I have the possibility to trade, a large in the way part, for an ATI balancer. Are they a true benefit to mild modded motors. I have a motor on engine stand, plans are stock crank aftermarket rods and pistons. The ATI would be used here.

Thanks, Darrell

 

If your going to be spinning that best high then he'll ya get it. I personal like the fluid units but I have used the ari on my Vette. I think its better protection for the bearings myself and would do it if the trade is pretty even.

 

Gains would matter if it was the aluminum hub or steel hub. You wouldnt see tenths by anymeans maybe a half.

i THINK in the Tech manual suppose to have an SFI approved one from 11.49 and faster.

All in all its just nice to know you have a quality part with the rest of your investment in your bottom end.

 

It is a good piece but it is not a bolt-on piece. I just found that out, lol. I bought it for the sfi rating and the quality of it. From my understanding, they make the hub slightly smaller and then you are to have it honed for your particular crankshaft. Luckily my friend Paul has the means to hone one. The average guy would have to take a trip to the machine shop.

 

For high rpm/hp engines I would use an aftermarket unit, I personally always use Fluidampr on my engines because it cancels harmonics at all rpms not a narrow specific range like some others. The biggest benefit is less wear on the crank and bearings.

 

Thats what i said Fluid make a wicked nice unit. Can save you in an over rev

 

This. I have the Fluidampr for mine since the shortblock is new and cammed.

 

I bought one for the SFI rating and the great reviews I've seen, because per NHRA-regs I'll need when I break the 10.99 barrier.

 

I have an LT1 Fluidampr for sale, if anyone is interested.

 

It's my understanding that the Fluidampr is the better "protection" for an engine up to around 6,000 RPM. Higher than that, the ATI style is better.

You can't go wrong with the AIT unit, it is better than stock and is SFI certified (as is the Fluidampr).

 

Thanks guys

 

The ATI require a T40+ and T45+, some of them also come with a 3/8" 12 point puller bolts. The steel hub is all I would run on the street. I have two of the ATI, the fit is tight, but they do not recommend loosing up the fit in the instructions.

 

FWIW my ATI was plug & play on 3 cranks. stock, eagle cast & forged.

fit is tight as it should be. used the Kent Moore tool each time.

 

Paul long time no see man.... I was just woundering where you have seen that the fluid damp is only good to 6k rpm? Being that it is SFI aproved i would think there good to at least 7k or more. Plus the benfits of the fluid is it controls harmonics at lower rpm better than most other balancers

 

First I ever heard of that. You might want to try getting the hub hot in boiling water and using a proper installer. Works for me.

 

I had to have my ATI w/ alum. hub honed for proper fit.

 

Machine shop had mine honed when they balanced the rotating assembly.

 

I've been right here!

I forget where I saw that but one day a few months ago I did some searching about the pros & cons of each type of damper. The Fluidampr is of course safe to 7K but there was some documentation showing the mechanical type was more effective at damping harmonics at the higher speeds.

 

Mine was honed for the snout as well. Opti changes don't require a puller anymore either

 

they never REQUIRED a puller in the first place well not my LT1 at least lol