trilkb

iTrader: (4)

Its not exactly ignorance, With stock heads, most cam only cars perform about the same. You can say its ignorance, but compare a cc306 to a smaller cc503 or a crane 227...theres not a half second difference, half the time its the driver anyways and how well the car hooks, but a cc306 is not doing anything SIGNIFICANTLY different then the cc503 when you hit the track. Now if one car is pure drag with a certain cam, and one is pure street car with a certain cam, thats where significant changes come. Ive seen the crane 227 faster then a cc306. I would run this lunati cam just to be different. It wouldnt hurt to step down a size to improve its friendliness, but saying its stupid to run that cam isnt exactly right either. OP needs to understand with big cams come picky driveability, poor gas mileage and the need of a tune to be very good.

Just to clarify I am saying every cam i stated is on stock heads, ported heads...new ball game. Ported heads, Stroker with a good rotating assembly...Those cams arnt even in the same class anymore. But with stock heads, i dont see a massive difference in a street/strip car.

Puck

iTrader: (17)

Half a second is an absolutely HUGE difference at the track...

I don't see a reason to run much larger then ~230int on a stock cube, stock head LT1 for the street. Unless its a stock shortblock drag car with an aftermarket PCM and the gearing/stall to spin extremely high RPM you will most likely run slower then a properly cammed stock cube car that has more average power. That is coming from personal experience.

Call up AI, LE, COMP, Bullet, and Isky and I bet you they all will spec you a cam between 220 and 230 intake duration for your stock cube, stock head LT1. There is a reason for that.

If you had ported heads, were willing to risk spinning it high, and didn't mind a pretty hard lope then I would say go for it. Going by what you said yourself that it is a stock headed car that you don't want to sacrifice street manners though, I think its too much cam.

tbird31

iTrader: (22)

I actually have this camshaft currently and came across this thread because I am redoing the valve springs on my setup. I have 918s but I feel like they've run their course having currently 20k+ miles on them.

The camshaft overall is a great design. The sound and power is great. It has a bit of surge downlow but I just need to get the car back to the tuner to have it tweeked a bit. BTW, I have fully ported heads and 1.6 RRs, through full exhaust and it made 408rwhp and 383rwtq. However I am hitting a wall at about 6200 rpms, which I believe is valve float hence why I am redoing springs. Hopefully I'll net a bit more after the valvesprings and revisiting the dyno/tuner.

For what it's worth, my advice to you is to go with a smaller camshaft, I think the Lunati is quite overkill for a stock headed car, I had the 503 with stock heads and it was a great setup! I loved the power and torque. I daily drove it for a year and it made 351/355 at the wheels.

Goodluck.

bowtienut

iTrader: (1)

I too just found this thread.
For a stock cube, stock headed LT1, that cam is certainly too big for optimum performance. For ported heads, it's still on the big side.
I have some of the best ported heads you could put on a 350/355 LT1, and with a 228 intake duration HR cam, I'm shifting at the max rpm permitted with the stock PCM to wring out the best 1/4 mile performance.
And as someone above already said, forget about crutching those big romantic duration numbers with a wider LSA ...... definite mistake! If you must have that cam, it will perform better with a 108-110 LSA installed at a ~104 ICL.
You'll be better off with a cam in the 224 to 228 intake duration range.

Wicked94Z

iTrader: (26)

i didnt bother to read most of the replies, most are reading you in the wrong direction. The lobes on the sbc voodoo line like more intake advance, these (231/239) would work well on a 104icl and 108lsa.

Wicked94Z

iTrader: (26)

hm didn't see bowtienut's response before i posted, looks like we're on the same page

tbag_skywalker

This thread's given me more of a headache than anything else, nonetheless I'm glad you guys posted your opinions.

I never ended up buying that cam since almost everyone has said its overkill on stock heads. I did consider getting the next size smaller Voodoo cam but changed my mind and decided not to.

I wanna wait till I've got enough cash to buy the bigger cam that this thread is about AND a set of good flowing heads to match it. A cam swap is a time consuming job and I'd like to just do it once. I couldn't really justify spending $300 on a smaller cam that I'd only use for a year or two.

I've still gotta pick up a bigger throttle body, get my mailtune updated for that and my already installed 1.6RR's, and then some control arm relocation brackets to help my 60' time. Cam and heads will probably be put on hold for another year or so.

ahritchie

iTrader: (1)

Hey what's up fellow Charlotteans! I had my plum crazy 94 Formula up at your shop a year ago to get the fenders rolled; nice shop....it's now been upgraded with a forged 383 with ported heads and the exact same cam you have...lunati voodoo 60122 LOL...the motor was just put in but my y pipe won't fit due to the 7 qt oil pan so I can't drive it till I get the exhaust shop this weekend ; long story short, I need to get mine on the dyno too. Who does your dyno tuning? How much they charge? I was thinking about going back to my previous tuner John at Sigma Six Dyno in Concord.

tbag_skywalker

Hey guys, quick update with a couple questions.

