What Else?
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 93
Likes: 0
From: PA
What Else? Currently waiting for summer to purchase new mods; SLP LM1, and a Granatelli 82mm MAF. I was wondering what else easy to install mods would help....I've been thinking about a set of 3.73 gears as well as an aggressive tune. On the tune part for the PCM who would be the best to go for a moderate to aggressive tune? The Z is driven a few days out of the week to class and car shows as well as drag strip for fun runs so I don't want to go over board.
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I will echo the keep the stock MAF comments.
I would say get a real stall before you consider nitrous or a cam.
The fact you have a 2500stall is worrysome, the genuinely good 4L60E shops generally frown on the high stalled 12" converters unless you spend a decent amount of money on them like the mild street Edge or I think the company that makes Vigilante offers a 12" as well.
I suspect though since you didn't mention a brand it is a average tranny shop high stall which means it is probably a $60 Dacco POS which then raises strong questions about the tranny shop. Hell maybe I assumed to much and you have good stuff but...............
I would strongly suggest you ask questions before making decisions, you mod list sofar reads pretty badly the BBK headers are not a good choice, the March piggyback pulley shows a further lack of understanding or research as underdrive pullies are best left to cars with mechanical waterpumps or road race cars that see sustained high rpms overheating the PS fluid.
The TPIS airfoil is pretty much worthless and probably the most expensive one you could have bought they are NOT a company successful LT1 modders do much business with.
The 3.73s are a genuinely good idea though.
I would say get a real stall before you consider nitrous or a cam.
The fact you have a 2500stall is worrysome, the genuinely good 4L60E shops generally frown on the high stalled 12" converters unless you spend a decent amount of money on them like the mild street Edge or I think the company that makes Vigilante offers a 12" as well.
I suspect though since you didn't mention a brand it is a average tranny shop high stall which means it is probably a $60 Dacco POS which then raises strong questions about the tranny shop. Hell maybe I assumed to much and you have good stuff but...............
I would strongly suggest you ask questions before making decisions, you mod list sofar reads pretty badly the BBK headers are not a good choice, the March piggyback pulley shows a further lack of understanding or research as underdrive pullies are best left to cars with mechanical waterpumps or road race cars that see sustained high rpms overheating the PS fluid.
The TPIS airfoil is pretty much worthless and probably the most expensive one you could have bought they are NOT a company successful LT1 modders do much business with.
The 3.73s are a genuinely good idea though.
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TECH Fanatic
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,740
Likes: 2
From: Nebraska
^^What he said, it's too bad you didn't get this info before you spent money on those worthless mods. Read up a little more around here and you'll find out what mods you need to spend money on that actually yield results.
Rockstar
iTrader: (15)
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,582
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From: I'm on a boat! in Shreveport, La
Are your times in your sig what you ran with the listed mods?
I'm with the rest here, get a larger stall, 3600 preferably, seconding the 3.73's, go with LTs if you don't do emissions, and cam that sucker. Forget a catback. All thecheap mods you have aren't doing you any good.
It's weird also, your 60' is ok, better than a stock car, but your ET is about what a stock car would do, and your trap is lower than a stock car. Have you ever checked to see what your compression is building to?
I'm with the rest here, get a larger stall, 3600 preferably, seconding the 3.73's, go with LTs if you don't do emissions, and cam that sucker. Forget a catback. All thecheap mods you have aren't doing you any good.
It's weird also, your 60' is ok, better than a stock car, but your ET is about what a stock car would do, and your trap is lower than a stock car. Have you ever checked to see what your compression is building to?
Just to be clear many of us started out modding completely wrong, first thing I bought for my car was a $400 Jacob's ignition system that in the end really didn't do anything but eat sparkplugs and cause problems.
Just have to man up admit the mistakes and move forward with more research before buying the wrong parts again.
I also at one time was modding in all the wrong order, did a cam before headers/gears/stall. Even with a very mild cam it improved times by about nothing, but then when I gave it the headers/stall the times dropped dramatically and that was midlength headers and a 9.5" 2800stall and 3.42 gears(from 2.93) so none of it was anything wild I was still putting 20K a year on the car then and running low 13s with a CAPRICE, that even today has AC power seats etc. at that time I was probably close to 4300lbs raceweight.
