nice and quick, good job!

 

Very nice Matt. Glad everything worked out well with the ATI hub. Who did your initial/start up tuning?

 

is it just idling really high? or just the camera sound?

 

Thanks for the comments guys!

Bolo, that timing set worked mint there wasn't any issue with clearancing the cam reluctor. Flame did the initial tune he posted up on the first page. He's going to be dyno tunning for me eventually.

As for the idle I can't remember if it was idling high I think its just the poor sound quality of the camera.

 

how much did u spend total

 

Bought my kit used for $800 shipped

EFI 24x Kit - $540 New
EFI 24x DIY Wiring Kit - $100 New
0411 PCM - $100 Used
Coils - $200 Used Average
Custom Brackets -?
MSD Custom Wires - 65 New
Plug Shields - $30 New

If bought New - $1035

96-97 Timing Cover - $75 Shipped Used
96-97 Ac Delco Knock Sensor - $75 Shipped New

Cloyes 9-3157 Single Roller Timing Set - $150 Shipped New

So ive got about $1100 into it.

By the time i sell my perfectly working Ac Delco Opti, MSD Cap Kit, MSD Wires, PCM, Cloyes Double Roller Timing Set, 95 Cover, etc i should be in the $5-700 range or so which aint that bad when you think about it. Its just the initial hit off the bat that turns off alot of people. If you do your own harness you can save yourself $750 and the harness isnt that bad to build.

 

matt, looks great and sounded awesome

 

Thanks man

Took it out for its drive with the conversion and seems to run pretty smooth the only issue i have is the idle stays a little high for a bit then returns back to norm. Should be something in the tune we'll look into but it runs and drives with an opti! Only trouble code i got while driving was a skip shift code which will be deleted once tuned.

 

why the newer knock sensor

 

Requirement with the 24x conversion.

 

i had the same issue with idle. I switched back to a stock throttle body because I couldn't get the 58mm bbk to idle (i didn't want to drill a hole in the TB)

Also - if you are using hp tuners, you can go and set certain idle counts and then it will idle fine in diagnostic mode so that you can confirm it's not anywhere else and it's at the tps and iac and throttle body.

 

hmm ill have to look into while tunning to see if we can correct it without doing that.

 

iirc it's in the diagnostic area where you can turn off/on fans, etc. you can put in desired iac count and then see how it responds based on the tps voltage you have.

 

Thanks for the input ill keep it in mind

 

Just sold my working low mile opti tonight so i had about 1100 with the timing chain purchase or 950 without. Sold the opti for 280 so that would bring my cost down to $67
0 into the swap. Still have to sell off my cloyes double roller, pcm, m6 harness, coil, and icm to bring the cost down even more!

 

Got some time tonight to work on it after the ewp bearings decided to go. Got the ewp back on bled the system and could start to see the belt start to tear. ****! Spent most of last year dealing with belt issues after i modded the acc bracket and moved the alt down low. Looks as though now after i got the hub machined down to work its now too short WTH. I took off what Mike from EFI said was the thickness of the reluctor too. So now im either going to try and put a spacer infront of the reluctor or buy a new ati hub and be done with it. Just want to get the thing done and drive it! Sorry for the rant just two bullshit things just had to cause issues. Guess thats the fun in modding

 

FWIW i took my hub and ballancer pulley (both ati and stock) and had them setup and measure from the first rib to the end of the hub. They came up with .026 difference. That shouldnt be enough to make alignment issues so I had them leave it alone.

 

Im thinking i should have just left it alone too rather then take a thou off it.

 

Figured an update is needed so here it is. Got all the bugs muscled out and took my car to be tuned. While getting tuned i got a call that 5th and 6th went out in my T56. Ripped it down and found out that my main shaft and 5-6 driven gear splines were toasted. While i was in there i also replaced 1-2, 3-4, and reverse syncros aswell bearings and races for the main shaft. Should have the trans back together and in the car next week to progress on tunning. Found an issue with the 24x setup that i was getting a flashin MIL light which is a serious misfire but the car didnt miss which is odd. So we figured it was the plugs fouled out. Found out the builder put in the wrong plugs which were some NGK v groove gasketsed plugs he had laying around the shop or avail. Called AFR and they rec'd Autolite 3924s as AFR heads require a 3/4 reach and the NGKs were not. This is what im thinkin was my issue with the car not pulling out past 6k leaving power on the table. If the plugs were wrong they can cause timing to be pulled and pull back. Anyway hope that fixed that issue and get to tunning soon to get back on the dyno to see what kind of results i get along with the tune being right on the money.

 

How much more after a tune can you get out of this set up compared to a tune with the factory set up? I've seen this and always wondered about doing it but wondered if the money put into it is worth it.