Ok, I am to the point now that I am ready to start the build thread! I have an unmolested stock LT1 Block and will be doing the following mods:

.030 Bore
9.010 Deck Height
New Cam Bearings
Callies Compstar Forged 383 Crankshaft
Callies Compstar Forged H-Beam 6.000" Rods
SRP Forged Flat Top -5cc Pistons
ACL Race Main and Rod Bearings
.026 Thickness Head Gaskets
Advanced Induction 215cc 23* TrickFlow Head Package w/ 62cc Chambers
Static Compression Around 11.4:1 to 11.6:1
Advanced Induction Custom Grind Billet Camshaft (specs TBD)
LS7 Lifters
Comp Cams Ultra Pro Magnum NSA 1.6 Rockers
TrickFlow Chromemoly Hardened Pushrods (length TBD)
Ported Intake Manifold
Racetronix 42# Fuel Injectors
Professional Products 58mm Throttle Body
LS1 SLP Air Lid w/ K&N Filter
1LE A/C Delete Pulley
ASP Underdrive Crank Pulley
CSR Electric Water Pump
160 Degree Thermostat
LPP Long Tube Headers
3" LPP ORY to SLP LM1 Dumped Before Axle
Delco Opti w/ MSD Cap and Motor Kit
MSD Superconductor 8.5mm SP Wires Routed OTVC
MSD Blaster 2 Coil
Mallory Hyfire Ignition Box w/2-Step
NGK TR6 Spark Plugs

This should pretty much cover everything! Lol. If anyone sees anything I missed or sees a problem feel free to bring it to my attention! Pics coming as parts come in!

 

sounds like a solid build. staying N/A or going to put it on the bottle?

 

Considering a Nitrous Express Direct Port 150 Shot from Nitrous Outlet

 

With good weather, tuning, and suspension that's easily a 10-second car. Great plan.

 

I will be getting it dyno and street tuned once its built. It will also have an 8.8 rear end with 4.10s.

The car currently has BMR Boxed SFCs, Eibach LCAs, UMI LCA Relocation Brackets

 

Not sure if LCAs, SFCs, and relo brackets will be enough. Add a drag swaybar, some front suspension with drag shocks, then we're talking 10s.

 

Those are easy mods I can do this summer lol. Are you saying 10s NA or 10s if i do a 150 shot??

 

car is an M6 i assume, what clutch is going to be in it?

 

Is it me or is your static CR going to be closer to 12:1?

 

Competition Stage 2.5 for now...it had held up on ny 411 RWHP build and it is rated over 600 but we will see of it holds...if not I will go to a Stage 3.

The CR was calculated by AI when I told them my block specs and they plugged in their head specs.

 

10's NA with good DA, I think your racing airplanes if I remember right. Definetly a solid setup.

I would consider looking into the pistons a little more.

There's two common materials with pistons 2618 and 4032. The majority of SRPs are made from 4032 which is still a forged piston but you could say is more brittle (High silicon content). Almost all of JE pistons are made from 2618 (which is great for nitrous).

Just like JE, Carrillo has a economy piston as well called bullet. Except they are made from 2618.

Advantages: 2618 great for pouring the nitrous to, great for Forced induction anything that puts alot of pressure on the skirt.

Advantage of 4032: They tend to wear less, and are great for street and strip.

Most piston companys will only feel comfortable running 150 shot on this type of piston, although many to more. Mahle told me once they wouldnt ever run more then that on there powerpack piston.

So depending on how ratical you want to get. When I built mine I was originally going to do 150 shot. I decided I wanted to do the bottom once. So I went with a bullet 2618 and they said they would feel comfortable in there pistons durability with a direct port 250.

 

I chose 4032 because the track will be more of a once or twice a month thing in the summer but it will be a weekend cruiser that can take a road trip if needed so I want the ones that wear less

 

10s N/A. The 42#s are a good choice. I'm using the same.

 

Sounds like a great solid build, I'm sure you'll be happy with the results.

 

What about your rear end? You should start thinking logically instaed if just throwing more money at it.

That power isn't gonna do you any good with a 10 bolt.

TR6s aren't exactly what I would choose either for plugs...

 

Nice build you have here. Keep us up on the progress and pictures.

 

I am gonna finish the rear end as well. It will go in right after the engine gets going when I take the car to Colorado Performance Unlimited for the tune.

The TR6s are just what I already have right now. I didn't think to ask what would be best for this setup.....so with that said......what would be best? Lol

 

Good to hear.

Something non-projected tip if you're gonna be spraying.

With the increased bump in compression I would have a heat range 7 for even a small shot. May need colder if the shot size increases, will just have to read the plugs and see.

I would use a BR7EF

 

BR7EF is what I had recommended to me. My car will be going together in a couple weeks. Can't wait to see yours done.

 

Are these the right plugs?

http://WWW.jegs.com/i/ngk-spark-plug...br7ef/10002/-1