EFi LS24X Connection Swap Complete :) Dyno Results in, Video added
08-03-2011, 04:14 AM
#21
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Nice work on the conversion! Two days is good timing.
It's actually not "way way overpriced". Unfortunatly there is no way to clearly explain the costs involved just to have the inventory to be able to produce a new plug and play 4th gen F-Body harness. Then add to that the cost of all the $250.00 crimp tool die sets for each type of terminal that has to be crimped in the harness. Two days of labor for assembly. And so on. It would be accurate to say the pricetag of a new harness is expensive, but not way way overpriced.
Very few harness shops use all new components, all of the correct wire colors and sizes, and even fewer use crimp tool die sets that are appropriate for each terminal. There are a lot of shortcuts out there and pricetags that don't reflect the highest quality of engine wire harness. See below for what is often hidden in the pricetag of other "new" harnesses (that are priced lower). General repair tooling does not provide a good crimp...but you'd never know unless you disassembled the connectors in the new harness.
Very few harness shops use all new components, all of the correct wire colors and sizes, and even fewer use crimp tool die sets that are appropriate for each terminal. There are a lot of shortcuts out there and pricetags that don't reflect the highest quality of engine wire harness. See below for what is often hidden in the pricetag of other "new" harnesses (that are priced lower). General repair tooling does not provide a good crimp...but you'd never know unless you disassembled the connectors in the new harness.
Last edited by S10Wildside; 08-03-2011 at 04:22 AM.
08-03-2011, 10:47 AM
#23
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thanks yea it was actually a pretty easy install, but like i sad if your rich and you can afford to go out and buy 800 dollar wiring harness more power to ya, im cheap and poor so im def not going to buy one. having my buddy repin mine suited me just fine
08-03-2011, 11:01 AM
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08-03-2011, 12:24 PM
#26
I agree the harness is expensive, but it is not over priced. I repinned mine also, and didn't get the new one because it was expensive. When I got the 24x kit in the mail, I realized just how good a quality all the connectors/harness were that Mike sends out so I think the 800 is a lot, but it's a quality harness.
On your buddy's rewire - what did your buddy do with the common grounds?
On your buddy's rewire - what did your buddy do with the common grounds?
08-03-2011, 01:06 PM
#27
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I agree the harness is expensive, but it is not over priced. I repinned mine also, and didn't get the new one because it was expensive. When I got the 24x kit in the mail, I realized just how good a quality all the connectors/harness were that Mike sends out so I think the 800 is a lot, but it's a quality harness.
On your buddy's rewire - what did your buddy do with the common grounds?
On your buddy's rewire - what did your buddy do with the common grounds?
As far as the repin im just gonna copy and paste what he just told me
Joined them all together
pocket_demon00: Had to add a few pins for this to work
pocket_demon00: Same for the 5v ref wires
pocket_demon00: Tell him the 12v ref for the crank sensor is strait up IGN feed from the LT1 harness, not from the LSx PCM
pocket_demon00: The crank low ref comes from the OPTI wiring, just move it to the crank pin on the PCM
08-03-2011, 02:02 PM
#28
Just to cut out confusion, it seems there are two different kits. 94-95 and 96-97, esp related to the crank sensor circuit
This is the 94-95 kit, you can see the crank wiring separate (LT GRN, YEL/BLK, DK BLU/WHT)
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...n-lsx-pcm.html
96-97 dont come with the extra wiring, only the connector body and a repin tool
94-95's wire the circuit in direct and rout the new wires into the harness. LT GRN is 12v ref to B2, DK BLU/WHT is signal to B12, YEL/BLK is low ref to B21
