is, that cam you have should make better than that. Secondly, it should EASILY pass smog. Lastly, signs of internal damage to go along with poor performance.
Last edited by gatorhead; 07-27-2011 at 10:29 AM.
07-27-2011, 08:17 PM
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Thanks for the replies...I'm afraid their head porting was crappy. =( . I'm going to try to find the time to have a leakdown test done. Gotta find a good place to do it that won't charge me too much, I don't imagine it's easy on the LT1 with shorties.
I've said this before but when I had to change headgaskets at 12k miles the intake manifold bolts were loose enough to take off with my fingers and this was after the supposed 500 mile engine and header bolt re torque was performed. When I took the heads in I told them that and the guy just said, "oh, thats not good". When I p[icked the heads up they told me a breakdown of what they did and the results of the magnaflux, etc, and they told me that they re-used the valve seals because they looked fine. I didn't know any better that that was something that probably should not be reused. I won't be going back to this place. I should have known better earlier. I feel like I've been screwed multiple times in multiple ways. But it's hard to find a place in San Diego that works on LT1's.
I've said this before but when I had to change headgaskets at 12k miles the intake manifold bolts were loose enough to take off with my fingers and this was after the supposed 500 mile engine and header bolt re torque was performed. When I took the heads in I told them that and the guy just said, "oh, thats not good". When I p[icked the heads up they told me a breakdown of what they did and the results of the magnaflux, etc, and they told me that they re-used the valve seals because they looked fine. I didn't know any better that that was something that probably should not be reused. I won't be going back to this place. I should have known better earlier. I feel like I've been screwed multiple times in multiple ways. But it's hard to find a place in San Diego that works on LT1's.
07-27-2011, 08:37 PM
#12
^ start doing the work that you can yourself. I dont trust anyone anymore. Everyone is out to make a buck and doesnt care what work they do aslong as they get paid. Using Reputable companies and spending money where it counts is what you have to be smart about.
Sucks about the heads. I see a set of LE1's forsale in classifies for 950$ tho.
Sucks about the heads. I see a set of LE1's forsale in classifies for 950$ tho.
07-27-2011, 08:48 PM
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My dad has history with this speedshop, he had a bit of work done on his mustangs and was president of the mustang club for a long time and knew the shop owner. I figured it was a no brainier to go there. I'm going to be buying an LS1 car hopefully in a few months as a reliable car and slowly fix this car's problems as I can.
