Albert96TA

I am going to use this thread for all questions and pics and everything related to this project.

Here is some backround, I have sold my 75 TA and will now use my 96 for my Road Race car. She is a 96 Trans Am LT1 with a 6 speed. See my sig for what is already done.

As stated it is going to be a road race type car with a little street duty, no longer a daily driver. I am getting ready to order a full suspension from BMR. Here is the list of parts I would like to order. If I am getting something wrong or I should get "x" instead please let me know. As always I would like to hear your opinion and advice.

HPP027 - http://www.bmrsuspension.com/index.c...&productid=826
TCA004 - http://www.bmrsuspension.com/index.c...&productid=274
CAB002 - http://www.bmrsuspension.com/index.c...&productid=368
TA001 - http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=p...&productid=315
PHR010 - http://www.bmrsuspension.com/index.c...&productid=281
STB001 - http://www.bmrsuspension.com/index.c...&productid=286
SUPER LUBE

The only thing that BMR does not show on their site is a set of bolt in sub-frame connectors. I was looking at UMI for that:
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...roducts_id=193

After that I figured a 4.56 rear gear may help me climb the speedo. Not sure on where to go for that yet but want to finish the suspension first.

Any input from the pro's?

pillarpod

any reason why you choose BMR?

duh

iTrader: (16)

Personally I think a 4.56 gear is a bit much for a road race car, but it really depends on the track you're at. Aside from that maybe get ahold of Strano for a Watts Link as it will allow the rear to move up and down without the unwanted side to side movement. Good Luck!

LT1 POWR

iTrader: (4)

I like my Spohn stuff. Talk to Sam Strano if you want to set up a truly bad *** setup.

JasonShort

iTrader: (242)

I would definitely recommend to do your package through Strano. Koni shocks, Strano springs, Strano swaybars. It's the best setup you can buy and actually designed by a champion F-body driver himself (Sam Strano). Additionally, Sam's customer service is one of the best I (and others) have ever received.

stuart4185

hold up on hitting the purchase button, not that im a true hardcore road racer by any means, but there are different things i would set the car up with.

torque arm that doent mount to the trans

adjustable coil overs instead of lowering springs. tune the suspension to the track, adjust for over and understeer conditions.


show up at an event and try your stuff with your car as it sits, talk to other people, see what works, see what the rules are, and pick a class to compete in based upon your budget.

buying all that stuff and putting yourself in the unlimited class and you show up on race day and end up in a class with vipers, porshes, and vettes wont be much fun

itSSlowZ28

iTrader: (5)

forget the relocation brackets. not what you want for RR suspension. i would also look at a cross-member mounted torque arm. if you're going to get one, might as well get it off of the trans while you're at it

why do you want bolt-in sfc's?

as the others said, i would get in touch with Strano. i'd much rather have his knowledge and advice as well as give my money to a fellow f-body enthusiast and not just a large company

GR33N GoblinM6

iTrader: (14)

If this is a road race non daily, forget the koni's and go for AST's from Vorshlag

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

Your going to want a torque arm relocation mount, stay with the long style torque arm for road racing. Also get weld in SFCs, Midwest chassis has some nice ones.

97pontta

iTrader: (10)

The parts you have chosen are good parts but if you want the best bang for you buck I also suggest getting a hold of Sam Strano. He is honest with you and doesn't try to push a bunch of parts at you that you don't need for the goals you have set. The guy has a proven suspension setup for the 4th gen that he has won many races with in his 4th gen, will recommend the right parts the first time to meet your goals, not to mention the customer service. I've had many a 20 minute phone call with him discussing what parts to use and why he recommends them.

