RaM AiR 97

iTrader: (1)

I have tried a search on 11 second lt1 s with cam only. I have not found how exactly they do it. I know a couple of you guys have done it what did it take?
It's for the 97 TA in sig just converted it to m6
Also just broke 10bolt this Sunday at local track trying to launch at 4500rpm lol

trilkb

iTrader: (4)

traction, gearing, and parts that dont break on hard launches. Basically $$$$$

You probably had a better chance with the automatic, not to be a dick but they are just more consistant and launch better and dont miss shifts or shift points lol.

lt1-xjs

Getting into the 12.5x or better with just bolt-ons is key. Then add the 503 and presto !

bowtienut

iTrader: (1)

/\ THIS /\
It's more about the rest of the car than the cam. In fact if you'd left the auto in there, you could reach 11's with the stock cam, with some weight reduction of course.
I had my 3900 lb Impala in the 12.3's before I touched the heads and cam.

joelster

The bolt-on record is 11.48 so obviously having a cam is just gravy for the combo. There have been a few bolt-on only cars to crack into the 11's.

tbag_skywalker

Good gear ratio, sticky tires, and WEIGHT REDUCTION.

Get yourself some Mickeys or Hoosiers, then get rid of unneeded interior pieces and your spare tire.

gregrob

iTrader: (8)

Let me give you a hint, you dont need a giant cam... You need a cam that WORKS with the rest of the car.

A giant cam will run like **** if you dont stall and gear it to where it needs to be. Conversely a baby cam will work awesome, even with a little too much stall or gear because it makes TORQUE.

My car went 12.9 @ 106 with a 2.0 60ft at 7500ft elevation... You take that to sea level and its 11's with a decent 60.

that was with a 216 intake duration cam that routinely walked "bigger" setups.

Moral of the story, make torque, and get it to hook.

P.S. It wasnt like a tractor, it loved to rev on the top end as well...

LigHtEmUp01

my cam is similiar to a hot cam and im very pleased with the performance. my set up made 333 rwtq and its a dd mild build. like everyone else said id research and talk to some guys and see which boltone actually produce power and are worth the money then do you h/c build.

quik95lt1

iTrader: (7)

if u want to go ***** out agressive gearing, big stall, decent sized bump stick and go for broke......suspension/wheel/tire a necessity........if you want to do it a bit less crazy like gregrob said focus on torque.......torque is what moves a heavy car out of the hole in your situation.....a massive cam may not be your answer unless a steep gear and large converter are in your future........my application was a perfect example of too much cam and not enough converter....two years ago i was stuck at 10.6x and 128mph...couldn't go faster......i upped my stall from 4000-4800 and went straigt down to 10.2 @ 130-131 in comperable air..........its all about the drivetrain combo

RaM AiR 97

iTrader: (1)

I guess I should of stayed with the auto but it much more fun to row your own gears. What rear end and gears would you guys recommend I don't care about gas mileage. I will start with putting my car on a diet k-member maybe???

quik95lt1

iTrader: (7)

really need to pick a cam first.......in a perfect world you want to cross the line in high gear about 200rpm over your shift point..........

ie. mine for example i run a 29" tire with a 4.56 gear with my converter.......
1>2 7900
2>3 8000
3 gear through traps at 8100-8200

bowtienut

iTrader: (1)

I just re-read your original post and see you already have an LE cam in it.
What are the specs?

gregrob

iTrader: (8)

i like the S-60. MWC FAB 9 if you have months to wait.

RaM AiR 97

iTrader: (1)

Car specs
230/236 .584 .584 111lsa
Lts, potted mass air, 52 mm tb, spec 2 clutch, all msd, granatelli fuel pump
As far as suspension what should I use "brand" and parts

355z28

iTrader: (8)

I had a setup I worked with for a couple years off and on. There was 11s in this setup I just didn't give it enough time or good enough air. Now that your a manual its going to be a little tougher for you to get there and cost a little bit more now that you'll need a rearend.

For suspension I would invest in LCA relocation brackets, brand doesnt matter and a set of Drag shocks this will net you a pretty good gain. Remember tires are just as important.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...ay-new-pb.html

gjohnsonws6

iTrader: (12)

Search a little more.there is someone 230/236 and it runs 11's comp x e grind.

gjohnsonws6

iTrader: (12)

Search for Chuckels,and this is not an LE grind. off the shelf comp XE230/236

z28racerlt1

Back in the day I was running 11.80's cam only.

Lunati cam .224/.232 .481/.502 112.
The car was not light by anymeans. Weighed 3480 with driver.
Had a full stock interior, full moly cage.

turbo 400 trans, 4.56 gear. 28" tire. I shifted at 6400 and went through the traps around 6700.
It also had a Coan 8" 4200 stall converter

I was running a old Accel DFI gen 6 system at the time.

The car has always been a bracket car and was pretty consistant with this combo. It ran in the 110-112 mph range.

Had all suspension done that is still in car now. Car is a little faster now though.

Ken

RaM AiR 97

iTrader: (1)

z28racerlt1 When you say "Had all suspension done" can you be a little more specific?
Just saw video of you Z bro that thing takes off!!!
BTW thanks for all your input guys
If anybody else has done it chime in and give me more details
Again thanks guys!

Chuckels

iTrader: (4)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...y-finally.html

I'm shocked that anyone knows who I am. If you have anymore specific question that aren't answered in the thread let me know.