Supercharged Stroker Q's
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On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Yakima, WA
Supercharged Stroker Q's I am building a 383 LT1 this winter, I eventually want to supercharge it down the road....Can you build a nicely streetable stroker 400 + HP that has the compression ratio to still be SC'd or should I just concentrate on building a better NA motor and worry about changing the cam and heads leater down the road???? Its not a daily driver and I'm not going to be dragging it...around a 3k budget for engine build.... Any suggestions?
at 3k your gonna be a bit short on cash to do a N/A stroker build that will even make 400hp unless you find deals on heads, parts and labor. Not to mention that it would have to be cast crank and cheap pistons. 3 to 4k on a good 383 bottom end is the norm. If you want to add a blower to it you better be spending about 5k to even 6k depending on the amount of boost you are going to be running. at 3 k I would say build a nice 355. stock crank is great for this and even the stock rods. change pistons and get a set of heads and a cam custom ground. Have fun with it until you can put about 10k away for the blower and a blower build. That’s a very ruff estimate but it should be ballpark. Even on a 355 it's gonna end up around 4500 bucks by the time you get it all back together and running right depending on what parts are still good on your current engine.
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On The Tree
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From: Yakima, WA
at 3k your gonna be a bit short on cash to do a N/A stroker build that will even make 400hp unless you find deals on heads, parts and labor. Not to mention that it would have to be cast crank and cheap pistons. 3 to 4k on a good 383 bottom end is the norm. If you want to add a blower to it you better be spending about 5k to even 6k depending on the amount of boost you are going to be running. at 3 k I would say build a nice 355. stock crank is great for this and even the stock rods. change pistons and get a set of heads and a cam custom ground. Have fun with it until you can put about 10k away for the blower and a blower build. That’s a very ruff estimate but it should be ballpark. Even on a 355 it's gonna end up around 4500 bucks by the time you get it all back together and running right depending on what parts are still good on your current engine.
This is what Im modeling my build after.
http://www.ellweinengines.com/Ellwei...Kit/355Kit.htm
EDIT: I wouldnt recommend this setup if you are still planning on boost. If you are wanting to do a 400 horsepower NA 355 then this will be fine.
http://www.ellweinengines.com/Ellwei...Kit/355Kit.htm
EDIT: I wouldnt recommend this setup if you are still planning on boost. If you are wanting to do a 400 horsepower NA 355 then this will be fine.
Last edited by IronOutlaw; Oct 2, 2011 at 10:18 PM.
200k means nothing unless the crank is shot due to bad wear on the journal surfaces. It is nothing more then a moog point. In fact if the short block is in good shape meaning it is still factory millage, no rebuilds, crank, rods and cylinder boars are all in good shape then you have a good seasoned block. You can take the block to a builder and have them build you a tuff little 355 with good pistons in it. you can get close to 400rwhp but most of the money at that point is going to be in the heads, cam, injectors and a proper tune. You could get the 355 short block done reusing block, crank, and rods for around 1500 to 2500 depending on the piston and rings used, machine work needed for the rods, crank, block and the shops labor costs. It varies from place to place. On the stock internals you can run a blower you may just be limited on the amount a boost you can run depending on head cam, piston and rings. Best bet is to set a power goal and see if you can meet it N/A or on boost. The amount of power you want to make (400hp) can be done at the crank on a 355. If you want 400rwhp then your gonna stretch a 355 to do it N/A but it has been done but you have to really start talking to some builders and even some of the guys on here that have done it because you can miss very easily if you don’t do the research. 400 rwhp on a stroker can be done with multiple setups but again research needed. If you just really want a blower engine...well again what are your goals for it. You could do a blower on a stock engine and get close to 400 but again it's about what you are looking for.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Yakima, WA
200k means nothing unless the crank is shot due to bad wear on the journal surfaces. It is nothing more then a moog point. In fact if the short block is in good shape meaning it is still factory millage, no rebuilds, crank, rods and cylinder boars are all in good shape then you have a good seasoned block. You can take the block to a builder and have them build you a tuff little 355 with good pistons in it. you can get close to 400rwhp but most of the money at that point is going to be in the heads, cam, injectors and a proper tune. You could get the 355 short block done reusing block, crank, and rods for around 1500 to 2500 depending on the piston and rings used, machine work needed for the rods, crank, block and the shops labor costs. It varies from place to place. On the stock internals you can run a blower you may just be limited on the amount a boost you can run depending on head cam, piston and rings. Best bet is to set a power goal and see if you can meet it N/A or on boost. The amount of power you want to make (400hp) can be done at the crank on a 355. If you want 400rwhp then your gonna stretch a 355 to do it N/A but it has been done but you have to really start talking to some builders and even some of the guys on here that have done it because you can miss very easily if you don’t do the research. 400 rwhp on a stroker can be done with multiple setups but again research needed. If you just really want a blower engine...well again what are your goals for it. You could do a blower on a stock engine and get close to 400 but again it's about what you are looking for.