96-97s reuse the existing crank sensor wiring with a few repurposed pins. B2 12v ref will not be used as this function is already in place by the LT1 crank sensor PNK (fused 12v IGN). Crank signal is from the LT1 signal wire (YEL), LT1 PCM A1 to LS1 PCM B12. Low ref come from the opti wiring (PNK/BLK) LT1 PCM B3 to LS1 PCM B21. After all this is done, swap the connector body to the one sent in the kit, keeping in mind PNK is 12v ref, YEL is signal, PNK/BLK is low ref
You'll notice the low ref wires on a LT1 are joined together, vs individual on a LS1 and there are more pins on the LS1 pinout. You need 2 extra PCM terminals and about a foot of wire on each. Find the two LT1 low ref wires from B6 and B16, join them together and add two more terminals, making 4 PCM leads, all connected together. These go to LS1 PCM B54, B60, B80 and R57
Do the same for the 5v ref wires, LT1 PCM B28 and B29, join and add an extra lead making 3 pins. Run them to LS1 PCM B8, B45, B48
The PCM may be fine without those extra pins, but I wasnt sure and decided to err on caution
This isnt a bash to Mike, he built a VERY nice kit to convert a completely different PCM onto a car never imagined with this, so a few issues leaving me scratching my head were to be expected. The majority of the wires are simply move from this pin to that pin. For people budgeting time, it took me approx 8 hours to do it with the harness on the car still
This is the 94-95 kit, you can see the crank wiring separate (LT GRN, YEL/BLK, DK BLU/WHT)
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...n-lsx-pcm.html
96-97 dont come with the extra wiring, only the connector body and a repin tool
94-95's wire the circuit in direct and rout the new wires into the harness. LT GRN is 12v ref to B2, DK BLU/WHT is signal to B12, YEL/BLK is low ref to B21
96-97s reuse the existing crank sensor wiring with a few repurposed pins. B2 12v ref will not be used as this function is already in place by the LT1 crank sensor PNK (fused 12v IGN). Crank signal is from the LT1 signal wire (YEL), LT1 PCM A1 to LS1 PCM B12. Low ref come from the opti wiring (PNK/BLK) LT1 PCM B3 to LS1 PCM B21. After all this is done, swap the connector body to the one sent in the kit, keeping in mind PNK is 12v ref, YEL is signal, PNK/BLK is low ref
You'll notice the low ref wires on a LT1 are joined together, vs individual on a LS1 and there are more pins on the LS1 pinout. You need 2 extra PCM terminals and about a foot of wire on each. Find the two LT1 low ref wires from B6 and B16, join them together and add two more terminals, making 4 PCM leads, all connected together. These go to LS1 PCM B54, B60, B80 and R57
Do the same for the 5v ref wires, LT1 PCM B28 and B29, join and add an extra lead making 3 pins. Run them to LS1 PCM B8, B45, B48
The PCM may be fine without those extra pins, but I wasnt sure and decided to err on caution
This isnt a bash to Mike, he built a VERY nice kit to convert a completely different PCM onto a car never imagined with this, so a few issues leaving me scratching my head were to be expected. The majority of the wires are simply move from this pin to that pin. For people budgeting time, it took me approx 8 hours to do it with the harness on the car still
08-03-2011, 03:52 PM
#29
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The history of a DIY kit of parts was from a few who had no questions/concerns about doing their own harness work...all they needed were a few harness parts. The expectations of the purchase has grown and with efforts to stop sales of DIY kits of parts (by not being advertised whatsoever), word has already spread and email/phone inquiries continue. It was easier to assign an item number (still not advertised) and talk with those interested before a sale is considered. I hope this does not come across the wrong way, but I would rather there not be a DIY kit of harness parts.
However, possibly later this year, we'll bring in a 4th gen F-Body and document a DIY harness approach for the internet as a best practice sort of thing. There will never be step-by-step documentation as the kit of parts are truely DIY.
However, possibly later this year, we'll bring in a 4th gen F-Body and document a DIY harness approach for the internet as a best practice sort of thing. There will never be step-by-step documentation as the kit of parts are truely DIY.
