LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

changing rear main seal

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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 01:21 PM
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Default changing rear main seal

what would be the fastest/easy way to go about it...I it will be a total bitch.

When i searched i see that guys are able to change the RMS without taking off?? is this correct?? so i pull the trans, clutch/flywheel and replace it??

any tips?

for all of you that have been helping me get this motor running right thank you, I did solve my ELE issues (starter grounds, burnt wires, etc) and now the car is leaking oil from the back.

when i only had about 20min of run time on the motor i blew the oil filter adapter off of it & broke it when i was moving the car around my garage. pretty sure all the pressure de-seated or messed up the rear main.

I have a rear motor oil leak and have checked & re-checked everything else, rear main has to be it.

Last edited by slomarao; Mar 30, 2012 at 01:54 PM.
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 01:49 PM
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It's pretty straight forward. There are groves for you to fit a screwdriver into place and pry the old seal out. When putting the new one in, make sure to follow instructions as to whether it's a wet or dry seal. I believe the Fel-Pro seal needs to be installed dry (meaning no oil should come in contact with it). It comes with its own plastic install tool that will make sliding the seal over the crank easy.
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 01:53 PM
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ok, thanks....not looking forward to this wkend...lol
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 02:29 PM
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FYI, If you get the Felpro teflon seal it goes on dry. That's the way I installed mine.
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by slomarao
when i only had about 20min of run time on the motor i blew the oil filter adapter off of it & broke it when i was moving the car around my garage. pretty sure all the pressure de-seated or messed up the rear main.

I have a rear motor oil leak and have checked & re-checked everything else, rear main has to be it.
The rear main seal doesn't have oil pump pressure on it, only crankcase pressure. You could take off the flywheel inspection cover to get a look at the back of the block. Are you sure it's not the intake or the oil press switch? I had a small leak from the back I assumed was the rear main but it wasn't bad enough to mess with. When I changed my cam I had to re-torque all the oil pan bolts.....the leak went away. It was the rear of the oil pan.
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 03:32 PM
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I have a 7qt canton pan, really dont think its leaking but il double check. thanks
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 04:10 PM
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is there anything else it could be in that direct area?? ive checked, re checked everything, it has to be the rear main...??
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Old Mar 31, 2012 | 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by guppymech
The rear main seal doesn't have oil pump pressure on it, only crankcase pressure. You could take off the flywheel inspection cover to get a look at the back of the block. Are you sure it's not the intake or the oil press switch? I had a small leak from the back I assumed was the rear main but it wasn't bad enough to mess with. When I changed my cam I had to re-torque all the oil pan bolts.....the leak went away. It was the rear of the oil pan.
you've got me thinking its not the rear main now. my valve covers have been leaking tiny tiny bits cuz ive taken them on and off the car so many times.

the area where the bolt heads touch were slightly recessed from being tightened up so many times.

with both i used a body hammer, tapped them out and now they are fine. little **** like this has been the death of me with this build. being my first ive made lots of mistakes and i am betting its just something dumb i overlooked or forgot..

what else should i give a hard look at before i pull the RMS ??

ive wiped the motor, underside of the car down well.
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Old Mar 31, 2012 | 06:19 PM
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Look at front and rear of the intake, oil switch on the back rail of block and both left and right lower valve covers, thats about it.
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