Thanks for all the info....That helps alot! I'm starting to think I should buy another block to slowly build into a 383.... I want more than 400 HP @ the Fly...... I bought this car as a project so I am also doing body and paint this winter and I think even a good 355 is going to put the budget way over what I can hide from my wife!! lol So maybe a slow built 383 is the way to go.....So a good stroker is more in the 5-6k range?? And my other questions is the guys with a 396ci is that new block?? or bigger crank?
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At 5 to 6 that going all the way on the short block making ready to handle what ever amount of boost you throw at it. you can do a complete build for that but again it's about what kind of power you want to put down and what you use it for. There are other things that need to be made to handle the power like the rear, trans, rear suspension. You will find that a good set of heads will be in the 1500 to 2000+ range depending on what you want them to do. If you want a good idea of what it's going to cost call Advanced induction and talk to them about what it will cost in top end parts. they are one of the best. To give you an idea. I had them quote me trick flow CNC'd heads, custom ground cam, lifters, pushrods, rockers and it was around 4k but that was for a top notch top end and cam. Add that to about 4 to 5 for a forged 383 bottom end for N/A and I was looking at about 8 to 9k. I went the cheaper rout and got burned and still spent 5k. Wont do it that way ever again. Do it right the first time, I have 3500 bucks in a 383 short block that is pointless due to a cast crank. I am now limited to the amount of HP I make due to limitations on the crank. I wanted a 400rwhp street car and I had to go way conservative on the cam just so I don’t tax the crank. Next time I'll do it right. Don't trust someone to just do it for you. That was my mistake. Know what your doing before hand. Good luck with it.
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On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 174
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From: Yakima, WA
At 5 to 6 that going all the way on the short block making ready to handle what ever amount of boost you throw at it. you can do a complete build for that but again it's about what kind of power you want to put down and what you use it for. There are other things that need to be made to handle the power like the rear, trans, rear suspension. You will find that a good set of heads will be in the 1500 to 2000+ range depending on what you want them to do. If you want a good idea of what it's going to cost call Advanced induction and talk to them about what it will cost in top end parts. they are one of the best. To give you an idea. I had them quote me trick flow CNC'd heads, custom ground cam, lifters, pushrods, rockers and it was around 4k but that was for a top notch top end and cam. Add that to about 4 to 5 for a forged 383 bottom end for N/A and I was looking at about 8 to 9k. I went the cheaper rout and got burned and still spent 5k. Wont do it that way ever again. Do it right the first time, I have 3500 bucks in a 383 short block that is pointless due to a cast crank. I am now limited to the amount of HP I make due to limitations on the crank. I wanted a 400rwhp street car and I had to go way conservative on the cam just so I don’t tax the crank. Next time I'll do it right. Don't trust someone to just do it for you. That was my mistake. Know what your doing before hand. Good luck with it.
I am currently building my FI 383. I had previously done a NA 383 but decided i wanted to go FI. My new FI bottom end was approximately 2700 and that is an all forged bottom end. My head and cam combo ran approximately 3k. My SC was approximately 4k. So as you can see the costs add up damn fast. I am sourcing a few parts used like the intercooler and found some used Kooks. So you can save yourself some money by buying some items used.
For $3k you would be lucky to do a good heads/cam setup with the necessary fuel system upgrades and gaskets and all.
The 396s are just a 3.875 stroke instead of a 3.75 stroke, IMO if you are thinking blower down the road though you should not be considering a 396, pistons get SHORT, not what you want for boost.
IMO you should also slow down on engine plans figure out what has been done by others and maybe get a ride in a few modded cars. People throw out HP goals without any idea what it really takes to get there or what they really have when done.
A 400rwhp car can generally at least momentarily break traction at sub-highway speeds from a roll with true street tires(not ET streets or the like). You put together a heads/cam/built shortblock setup then put a blower on it and you have something that will need a rollbar to run at the strip and all it has wont be all that useable on the street.
The 396s are just a 3.875 stroke instead of a 3.75 stroke, IMO if you are thinking blower down the road though you should not be considering a 396, pistons get SHORT, not what you want for boost.
IMO you should also slow down on engine plans figure out what has been done by others and maybe get a ride in a few modded cars. People throw out HP goals without any idea what it really takes to get there or what they really have when done.
A 400rwhp car can generally at least momentarily break traction at sub-highway speeds from a roll with true street tires(not ET streets or the like). You put together a heads/cam/built shortblock setup then put a blower on it and you have something that will need a rollbar to run at the strip and all it has wont be all that useable on the street.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 174
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From: Yakima, WA
For $3k you would be lucky to do a good heads/cam setup with the necessary fuel system upgrades and gaskets and all.
The 396s are just a 3.875 stroke instead of a 3.75 stroke, IMO if you are thinking blower down the road though you should not be considering a 396, pistons get SHORT, not what you want for boost.
IMO you should also slow down on engine plans figure out what has been done by others and maybe get a ride in a few modded cars. People throw out HP goals without any idea what it really takes to get there or what they really have when done.