I've got his lowering spirngs, hollow sway bars and using Koni 4/4 shocks. I absolutely love the way my car drives. Very predictable at all speeds and goes where ever you point the front wheels and does it with ease. Keep in mind that these parts are not the cheapest out there and I didn't dive in all at once, I purchased his springs and shocks first and about a year later added his hollow bars.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

IMO that gear is way too much. It'd be fine for a 7-speed trans with gears all at or under a 1:1 ratio, but for a t56 car, even for short track stuff, it's too much.

slomarao

iTrader: (6)

i would hold off, buy the stuff from Strano perf. Sam knows how to setup an f body better than anyone.

lethal bird

iTrader: (12)

This! I have almost a full suspension from Spohn.

speed_demon24

iTrader: (6)

I bought all my suspension stuff from strano and would do it again, but the bmr shock/spring price would be hard to pass up.

The Batman

iTrader: (4)

I would probably ditch the poly/rod LCAs and Phb for Rod/rod versions. Well actually I would personally go with UMI Roto Joints everywhere because thats what i did lol. I agree with your torque arm, but I would add a relocation cross member to the list. And I agree with everyone that the LCA Relocation brackets are not needed. I am about to buy some 17x11" Zr1's with 315/35/17 NIttos for all 4 corners. Remember your gonna need sticky tires or the suspension wont be able to fully benefit you. Im just getting started with my setup but heres a list that I have that seems to be somewhat popular.

UMI: Double adjustable LCA's w/Roto Joints
Double adjustable PHB w/Roto Joints
Adjustable Full length torque arm
Torque arm relocation crossmember
Strano: SP141 Lowering springs
Hollow front Sway bar
Adjustable Hollow rear sway bar
Misc: Koni 4/3 shocks
Energy Suspensions bumpstops, Motor/Transmission Mounts
Baer "claw" Track front brake system w/13" rotors
Stainless Brake Lines everywhere
Founders STB
SJM Abs delete kit with Wilwood proportioning valve and line lock
Left to order: 4-17x11" ZR1 DD w/ 315/35/17 Nitto's
wheel spacers
rear brake pads and rotors
Brembo brake fluid
Replacing all bushings/tie rods/ ball joints
Cipher racing seats
Some type of cage


Like I said, I'm just starting out. I wont be doing any actual racing probably, but I want to have a good setup for track days. If you're going to actually try to compete, you need to pick a class and see what is allowed for mods in that class. And then get as much experience as you can so can be competitive.

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

From reading on frrax.com, stay away from poly bushings on the phb because they flex too much, go with rod ends.

Albert96TA

Well, thank you all for the great advice. I went with BMR because I like getting my parts from the same place so they all work together.

Does anybody have a link to Sam Strano? I would like to research some more.

I tried to do a multi-quote but it didnt work for some reason. I agree with the guys that said figure the class first and build for that class, and no it will not be much fun to get into a class with Vipers and Z06's, yet. Thanks for stating the obvious that I seemed to overlook due to the excitement of building my car.

Thanks again all

The Batman

iTrader: (4)

www.stranoparts.com
I dont have the time personally to race in any particular class, I am building my car how I want and thats that. I only plan on hitting up random track days in the summer time when my schedule frees up a little time.

v7guy

iTrader: (1)

Out of those selections, the strut tower bar is highly debated on it's usefulness. It also makes a lot more sense to go for some weld in subframes, and if it's going to be primarily a RR/AC type car with little street time there's no reason to not go rod ends on the LCAs and the PHR.
Unbalanced engineering makes a decoupled tourque arm that virtually eliminates brake hop. It's well liked over on frrax and nobody else makes one.

Shocks/springs/swaybars will make the biggest immediate difference and you can do a lot better than what BMR lists there. Obviously for more money, but its geared for RR/AC.
Strano can set you up with a tidy package that will work well in most situations and if you want a full blown race type setup (rod ended racing shocks/coilovers) Unbalanced Engineering can set you up there. To the best of my knowledge nobody else offers a race type setup.

Truthfully, if you use Strano, I wouldn't bother with the website. Just give them a call. They'll talk to you and figure out what you want and get it sent to you, they'll even try to talk you out of a part if they don't think it'll help you out. They're real helpful and friendly folks over there.

Albert96TA

Thats great to know, I will look over his site and then give him a call, thanks again