Don't just leave vague comments that add nothing to the thread but your opinion unless you have some facts to back them up. 
Use stock rods for 355?
Lesson learned. Stock rod bolts?
More LT1's than you know with more than 311rwhp operate just fine on a daily basis. What I am implying is that, unless the rod is fatigued, then I highly doubt that was the initial cause of failure. It should be mentioned (if it hasn't already) that if using stock rods in a new build, then by all means have them reconditioned. In the OP's case, with what he's doing, I wouldn't worry at all about using a stock short block even if it wasn't gone through.
Stock rod bolts?
Stock rod bolts?
Just confirmed with my mechanic that he believes it was a rod failure, just as it appears in the picture 
So, to answer the OP's question...NO, don't use stock rods on a 355, whats a couple hundred bucks for insurance it can handle some abuse without snapping rods in half like a twig? Or, just stick with stock ones and risk building your motor twice like me
So, to answer the OP's question...NO, don't use stock rods on a 355, whats a couple hundred bucks for insurance it can handle some abuse without snapping rods in half like a twig? Or, just stick with stock ones and risk building your motor twice like me
Every one I've seen or know of in stock bottom LT1's up to 600 crank hp level, including boosted and sprayed motors, has been caused by a rod bearing failure. The bearing starts to generate heat, the rod material properties at that temperature fall off, and it breaks. Those who don't understand that progression simply call it a rod failure. The PM rods are hard to beat, but if you re-use them, you MUST resize them, WITH the upgraded bolts torqued. During rebuild of my shortblock, the big ends were up to .0015" out of round. And that was a shortblock that had never been raced or abused. If I'd have rung it to 7100 in that condition, like I do now, it would have been short-lived.
Another point: a rod failure is not always a rod failure
Every one I've seen or know of in stock bottom LT1's up to 600 crank hp level, including boosted and sprayed motors, has been caused by a rod bearing failure. The bearing starts to generate heat, the rod material properties at that temperature fall off, and it breaks. Those who don't understand that progression simply call it a rod failure. The PM rods are hard to beat, but if you re-use them, you MUST resize them, WITH the upgraded bolts torqued. During rebuild of my shortblock, the big ends were up to .0015" out of round. And that was a shortblock that had never been raced or abused. If I'd have rung it to 7100 in that condition, like I do now, it would have been short-lived.
Every one I've seen or know of in stock bottom LT1's up to 600 crank hp level, including boosted and sprayed motors, has been caused by a rod bearing failure. The bearing starts to generate heat, the rod material properties at that temperature fall off, and it breaks. Those who don't understand that progression simply call it a rod failure. The PM rods are hard to beat, but if you re-use them, you MUST resize them, WITH the upgraded bolts torqued. During rebuild of my shortblock, the big ends were up to .0015" out of round. And that was a shortblock that had never been raced or abused. If I'd have rung it to 7100 in that condition, like I do now, it would have been short-lived.
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Brett Foote Bolts can stretch and cause a complete and total catastrophic chain reaction. Funny how you skirt away from that by then disclaiming "it doesn't matter what broke." Well yes, if you are going to preach on rod failures and use yours as an example, it does.
Thanks for your feedback ahritchie. Im still leaning towards using the stock rods. You are the first person on any forum Ive read about to actually break a stock rod. No one on here can prove what did or didnt cause the failure. Any part can break for any reason. I mean, Ive heard of a Callies Dragonslayer crank breaking a while back and that is a top of the line part that I wouldnt ever hesitate using. I do understand you being against using a stock rod as it has costed you a lot of money, but there are a lot of guys running a lot more extreme setups than Ill be running with the stock bottom end with great results. If I get this thing together and next year I throw a rod out of the block, Ill PM you and let you know so you can say "I told you so"
Well don't I feel special!
It's all good, I don't take this **** nearly as seriously as others on here (you know who you are) Just venting my own LT1 rod (bolt?) related frustrations on your thread 
Good luck and I hope you at LEAST get them re-sized and put some ARP bolts in there or you might be in my position. LOL Well don't I feel special! It's all good, I don't take this **** nearly as seriously as others on here (you know who you are) Just venting my own LT1 rod (bolt?) related frustrations on your thread Good luck and I hope you at LEAST get them re-sized and put some ARP bolts in there or you might be in my position.
Well don't I feel special! It's all good, I don't take this **** nearly as seriously as others on here (you know who you are) Just venting my own LT1 rod (bolt?) related frustrations on your thread Good luck and I hope you at LEAST get them re-sized and put some ARP bolts in there or you might be in my position.And I would be pissed to if my rod took out my whole motor, including the heads.
Prove it. Just because something CAN happen does not mean it did. Regardless of rod or bolt failure you cannot argue that aftermarket I or H beam forged rods and ARP bolts are not better/stronger than stock. This is all opinion on your part to cheap out and save $$....I strongly disagree with your logic. That's all I'm going to say because we could argue this bullshit till the cows come home
While the car was my daily I'd shift it to 6200rpm. Did that for 70,000 miles with 370rwhp. That same bottom end I was turning 6500rpm with a GM847 cam for 20,000 miles with no issue. This is only one testimony of many in the years past who actively raced and posted. Two friends of mine were deep into the 11's with cam, bolt-on's and nitrous. Both daily driven. So no, you getting on here to state not to use stock rods after you blow up a 311rwhp engine and do not have a clear idea why, doesn't add up to a whole lot of anything.
Oh geeze, Margie...
While the car was my daily I'd shift it to 6200rpm. Did that for 70,000 miles with 370rwhp. That same bottom end I was turning 6500rpm with a GM847 cam for 20,000 miles with no issue. This is only one testimony of many in the years past who actively raced and posted. Two friends of mine were deep into the 11's with cam, bolt-on's and nitrous. Both daily driven. So no, you getting on here to state not to use stock rods after you blow up a 311rwhp engine and do not have a clear idea why, doesn't add up to a whole lot of anything.
While the car was my daily I'd shift it to 6200rpm. Did that for 70,000 miles with 370rwhp. That same bottom end I was turning 6500rpm with a GM847 cam for 20,000 miles with no issue. This is only one testimony of many in the years past who actively raced and posted. Two friends of mine were deep into the 11's with cam, bolt-on's and nitrous. Both daily driven. So no, you getting on here to state not to use stock rods after you blow up a 311rwhp engine and do not have a clear idea why, doesn't add up to a whole lot of anything.
