I am brand new to this forum and would like to be educated on how to install a 97 Camaro LT1/T-56 with computer, wiring, power steering, alternator, a/c, etc into a 67 Nova Chevy II? The Nova has a pro-touring TCI front and rear frames with an IDIDIT steering column, power assisted rack and pinion steering unit with the rear being a 9-inch, narrowed Ford Currie setup. This setup will accommodate a 20x11 inch wheel with a 315mm tire. The front will accommodate a 18x8 with a 215mm tire on the front.

I just purchased the 97 Camaro LT1/T-56 setup from a local salvage yard after hearing the setup run. It has 79,000 miles on the setup with a few mods already installed. It has Comp Cam 1.6 ratio roller rockers and MSD IGNITION COIL on it.

I would like to be educated on what it will take to put this entire setup into my 67 Nova. I want to keep the computer and will convert gauges to digital ones to accommodate VSS signal from trans for Tach and speedometer. I would like to dump the smog pump, clear codes for anything no needed on the computer and install a throaty cam on the stock aluminum heads. I am going to port bowls, intake and exhaust on the heads. I am going to port factory intake and install a 52mm or 58mm throttle body as well. I don't have a clue what OBD I or II means at this point so I am at your mearcy to be educated. My understanding is that I will need to tune my computer somehow and it invloves OBD I or something. Please feel free to chime in and help me.

I have 3 corvettes (2003/A4 50th anniversary and 2000/T-56...416RWHP/387 RWTORQUE..Pro Comp heads, Texas Speed pro cam, kooks long tube headers, ram-air, B&M short-throw shifter, etc.)

Please help?

 

97 would be OBDII but you can easily convert that over to OBDI with a Knock sensor and an Older PCM. I don't know much about the wiring and such but people swap LT1's into quite a bit of things I'm sure someone will chime in with everything going to be needed to do it.

 

your hardest thing to do will be the clutch linkageand exhaust headers as the Nova took special blocks with a boss for the clutch linkage that other vehicles didn't use.

Also you will need to convert your fuel supply to high pressure for the injection.
The crank dampner sticks out a little farther than the earlier v 8s but will probably clear.

 

Use the hydraulic clutch, superior setup than linkage

 

Thanks, I really appreciate the info. As for clearance, the TCI front end will accept big blocks just by changing coilover springs to a heavier weight to support extra weight. TCI supplies a 1 3/4 inch small block header made for their front end. I think all I will need to do is cut oxygen sensor blocks out of factory manifolds and weld them into the headers to support fuel injection.

I will definitely run an electric fuel pump with plenty of pressure (adjustable). What pressure should it support (up to 100psi)?

I plan to run a Wilwood hydraulic clutch master and the original slave on the trans.

Can anyone explain to me, how to tune this 97 LT1 or what I will need to buy in order to do it?

What type and size of cam can the stock heads support (lift?). The heads and intake will be ported?

 

Thanks, I really appreciate the info. As for clearance, the TCI front end will accept big blocks just by changing coilover springs to a heavier weight to support extra weight. TCI supplies a 1 3/4 inch small block header made for their front end. I think all I will need to do is cut oxygen sensor blocks out of factory manifolds and weld them into the headers to support fuel injection.

I will definitely run an electric fuel pump with plenty of pressure (adjustable). What pressure should it support (up to 100psi)?

I plan to run a Wilwood hydraulic clutch master and the original slave on the trans.

Can anyone explain to me, how to tune this 97 LT1 or what I will need to buy in order to do it?

What type and size of cam can the stock heads support (lift?). The heads and intake will be ported?

 

255 liter per hour pump is fine, stock fuel regulator is set for 43.5psi (no need to go more than that in a NA setup). Stock springs support a max of .475-.480 lift- ditch them for some Patriot golds or Comp 26918 beehives and you can support a cam with .600 lift. Lots of good reading in the cam & valvetrain guide in the stickies. Stock 24# injectors will support a cam into the low 230s duration / mid-upper 500s lift.

Mail order tune will make it safely driveable, dyno tune with a wideband will dial it in perfectly. Several good choices for tuners.

 

Thanks Gojira94,
This is some great info. Thanks for your time!

On my headers, can I block off EGR? Will I need to plumb the headers for O2 sensors?

Next, will I need a special reverse flow radiator to support cooling?

 

you can block off EGR no problem, just delete it in the tune. You will need O2 sensor bungs welded into the collectors of the headers, since your setup is from a 1997 its an OBD2 setup so it would have a total of 4 O2 sensors(2 before the cats and 2 after). you can ditch the rears since their only purpose is to monitor the cats. you will need to retain the front O2s tho.

 

just use the stock rad from the '97, its perfectly suitable for RR/AX. and like stated the rear 02's aren't needed but you will have to tune them out as well as the EGR.. I don't know jack about tuning but I'm sure some one here can help you out with that, also try doing an advanced search on the subject restricting it to just the LT1 section to keep all LSx results out. EGR block off plates can be had(or fab'd yourself) off ebay for cheap.

be sure to keep us updated on your swap!

 

Thanks for your info.

Just weld in bungs for collector O2 sensors and delete rears. Since this car will not have cat convertors it should be good. Block EGR on intake should be easy enough too.

I don't have the stock style 97 radiator out of the car. All I have is standard aluminum 3 core radiator for manual. Will I need to modify the locations of the inlet and outlets to accommodate the reverse cooling issue?

Being told Harris Performance ( 336-471-2827) can flash/burn my PCM if I send mods to motor, intake and exhaust for around $200.

Has anyone dealt with Harris Performance?

 

just fyi the t56 will require some cutting of the tunnel in the chevy II, I am putting the same trans in my 62 and the floorpan/tunnel are very similar between the two years

 

use a ls1 instead

 

you have me confused on what radiator you have.. does it look like this?
and if your not going to dyno tune it go with a reputable mail order tuner, I went with madtuner (www.madtuner.com) last time I got it tuned just because I had bolt-ons and its a good bang for your buck so to say. now that I have heads & cam I'm going to go with the best out there, ed wright (www.fastchips.com) since theres no LT1 dyno tuners close ..when ever I get around to pulling my heap out of storage anyways

 

I have a GM style cross-flow 2 1inch core tubes inside not 3 a stated earlier, Aluminum radiator (26"x19"x3") BE COOL. Drivers upper side 1 3/4 inlet, passenger lower side 1 1/4 outlet. The issue with the LT1 style and LS styles are that they are too long to fit in the inside rails of my TCI pro-touring front end (26 inches is max length). I am being told be Street and Performance techs that I can use this radiator because of the cross-flow capability. My understanding is that I may need to cut off the drivers upper side inlet tube, weld and block it off. Then Measure 1 1/2-2inches lower and weld in proper inlet tube. The reasoning is to prevent air for getting in the system. By lowering the upper tube and making it smaller it would be good for my LT1 application.

Has anyone done this in a conversion?

 

Looks like RPM Performance in Wilson, NC will do my initial burn to help me get it running. Once running and drivable, I am taking it to them for a dyno tune. They did my tune on my 2000 vette but I wasn't sure until I asked them if they could do LT1s. After taking with Jason at RPM, they can hook me up on everything.

 

If you are interested, I have a T-56 (M29) that came out of a 93 Camaro that will bolt right up to an LT1 or Chevy SB. Trans had 79,000 miles on it when it was pulled. Shifted and worked great? Also have a rebuilt 700R4 with new 4L60E convertor and shift kit. Fresh trans no miles?

Did you use the manual steel hump in your tunnel from a manual Nova or just make your own?