Rob94hawk

iTrader: (1)

I've had these Taylor Thundervolt 10mm wires from 10 years ago that I never used. Didn't realize that some of them were pretty long. I put the headers and wires on just to do a mockup. Was going to go the ziptie route since I have some heavy duty zipties but not sure if they heat will melt them. Solutions? Thanx

Badazz 97 TA

iTrader: (18)

zipties will work. Just remember the passenger side has the acc bracket so the wires have to go around that.

Rob94hawk

iTrader: (1)

This is good to know thanx. I actually had the bracket on with the AC delete pulley already and routed the wires underneath the pulley bracket. It worked out well. I may use some heat sleaves for a few of the wires cause they seemed awfully close to the primaries and on some I don't think I can prevent them from bumping into them.

Spartan7

iTrader: (7)

I have zip ties holding my MSD wires to the stock wire loom brackets, no issues.

wrd1972

iTrader: (12)

I they are at least an inch away or so from the headers, you should be fine.

boostedlt1

iTrader: (2)

you could always just get some metal ties if you're worried about it

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

Even better are the polyetheretherketone (PEEK) zip ties. They can withstand direct heat up to 500 degrees. Although your plug wires will melt far before that.

Torque Fiend

iTrader: (6)

LOL.. ^^ I use normal zipties, work like a charm, Best way to route wires, no ugly wires over your valve covers.

noice

I use fiberglass boots on the ends of all my wires, I ziptie all of them as far away from the headers as I can.

wrd1972

iTrader: (12)

BTW thats a bad *** looking motor.

Rob94hawk

iTrader: (1)

Thanx!

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

If you have or can find the sheathes that go on both sides of the engine routing troubles will be minimal. As it is now you're going to be hard pressed keeping #'s 3 and 5 from getting crispy.

Edit- I mean #'s 5 and 7...

94maro

i would suggest spark plugg boots incase it get hot dont want ur wires gettign melted

Rob94hawk

iTrader: (1)

Used a stock boot plug for #5. #7 is not too bad so I left it. According to Taylor these wires can withstand 600 degrees. We'll see.

I will need some sleaves for the wires on the driver side. Can't seem to keep a wire off the primaries. The passenger side is fine.

Recommendations for wire sleeves?

Larry @ AMS

iTrader: (1)

I would put the stock steel wire retainers back on.Those I find work well to route or tie the wires to with normal zip ties. The best thing I have found is also using 2 sets of wires which gives you more longer wires to route better.

I'm not a fan of heat sleeves since if they touch the headers they will still burn the wires and people think otherwise.

quik95lt1

iTrader: (7)

i use zipties..........no problem

Rob94hawk

iTrader: (1)

Ok I'll try them. I'll have to look for them. Don't know if I still have them.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

If the sleeves are touching the headers the wires will burn guaranteed.

Exactly. I have a long wire that goes to number 5. It goes to the end of the block and loops back to the plug. That way the boot points backwards away from the primary. All the passenger wires are routed using stock locations. Never had a burnt wire this way.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

Used Zip ties for years, no issues. Got very creative with routing. Never made my own wires, I sucked at it. I would have sometimes #3 wires go back to the firewall and loop around # 5 and have it come back around and zip tie it up.

The middle primaries always had issues even with Earls Flame guard and for me it is what worked. Even though there was concern of interference with wires tied together but not seperated.

jarretthise

iTrader: (9)

some ppl never have issues with zipties and some do. i wouldnt ever do it. crossfiring between the wires is always a possibilty when they are that close when they are searching for spark, causing a hole to burn through. wires laying on wires is a no no.. lt1 wires are too damn expensive to replace imo.