Just have to man up admit the mistakes and move forward with more research before buying the wrong parts again.
I also at one time was modding in all the wrong order, did a cam before headers/gears/stall. Even with a very mild cam it improved times by about nothing, but then when I gave it the headers/stall the times dropped dramatically and that was midlength headers and a 9.5" 2800stall and 3.42 gears(from 2.93) so none of it was anything wild I was still putting 20K a year on the car then and running low 13s with a CAPRICE, that even today has AC power seats etc. at that time I was probably close to 4300lbs raceweight.
Just to be clear many of us started out modding completely wrong, first thing I bought for my car was a $400 Jacob's ignition system that in the end really didn't do anything but eat sparkplugs and cause problems.
Just have to man up admit the mistakes and move forward with more research before buying the wrong parts again.
I also at one time was modding in all the wrong order, did a cam before headers/gears/stall. Even with a very mild cam it improved times by about nothing, but then when I gave it the headers/stall the times dropped dramatically and that was midlength headers and a 9.5" 2800stall and 3.42 gears(from 2.93) so none of it was anything wild I was still putting 20K a year on the car then and running low 13s with a CAPRICE, that even today has AC power seats etc. at that time I was probably close to 4300lbs raceweight.
Just have to man up admit the mistakes and move forward with more research before buying the wrong parts again.
I also at one time was modding in all the wrong order, did a cam before headers/gears/stall. Even with a very mild cam it improved times by about nothing, but then when I gave it the headers/stall the times dropped dramatically and that was midlength headers and a 9.5" 2800stall and 3.42 gears(from 2.93) so none of it was anything wild I was still putting 20K a year on the car then and running low 13s with a CAPRICE, that even today has AC power seats etc. at that time I was probably close to 4300lbs raceweight.
I kid....I kid!! 
TECH Resident
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 787
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From: T E X A S
oh and OP the stickies have a good bit of info!
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 93
Likes: 0
From: PA
I'll admit i did jump the gun on a few of the mods, but i worry about clearance with the LT's as i want to keep A/C and such and i want to keep it moderately withing emissions encase i go over the allowable mileage for one year bc currently the car is emissions exempt. I cant say that the other mods such as airfoil are worthless bc i have seen a slight improvement in times.
The transmission has a B&M 2400 TC, with a B&M shift kit. Currently with paying for college and not taking out loans i cannot afford the H/C (LE2) that i really would love to have, nor do i think that my bottom end would hold it. I just wanted some insight as to what to change to make better times is all, not a flamming contest.
With the 1/4 et times i realized that my mph were very near stock and i cant wrap my head around why, the car is currently untuned with 101k miles. Hopefully planning on getting on a dyno in the beginning of the summer. Speaking of a dyno i was also wondering who would give me the best tune for the price.
The transmission has a B&M 2400 TC, with a B&M shift kit. Currently with paying for college and not taking out loans i cannot afford the H/C (LE2) that i really would love to have, nor do i think that my bottom end would hold it. I just wanted some insight as to what to change to make better times is all, not a flamming contest.
With the 1/4 et times i realized that my mph were very near stock and i cant wrap my head around why, the car is currently untuned with 101k miles. Hopefully planning on getting on a dyno in the beginning of the summer. Speaking of a dyno i was also wondering who would give me the best tune for the price.
B&M should be avoided on this tranny, I would not have any confidence in a shop that would install their 4L60E shift kit. The overwhelming majority of good 4L60E shops swear by the Transgo and a FEW piece together their own kits that endup similar to Transgo.
You are pretty typical if you think this is a "flaming contest" even after several of us said we made a lot of mistakes before we learned to do it right. Man up, you wont get too far otherwise.
You are pretty typical if you think this is a "flaming contest" even after several of us said we made a lot of mistakes before we learned to do it right. Man up, you wont get too far otherwise.