Clutch or Hydraulic?
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Joined: Jun 2002
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From: Houston
Clutch or Hydraulic? my car wont shift into any gears the car is running. i can be at a dead stop, push the clutch in, and try to put it in any gear but it wont go in gear. However, when i try to put it in first, the car starts to roll forward even though the clutch is pressed to the floor but its not in gear(ie clutch is pushed in, car not in gear but trying to be put in gear, and car starts to move forward). If i try to put the car in reverse, it wont go in, but he car starts to roll backwards even though the clutch is pressed to the floor and the car isnt actually in reverse. I would have to guess that the clutch just isnt disengaging from the flywheel and that would explain why its starting to roll when i try to put it in gear even though it wont. I figure its because of a faulty hydraulic system(slave cylinder) but I would like yalls opinion before is tart tearing into it again. thanx in advance for any info provided.
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From: Houston
Originally Posted by lt4malibu
id say master cylinder, i put a mcleod master in this customers 01 camaro, and it came back doing the same ****. ended replacing it with the updated gm master, worked fine ever since.
it makes it a bit easier to take the booster out, the master has a 2 nuts on it(you get at them from inside the car. make sure you bleed the new master on the bench before you put it in the car, since its on an angle it has a tendency to not bleed the air out if there is any.
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From: Houston
bench bleeding just means that you do it by hand. basically, you take the entire unit out of the car(which you have already done if you are replaceing them), put the assembly back together before installing it, and fill the resvoir with fluid but leave the cap slightly undone to let air that bubbles up escape. Once its filled with fluid, press in the master clyinder shaft, let go, press in the slave cylinder shaft and let go. Air will be bubbling out of the resevoir so refill the resevoir as the fluid goes down into the slave and master cylinder. Repeat the entire process until the air bubbles quit coming out and the master cylinder shaft gets hard to compress. Install the master and slave, pump the clutch pedal a few times to make sure you have the air out of the lines, turn on the car, and go for a test ride.
have you tried starting the car while in gear??? does it jump forward or backward when you try to start it in gear???
as far as bleeding the master and slave on an LT1 you can just throw everything in the car and just push the rod, on the slave, in and let go. repeat until no more air bubbles. too easy.
as far as bleeding the master and slave on an LT1 you can just throw everything in the car and just push the rod, on the slave, in and let go. repeat until no more air bubbles. too easy.
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From: Houston
you can, but the master retains air pockets within itself and the pockets wont be released unless bleed in all positions(upside down included). Unless properly bleed, the master will retain air bubbles. My vehicle's problems had nothing to do with the hydraulics. Instead of using deductive reasoning, I listened to a lot of people who were guessing at what it could be and spent money on replacing the hydraulics. If i had even thought for a split second as to why the clutch pedal was shaking, it would have become blindingly obvious that the hydraulics were not to blame. Chop it up to the process of learning: best way to learn how to fix something is to break it and try to put it back together yourself.
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
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From: Houston
actually no, one of the springs on the clutch pad worked its way out, and got lodged between the pressure plate and the clutch pad. This warped/bent the teeth on the pressure plate diaphram which caused the throwout bearing to sit lopsided on the pressure plate. The shifter fork would shake violently because it was not on the throwout bearing evenly which then caused my clutch pedal to shake violently. Because the throwout bearing was not seated properly, it also wouldnt let me disengage the clutch completely to shift. If I started the car in first gear, the motor would turn over and the car would then drive forward, I would just have to match the rpm's to shift into any other gear. Apparently the clutch I bought was too weak for my car and when engaged under a full load, the clutch pad would flex somehow, which eventually caused a spring to pop out.