383 pistion help with N2O
Specs:
-4 bolt block
-Compstar 3.75 crank 4340 alloy
-5.7 inch Compstar rods with 2000 ARP bolts
-12-1 SCR (or just under depending on the quench distiance I end up with)
-0 decked block (to further enhance quench but depending on pistion compression height)
-200 shot off a fogger system
-AI 215cc Trickflow 23 deg heads (58-63cc chamber, still playing with the numbers but need a pistion first)
-Custom grind cam as Im not happy with what is off the shelf to get DCR where I want and the amount of overlap I want, looking 236/244 range on a 114LSA, lift isnt much of a concern as its a N2O build and the exhaust side is where power is primarily found but will be somewhat healthy
Goals for build
Car Isnt a DD but does get driven to the track and on nice days that we cruise with our car club so it sees alot of low RPM driving and then high RPM use on the gas at the track. Thats my primary reason for going with the 5.7 rod over the 6in rod because of oil ring intrusion and oil consumption being a concern(even thou a forged pistion motor will use more oil, I know). I understand the geometry diff between the 2 and all the other factors that have been beaten to death like side loading, friction, dwell time, RS ratio, Lighter rotator ect.
I cant seem to find a Mahle pistion list? Im considering most makers Diamond, Weisco, Mahle, but will look at anything if it suites my needs. Thanks in advance
So your part number would be SBC425030F05. If you wanted an inverted dome with -16cc volume just change the F05 to I16. The Mahle for a 6" rod does not have the oil ring protruding into the pin boss.
The Diamonds are also a great choice. They will change anything on that piston for $6.00 per piston engineering change. If someone screwed up the bore, Diamond will make you a 4.028 piston or a 4.034 or anything you want to get your clearance correct. They will even change the compression height. Anything you need. Six bucks extra per change. You can get exactly what you want instead of having to accept a compromise. We've all done that.
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Iv noticed that im getting answers from the people who are out actully racing and running these combos which is exactly who I want input from, but remember this engine will see mostly low RPM street driving.
What seems to be the lift people are getting away with without having to go to a reduced base circle cam (reduced over what the normal grind already has)?
Last edited by BigDB; Nov 25, 2011 at 11:24 PM.
Iv noticed that im getting answers from the people who are out actully racing and running these combos which is exactly who I want input from, but remember this engine will see mostly low RPM street driving.
What seems to be the lift people are getting away with without having to go to a reduced base circle cam (reduced over what the normal grind already has)?
two major types though, one is great for daily driving with a little abuse, and the other is stronger but a little rougher for daily.
I was stating that its just funny that they say 150 or 200 maximum when we well know that they can handle well beyond that...