I just bought a TPiS 58mm throttle body

And I also bought this cam, the #60122 Lunati Voodoo cam that everyone told me is too big for stock heads.

So my first question is, does anyone know if this cam will cause contact between my valves and pistons? I talked to Lunati about it and they said I should be fine, but couldn't completely guarantee it-- probably to cover their own asses in case I do have a problem. Either way, I probably should check with some clay on the piston. I was told by Lunati that I need atleast 0.090" between valve and piston to be safe.

Second question is what do you guys think of these heads?
200cc Advanced Induction LT1 heads

I'm pretty much ready to order them, but I just wanted to get a few educated opinions before I pull the trigger. I know I'll need a pretty good flowing set of heads to get more potential out of that cam and I think these look good. Either these or possibly the 205cc LloydElliott2 heads. Let me know what you think.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

The AI 200cc heads have made for some fast cars.

I suspect that cam will still be making power when you run out of pcm rpm capability, would compliment a stroker much better.

Puck

iTrader: (17)

With that cam and either of those heads, you will make your 350hp and have enough PTV clearance...but you wont have enough RPM available to reach peak. Of course the correct answer is to check anyway, but even with a zero decked block and a thin head gasket I don't see you coming close to hitting a valve on a stock shortblock.

Very good choice to listen to everyone and wait until you could do heads at the same time. That cam on a stock headed 350 would be a turd.

bowtienut

iTrader: (1)

Judging from your sig (12.8 @ 110 not bad for a stock cammed M6), you obviously have some skills/understanding and decent tuning at your disposal.
If you carry that over to this motor assembly, you'll get some good power numbers out of it.
Get the compression as high as you can. Check deck and heads for flatness and use a shim gasket to hopefully get the CR near 12.0.
As was already said, the cam is too big to extract best ET from the car with the stock PCM. It will probably peak at 6600-6800 and really want to be shifted at 7200-7400. I'd certainly go with the AI 200 heads; they're more of a sure bet than the alternatives. I don't know what you have planned for springs/valvetrain, but at MINIMUM ditch the SA rockers and go with 7/16 NSA's, guideplates, and stiff pushrods. If you go AI heads, follow their advice on the complete valvetrain and you won't go wrong.
If you're thinking of economizing on the valvetrain, put your plans on hold until you can do it right.
If everything is right on the motor assembly, you should surpass 425 rwhp behind the M6.

tbag_skywalker

Thanks for the input guys.

I've come to realize that I'm probably never going to do everything to this car all at once. I can afford heads and cam right now, but I definitely don't want to spend the cash on a new crank, rods, and pistons.

Though I haven't ruled out boring and stroking, I am going to put it off and do it when I'm ready. I know this cam is on the big side even with 200cc heads, but when the time comes that I decide to upgrade the bottom end, I'll know I've already got a good cam to work with.

Bowtienut - I've already got Comp Pro-Magnum NSA 1.6RR's, Comp 7/16" studs, Comp hardened stock length pushrods, GMPP guideplates, and Patriot Gold double valve springs which are good for .650" lift already on the car now, and everything will transfer to the newly ported heads.

I think I got lucky with this car-- I've never done a compression test, but it has run well since I bought it. It had around 85,000 miles on it back in '06 when I bought it, its up to 122,000 now and it hasn't missed a beat.

I'm not familiar with the thinner head gaskets that people use to raise compression without changing pistons. Is there a part number or a link I can check? I'll ask AI too I talk to them about porting the heads. I've done all the work on my car myself, including setting up the differential, but this heads/cam swap will definitely be a learning experience.

bowtienut

iTrader: (1)

Felpro 1094. It's a standard SBC .015" rubber coated steel shim gasket. Use your old LT1 gasket as a template to transfer the LT1-specific coolant holes to the new gasket.

ahritchie

iTrader: (1)

I have this exact cam in my new forged 383 with some old Combination Motorsports stage II CNC ported heads (flow better than Ai 190cc's but slightly less than 200cc's)....what would be the RPM to expect peak HP to fall on this combo? 6800 RPM? Over 7K? It can't be 6200 RPM as lunati advertises... I have yet to get it dyno tuned, just wondering where the optimal shift point is? I've been babying this motor shifting at or below 6500 RPM for now (waiting for dyno tune and rev limiter to be tuned in) to play it safe.

Wicked94Z

iTrader: (26)

that's a small cam for a 383, probably peak at 6200-6300.

ahritchie

iTrader: (1)

Cool...good to know I don't need to rev the snot out of it for optimal performance. I'll put up the dyno results soon enough.