DamoclesX

Pics!!!!!!!

merim123

iTrader: (11)

looks good. but...get a photobucket account and upload all your pics there. then you can link them over here so we can see if full size. that way you don't have to worry about attachment sizes.

BizZzatch350

iTrader: (33)

Good looking TA

DamoclesX

Good idea ill get an account.

Question.

Are these stock? IF not any clue as to what they are?

Either way im ripping them off just wondering tho.

BizZzatch350

iTrader: (33)

Not stock, look like they have the smog hook ups though, why get rid if them?

DamoclesX

What are smog hookups?

Well, if I cant tell what they are I dont know if they are a good setup or a bad one I really have no faith in the guy who owned this car lol

Exhast is kind of my last thing to do tho so they can stay for a while, when the time comes it will be -after- safty and I plan to go for a full long tube off road setup(no cats) since we dont have smog checks here.

BizZzatch350

iTrader: (33)

Smog is slang for emission hook ups, EGR and Air.

DamoclesX

Thanks

Okay whats the opinion on this.
My car seems to run right when I first start it, I wont say 100% id say 95.. if I go WOT it will seem to miss at VERY high rpms, miss bog whatever, its very quick so its only noticied if you are listening.

but it will work right, period, now, eventually, if you run it long I think its called closed loop when the car is warm, suddenly it will turn into a pos.. it will bog like **** around the 1800-2500 rpm mark.. really bad, make that wierd sound.. if you can get it over that mark, and thats hard then its okay for a bit but if you push it to high rpms it will miss and bog and is just not good.


I'm ruling out optispark because my theory is opti normally goes due to water/oil getting in there, I dont see how warm or cold would matter... at this point im guessing o2?

Any input would be awsome, im really going at this blind and learning as I go plus what I can pick up on the net.


ps. still love these cars!!!!

DamoclesX

GRRRRRRRRRRR

I need to add to this
just took her out when it was cold not running for about 8 hours and she bogged, wierd thing is if I was in manual.. ie 1st gear then changing to 2nd.. its an auto it wouldnt bog......

but if I put it in d the 1-2rpm rang were major bogs.... sigh.. this is frustrating...


I need to sleep(drink) on this and rest(play dark souls)

lol

bizerk1

1. you could have gotten opti wet , when cleaning engine, if it wasnt bad already now it could be. 2 did u ever check the plugs on opposite side. 3. make sure your coil wire is all the way in that will cause huge problem if it not all the way on. 4. when messing with your cai MAke SURE that the bracket attaching it to Intake mani, the fat part of it is not near the throttle cable!!!. 5 I would not wash engine again.

bizerk1

ohh and for parts bynspeed.com is a good site. I do not trust ebay for parts. These guys on here know a lot.

DamoclesX

Hey thanks.
It was really bad before I washed it, what little I have done has helped a lot but the base issue is STILL there

Sucks about not being able to wash...

Didnt check the plugs yet on the other side, I wanted to do a few seafoam runs through it then just replace them.
I will look up coil wire right now.

chief455

iTrader: (21)

when first started, cold, the PCM is in 'open loop' not using all inputs like O2 sensors to attempt the correct air / fuel ratio.
After reaching temp it changes to 'closed loop' using all sensors and the full PCM data.
I'd say if cold open loop runs way better then warm closed loop - look at O2 sensors, MAF, throttle body all being perfectly clean. look at you vacuum lines everywhere for cracks, loose etc. PCV hose and valve itself.
still look for burnt / loose coil / plug wires.
you need to stop darting all over and approach this with a method.
I found this forum most useful when reading rather than posting and replies.
Use your questions as keywords to search the forum, read threads with similar issues and model year as yours and read, read, read.
you'll see what commonly works to fix common problems, tips on how to do the labor etc.
remember it's just a car that needs trouble shooting.
Use Google - anything you can to read up on your car.
It will teach you alot without typing every question and waiting for replies.
just my experience.
nice looking car and good price - the driver side header has the diverter valve and hose going to the AIR pump intact = they were trying to keep the smog / emmissions hooked up.

DamoclesX

^ Agreed

Well some real time into the car today.

Bought a new CAI, the old one was horrible.. never seen a filter that bad.
Changed the oil.
Changed the plugs(omg...) gapped them all to 0.05
Changed both o2
Checked rubber hoses and I found two that were cracked and leaking so I replaced them

And...
nadda

Still acting up huge....

