solid roller 383 12.5to1 le2
solid roller 383 12.5to1 le2 i am makeing a few changes to the setup, i am going with a 260/266@0.050 .627/.637 108lsa. 12.5 to 1 compression le2 heads. 6" rods and flat top pistons. 42lb injectors, thru a 4000 edge converter. 3.90 gear. what do you think of this setup? the cam is a custom grind from lloyd. also i am looking at king race bearings for rod, main, and cam bearings. does anyone have any feedback on them?
i also have .030 diamond pistons that i got from cory at clayton racing taht i want to put new rings on, but im not sure what i will need and i havnt been able to get ahold of cory.
does anyone have a setup like this? any track times or dyno numbers?
i also have .030 diamond pistons that i got from cory at clayton racing taht i want to put new rings on, but im not sure what i will need and i havnt been able to get ahold of cory.
does anyone have a setup like this? any track times or dyno numbers?
well as of right now i am running the obd1 conversion in my 97. i am thinking about doing the ls1 computer conversion. i just need to start researching it. what rpms would it like as far as shift points?
i could get a better idea with the advertised duration of the cam and the ICL but my cam is in that neighborhood on duration but way more lift........a 4000 converter was WAY to small for me I'm running a 5300 now and it still needs more.......also with those heads you'll prob be looking at a 7400rpm shift point or so if its a 383......again that rpm is a complete guess need to know more about the cam .050 duration tells you about 25% of what the cam really is
The LE2 heads will keep the RPM range a little lower then with some hogged out aftermarket heads, but you will definitely want more then 7k RPM on a 383 with that much cam. The 24x setup looks like the current hot ticket for high RPM opti-less goodness without the cost and difficulty of going to aftermarket computers w/ crank triggers.
Your car is crazy light so it might do OK with a bit less stall, but you'll still probably want more then 4K for the best ETs.
Sounds like a stout combo once you get an aftermarket PCM on there...just curious why at that level you didn't go with more aggressive heads?
I wouldn't even bother trying to run it on the stock computer.
Your car is crazy light so it might do OK with a bit less stall, but you'll still probably want more then 4K for the best ETs.
Sounds like a stout combo once you get an aftermarket PCM on there...just curious why at that level you didn't go with more aggressive heads?
I wouldn't even bother trying to run it on the stock computer.
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Not trying to start a riot. Le2 are not going to make the power that a better head like le3 or AFR 227 WILL! his set up should be a big number engine and would benfit from better flowing heads. I run LE 2 AND 3 heads so im not bias at all. Just was suggesting upgrading the heads is all.
Not trying to start a riot. Le2 are not going to make the power that a better head like le3 or AFR 227 WILL! his set up should be a big number engine and would benfit from better flowing heads. I run LE 2 AND 3 heads so im not bias at all. Just was suggesting upgrading the heads is all.
same reason I was suggesting he get LE involved with the rebuild again 
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Joined: Apr 2010
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From: South Florida
Not trying to start a riot. Le2 are not going to make the power that a better head like le3 or AFR 227 WILL! his set up should be a big number engine and would benfit from better flowing heads. I run LE 2 AND 3 heads so im not bias at all. Just was suggesting upgrading the heads is all.
the advertised duration is 294, im not sure on the icl. my future plans are to do a single plane intake and a bigger throttle body. i also want an aftermarket computer system of some sort. i cant make up my mind on what i want at the moment tho. i plan on shifting it around 7k right now. lloyd is the one that i talked to about all of tthis and this is the cam that he suggested with lots of potential to grow. ive got to say i love my le2 heads but i also know they are holding the engine back. along with many other things haha. but i am trying to get the engine freshened up and back in the car before the paint gets laid so that there is no accidents. this car is by no means a track warrior i drive it 15 miles to work and back about once a month. then track it 2 or 3 times a year. ive never really gotten my combo down, i purchased a set of injectors for the last build that were supposed to be 42s. sadly they wernt and it was causing me all sorts of headaches. now that its sstraightened out hopefully things will go better.
if there is any advice i can ever give someone always get your injectors flow tested whenn buying used. ugh:/
if there is any advice i can ever give someone always get your injectors flow tested whenn buying used. ugh:/
Your converter should flash to near your engine's torque peak RPM. A 383" with a cam no bigger than 266 degrees @.050" should peak in the mid 4000 RPM range. My 383" liked an 8" 4400 ATI converter. No way you would want a 5000 + RPM converter with that combo. You need to leave right around max torque, not a 1000 or so past it. My 358" with a ~280 deg @.050" cam torque peak is about flat from 5000 to 5600. Your 383" torque peak with no more cam than that will be much lower. Too high stall speed and you will never see or use the part of your power band that can really move the car forward. With an automatic car torque is more ET, HP is more MPH. Torque numbers with a loose converter on a chassis dyno are meaningless. Doesn't tell you anything about your actual torque, just tells you where and how hard the converter hits.
Depends on the accuracy of the machine work and ability of the builder. I get calls and emails all the time asking "If I build a 355", 383", etc, with such & such cam, so & so's heads, etc, how much power can you get me?" Are you shitting me? I've had 383"s in here built by shops that would not make 300 rwhp. Others over 500 rwhp. Some know what they are doing, other guys just flat don't.
Perfectly said Ed. I see more crap builds then good ones that's for sure. The internet info is not always the best either and kids take what they read and run to a budget shop to build there cars. Planning and good quality workmanship will yield great results
ya i understand guys, im hoping that i can put down some good numbers both on the dyno and at the track.
my parts list for the engine is
already have:
scat forged rotating asembly
arp2000 rod bolts
forged pistons
le2 heads
7/16 arp rocker studs
comp steel rockers
electric waterpump
pacesetter longtubes
alternator relocation kit. deleted powersteering and ac
42lb ford injectors
on the list to get:
if you have any of tthese parts and are interested in selling them let me know
260/266 @ .050 cam 294adv .637 lift 108 lsa
patriot spring and titanium retainer kit.
howard solid roller lifters
.105 comp pushrods
everwear distributor gear
king cam bearings
king main/ rod bearings
5717 mr gasket head gaskets .026 thickness
le2 port matched intake manifold from lloyd
58mm throttle body
anymore suggestions while im at it?
my parts list for the engine is
already have:
scat forged rotating asembly
arp2000 rod bolts
forged pistons
le2 heads
7/16 arp rocker studs
comp steel rockers
electric waterpump
pacesetter longtubes
alternator relocation kit. deleted powersteering and ac
42lb ford injectors
on the list to get:
if you have any of tthese parts and are interested in selling them let me know
260/266 @ .050 cam 294adv .637 lift 108 lsa
patriot spring and titanium retainer kit.
howard solid roller lifters
.105 comp pushrods
everwear distributor gear
king cam bearings
king main/ rod bearings
5717 mr gasket head gaskets .026 thickness
le2 port matched intake manifold from lloyd
58mm throttle body
anymore suggestions while im at it?