A 400rwhp car can generally at least momentarily break traction at sub-highway speeds from a roll with true street tires(not ET streets or the like). You put together a heads/cam/built shortblock setup then put a blower on it and you have something that will need a rollbar to run at the strip and all it has wont be all that useable on the street.
The 396s are just a 3.875 stroke instead of a 3.75 stroke, IMO if you are thinking blower down the road though you should not be considering a 396, pistons get SHORT, not what you want for boost.
IMO you should also slow down on engine plans figure out what has been done by others and maybe get a ride in a few modded cars. People throw out HP goals without any idea what it really takes to get there or what they really have when done.
A 400rwhp car can generally at least momentarily break traction at sub-highway speeds from a roll with true street tires(not ET streets or the like). You put together a heads/cam/built shortblock setup then put a blower on it and you have something that will need a rollbar to run at the strip and all it has wont be all that useable on the street.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Yakima, WA
Somebody posted a link to the build they did...... If anyone has any links to builds that were done..what costs....and what hp/ rpm ranges they reached, that would be BA.... The one thing I want is a fairly extreeme cam.... not a hp sacrificing cam, but something thats has a higher RPM range. High Durration.....
[QUOTE=firefighter34;15465408The one thing I want is a fairly extreeme cam.... not a hp sacrificing cam, but something thats has a higher RPM range. High Durration.....[/QUOTE]
So you want an "extreme cam" and "not a hp sacrificing cam"....WTF? All LT1 aftermarket cams I've ever heard of add some HP over stock....even the baby ones. Extreme cam implies maximum horsepower and higher revs. Who the hell buys HP sacrificing cams unless they are building a truck motor? You should seriously do A LOT more research.....maybe what you meant to say was: "not a TORQUE sacrificing cam" but torque and HP are completely different measures of power.
So you want an "extreme cam" and "not a hp sacrificing cam"....WTF? All LT1 aftermarket cams I've ever heard of add some HP over stock....even the baby ones. Extreme cam implies maximum horsepower and higher revs. Who the hell buys HP sacrificing cams unless they are building a truck motor? You should seriously do A LOT more research.....maybe what you meant to say was: "not a TORQUE sacrificing cam" but torque and HP are completely different measures of power.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Yakima, WA
So you want an "extreme cam" and "not a hp sacrificing cam"....WTF? All LT1 aftermarket cams I've ever heard of add some HP over stock....even the baby ones. Extreme cam implies maximum horsepower and higher revs. Who the hell buys HP sacrificing cams unless they are building a truck motor? You should seriously do A LOT more research.....maybe what you meant to say was: "not a TORQUE sacrificing cam" but torque and HP are completely different measures of power.
I am not a a LT1 tech, I am just trying to educate myself as best I can on this web site. So to you an everyone else who likes to be a dick when people are asking questions because they dont know....Just stick to beating 13 year olds on X-box and talking **** to them!
Ok, whatever, dumbass...you obviously need to re-read the cam sticky because there is no such thing as a "hp sacrificing cam" in the LT1 aftermarket....they are all bigger than stock and therefor make more power (you obviously don't know the difference in HP/torque) You left out the most important part of your little quote: "are willing to sacrifice usable power and drivability" "usable power" and "driveability" is describing TORQUE at lower RPMs ....NOT peak HP.....either of the bigger cams will LOSE low end torque but still make LOTS more HP....why would ANYBODY put in a cam to make LESS power?
Now get back to your research!
Now get back to your research!
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Yakima, WA
Actually smart guy what the sticky says is that the cc306 and GM 847 are cams that sound BA but may sacrifice the power you could get from another cam set up!!! Obviously any moron knows an AM cam is going to produce more hp than a factory cam..... My statement was that I wanted I set up the was a BA sounding cam but I didnt want one that sacrifices achievable HP.... but if you just wanna critique everybodys lack of knowledge go play somewhere else!
Ok, whatever, dumbass...you obviously need to re-read the cam sticky because there is no such thing as a "hp sacrificing cam" in the LT1 aftermarket....they are all bigger than stock and therefor make more power (you obviously don't know the difference in HP/torque) You left out the most important part of your little quote: "are willing to sacrifice usable power and drivability" "usable power" and "driveability" is describing TORQUE at lower RPMs ....NOT peak HP.....either of the bigger cams will LOSE low end torque but still make LOTS more HP....why would ANYBODY put in a cam to make LESS power?
Now get back to your research!
Now get back to your research!
Firefighter... If you do your research, and look for good deals they can certainly be had. I bought a fully forged 383 shortblock (Eagle rods and crank, Wiseco pistons) with 4-bolt mains and ARP studs, all brand new and assembled for $1200. Deals are out there. It can be done, trust me!
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On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Yakima, WA
Ponyhuntr; much ablidged! (in reference to your first post) In reference to your second post; was that a block somebody bought and didnt finish or you found somewhere selling a short block for a steal?