So checking up on pcv value tonight but kind of stumped, ordered a cable so I can read the codes hopefully it will be here soon.

Wow.. these cars.. are a PAIN to work on sometimes.. like really? those sparkplugs... like... really?????? lol

z_speedfreak

iTrader: (3)

first I'd try disconnecting the MAF when it enters closed loop, it will revert to speed density tables. if it runs fine disconnected your MAF is bad, its not un-common for people to mess them up trying to clean them. let us know how that goes

also this site is a life saver www.shbox.com you can thank Rob(shbox) for that.
he also tells you where the cheapest place to buy GM parts are fyi. if it turns out to be a bad injector you might as well upgrade em tho, you can usually find some used SVO red tops on here for under $200(for a set) in the classifieds

def a clean lookin ride! nice find when I drove my z up to canada I had people offering me 10k-12k for it, I couldn't believe how much they fetch up that way!

edit: and a tip for using the search feature- skip right to advanced search and select the LT1 section before searching, that way you won't be lookin thru all the LSx crap

DamoclesX

Thanks for the advice I will try that as soon as its bright here.

The maf was so dirty when I got it, literly black and covered in oil, so I suppose it could have gone a while ago and cleaning did nothing, I will try.

I used to work in IT and with electronics so I"m fairly carefull with electrical devices.

Thanks Thats why I jumped at this, I KNEW I was in trouble when it had a custom air intake made out of semi truck turbo piping, and the guy went blank in the face when I asked him if the injectors or plugs were ever changed, he literly knew nothing.

You should have seen the seafoam.. I did it all, gas, oil, vaccum and deep creep.

The oil came out like tar, done two oil changes already in 500k and both were black, doing another soon.

The intake.. omg... omg it.. it ... it was like a nuclear bomb made of smoke....

It needs a bit of interior work, but thats easy really, I already have carpets and most of the plastic lined up(been looking long and hard at that thread here about interior work)

The main thing to me was getting a solid body and the paint is awsome on this car, in addition to having a brand new tranny.

A good ws6 will get you over 20 here.. as for everything else ya your looking at at least 10k for an average 4gen.. its really insane... alberta is the worst by far ontario is a bit more like the states but up here they are rare as hell.

Plus.. I think she is lowered also, I noticed the springs were red and I Swear she sits lower then other fbodies ive seen!

Cheers!!!

Nice car btw!

ps thanks about the search wow so much easier!

EDIT:

Pics of the plugs I pulled. Kind of new to plug reading.

Also.. sigh.. getting frustrated I"m going to wait until the cables are in before I buy/replace anything else.

I just started it up today, its cold, first off it was rather hard to start, annoying, second, i noticed it sounds a little off and was bogging/not running right RIGHT from the start, its not not NEARLY as bad when its warm, when she is in closed loop you have to really fight to climb her out of certain rpm ranges, others she will run fine...

I also tryed the maf, got it warmed up took her home parked it really idles off surges between like 400-900 rpm sounds off.. anyways I disconnected the maf

die in about 2 seconds..


lol...

my life?? **** it heheheeheh

DamoclesX

Well on the off chance anybody here has some ideas while I wait for my cables.

She is getting worse.. by a lot.. Before she could hold an idle with a very slight miss.. it was tiny.. I was just sitting in her and it was bad.. the car would shake off and on and it would jump up and down 300-400 rpm, it drops pretty low and sounds like it wants to die.

I swear I can smell gas also..
In addition she is pretty much powerless from being started now, with the stuttering and gurgerling and all, I put the pedal down and I thought it was going to die.. even stalled in reverse once...

so ya... sigh?

I'm hoping its not opti.... seems like a big job dont know if its above my level, I read that a bad coil and or icm can cause this but since its 300$ up here for replacments im resisting the urge to throw them in on a lark..

ahh......... going to be a long week waiting for thos bloody cables

merim123

iTrader: (11)

pull off the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator, see if you are getting gas, maybe the FP is bad.

DamoclesX

Okay, read about that.

I located the FPR and pulled off the vaccum control hose from the engine, bone dry, then I put some paper under it and went into the car and turned the ignition to "on" but didnt start, no fuel leak.

Ah well, at least its one LESS thing I have to worry about Thanks!

merim123

iTrader: (11)

now move on to the opti testing here.... http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html

it's half way down the page.