08-03-2011, 08:43 PM
#30
Just to cut out confusion, it seems there are two different kits. 94-95 and 96-97, esp related to the crank sensor circuit
This is the 94-95 kit, you can see the crank wiring separate (LT GRN, YEL/BLK, DK BLU/WHT)
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...n-lsx-pcm.html
96-97 dont come with the extra wiring, only the connector body and a repin tool
94-95's wire the circuit in direct and rout the new wires into the harness. LT GRN is 12v ref to B2, DK BLU/WHT is signal to B12, YEL/BLK is low ref to B21
96-97s reuse the existing crank sensor wiring with a few repurposed pins. B2 12v ref will not be used as this function is already in place by the LT1 crank sensor PNK (fused 12v IGN). Crank signal is from the LT1 signal wire (YEL), LT1 PCM A1 to LS1 PCM B12. Low ref come from the opti wiring (PNK/BLK) LT1 PCM B3 to LS1 PCM B21. After all this is done, swap the connector body to the one sent in the kit, keeping in mind PNK is 12v ref, YEL is signal, PNK/BLK is low ref
You'll notice the low ref wires on a LT1 are joined together, vs individual on a LS1 and there are more pins on the LS1 pinout. You need 2 extra PCM terminals and about a foot of wire on each. Find the two LT1 low ref wires from B6 and B16, join them together and add two more terminals, making 4 PCM leads, all connected together. These go to LS1 PCM B54, B60, B80 and R57
Do the same for the 5v ref wires, LT1 PCM B28 and B29, join and add an extra lead making 3 pins. Run them to LS1 PCM B8, B45, B48
The PCM may be fine without those extra pins, but I wasnt sure and decided to err on caution
This isnt a bash to Mike, he built a VERY nice kit to convert a completely different PCM onto a car never imagined with this, so a few issues leaving me scratching my head were to be expected. The majority of the wires are simply move from this pin to that pin. For people budgeting time, it took me approx 8 hours to do it with the harness on the car still
This is the 94-95 kit, you can see the crank wiring separate (LT GRN, YEL/BLK, DK BLU/WHT)
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...n-lsx-pcm.html
96-97 dont come with the extra wiring, only the connector body and a repin tool
94-95's wire the circuit in direct and rout the new wires into the harness. LT GRN is 12v ref to B2, DK BLU/WHT is signal to B12, YEL/BLK is low ref to B21
96-97s reuse the existing crank sensor wiring with a few repurposed pins. B2 12v ref will not be used as this function is already in place by the LT1 crank sensor PNK (fused 12v IGN). Crank signal is from the LT1 signal wire (YEL), LT1 PCM A1 to LS1 PCM B12. Low ref come from the opti wiring (PNK/BLK) LT1 PCM B3 to LS1 PCM B21. After all this is done, swap the connector body to the one sent in the kit, keeping in mind PNK is 12v ref, YEL is signal, PNK/BLK is low ref
You'll notice the low ref wires on a LT1 are joined together, vs individual on a LS1 and there are more pins on the LS1 pinout. You need 2 extra PCM terminals and about a foot of wire on each. Find the two LT1 low ref wires from B6 and B16, join them together and add two more terminals, making 4 PCM leads, all connected together. These go to LS1 PCM B54, B60, B80 and R57
Do the same for the 5v ref wires, LT1 PCM B28 and B29, join and add an extra lead making 3 pins. Run them to LS1 PCM B8, B45, B48
The PCM may be fine without those extra pins, but I wasnt sure and decided to err on caution
This isnt a bash to Mike, he built a VERY nice kit to convert a completely different PCM onto a car never imagined with this, so a few issues leaving me scratching my head were to be expected. The majority of the wires are simply move from this pin to that pin. For people budgeting time, it took me approx 8 hours to do it with the harness on the car still
08-11-2011, 08:27 PM
#33
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right now im running a 150 shot, once i replace the nitrous and fuel solenoid i will bump it up to a 175 shot, no everything ran smoothly and temp stayed right where they normally do. Its def more driveable now far as putting around town. I can feel the hp and tq increase it feels pretty good
08-12-2011, 12:50 AM
#36
On paper it seems to be running a lot better the 15rwhp and 18rwtq from ignition upgrades only shows the old ignition was not spot on. I am going to be doing the eficonnection 24x system soon; I hope it fixes my low rpm problem I have been having with my stock ignition. Please post up a vid of your car running on the new system especially under the hood with it running; my motor shakes quite a bit at idle with the opticrap I hope the 24x system idles a lot smoother.
08-12-2011, 01:17 AM
#37
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yea thats all i got out of motor 15 and 18, better than nothing. my low end was always fine just topend mainly on nitrous breaks up pretty bad, i still have to replace my solenoid but idk when i will put it back on dyno when i do that though, yea i take a video seems a couple ppl have asked me now
08-12-2011, 04:43 AM
#38
Thanks for posting all the info on this. It's one option I've been contemplating in the back of my mind for a while.
Though I hate to be the bearer of bad news, I did notice the before test was corrected to SAE and the after was STD so the actual gains were more modest than they may have looked at first glance.
Though I hate to be the bearer of bad news, I did notice the before test was corrected to SAE and the after was STD so the actual gains were more modest than they may have looked at first glance.
