New 383...working the bugs out
#42
update
So I figured I would update this thread with the solution to problem #3, the exhaust leak on the passenger side that the felpro's couldn't fix. The car sounds so much better now and I can drive it windows up without smelling like exhaust and gas I got some Earl's "pressure master" graphite foil gaskets and they fixed my leak no problem They are a bit pricy though but worth it when you see the high quality. We checked the header flange on a straight edge and it was flat...so in conclusion if you have terrible luck with exhaust leaks like I did; copper gaskets leaked, felpro's leaked; Earl's makes awesome header gaskets!
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-29DA3BERL/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-29DA3BERL/
#43
Final update
Just to update the thread, all bugs have officially been fixed The 80+ psi oil pressure the gauge was reading was due to a bad oil pressure switch/sending unit. I finally replaced the thing while my car was down for unrelated issues. I guess it got bumped during engine installation This motor has tons of oil pressure...50-70psi while driving normal and 40 psi at idle. That about right for a high volume oil pump on a newly built bottom end?
#47
On COLD startup it is nearly 80 psi almost pegging the gauge Once it's up to temp, yes it varies between 50-70 psi and idles at about 40-45psi. That too much oil pressure lol? I know it's a high volume pump and 7 qt pan.....the guy that built the shortblock made it to go 10's NA.....so it's way overkill for my uses as a street terror DD car. I dunno, this is my first "built" engine. The stock LT1 it replaced had LOW hot idle oil pressure....like 10 psi...not this one though!
#48
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Its been my experience that if the ball in the blockis not installed (the one under the rear main cap, then pressure will be VERY low. Ask me how I know.