starbucks

^^^ this guys alittle but shaper than the rest. And it was through an m6. Modifications are in my signature below.

TSAEB

iTrader: (5)

Go le2 you won't regret it . More then Plenty of guys have his heads/intake/cam set ups.

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

I see no such signature!

BOLO

iTrader: (40)

Come on guys, don't make this into another LE vs AI crapshootout. It's getting old. Both companies have proven quality workmanship, period. I think AI has one of the best H/C pkg for the LT1, but I'm quite happy with my LE set up running 11.0@122 on stock short block.

z28tommy

Thanks a lot for the help I didn't want to be a dispute about it but I think I'm gonna go with LE i've heard nothing but good about that man

bowtienut

iTrader: (1)

I'll try to stay out of the debate and just offer an answer to this part:
If 360 rwhp is enough for you, then the LE1's will be plenty. Even with a mild cam you'll surpass that number with competent assembly/build.
Also, if by "keep the bottom end stock", you mean not rebuilding it to handle higher revs, the LE1's make sense from that point as well.
But try to think ahead also .......will you eventually build the bottom end or stroke it? If so, then more head makes sense.

96lt1m6

iTrader: (31)

Since the topic is about a choice of Le1 or Le2 heads it should stay on that TOPIC!

The way I see it you should do the best to your heads as you can for.the money you have to spend on them and sometimes waiting to get that little extra is worth it..... Never turn down good HEAD, it will cost you no matter which way you go
Lastly, the ultimate decision is yours AFTER speaking to the man working your heads. Can't stress enough how important to have verbal contact with a man like Lloyd my very first conversation was as if he was a long lost family memeber of mine......Call Lloyd bro!

starbucks

Apparently when you use your phone your signature does not pop up so here is my signature for all to see. Also the car is no longer a 6 speed but a th350. “95 Trans Am, M6, LTTC coil pack setup ,Pacesetter Lt, electric water pump, custom cold air, Driveline solutions Ford 9 inch 4.33 gears, umi tunnel mount adj. torque arm, umi phb, umi lca, umi lca brackets. umi sub frame connectors. For the track rear pro stars on some hooser 28 x 10 slicks. Le2 heads Le1 cam (223/230) 42lb injectors and a freshly rebuild short block making 11.5 to 1 compression, tuned by Fresno Performance.” Oh and its is only a 355 with the stock rotaing assembly using forged pistons no stroker motor.
Also i have attached the dyno graph

z28tommy

I will be using the stock crank with new rod bearings and Mains..I was thinking on putting in new rods and just cleaning up the pistons I think I might go with the LE2..would I have change my clutch or our reuse the stock..would a mail order tune be good enough?

bowtienut

iTrader: (1)

If you're thinking mail order tune, then you're wasting a good bit of your money on a heads/cam setup. The LE1 vs LE2 question is a moot point in that case. A dyno tune will probably account for more hp than the difference in the heads would.

ahritchie

iTrader: (1)

You will certainly need a upgraded clutch....mail order tunes are just "ok"...really just good enough to get you to the dyno tuner. Expect bad gas mileage and less HP until you get a proper dyno tune or tune it yourself if you have the skills to do so.

z28tommy

Its kinda hard out here in Cali to find a dyno tuner that works lt's most just work the ls

ahritchie

iTrader: (1)

It's hard to find LT tuners anywhere....even in Charlotte NC which used to have plenty just a few years ago. But they are out there if you look hard enough...you may have to drive quite a ways. Or just do a LS swap lol

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

What I said was an f-body running 11.4 at 118mph does not back up 420+rwhp with unusually high torque number for a stock bottomend.

I made no suggestion that the OP pick anything else or that the product was bad or anything. Just pointed out that the track numbers don't match the dyno. Now with the dyno graph posted we can see it was STD correction which does inflate numbers some but still not to this level.


We have other examples of 42Xrwhp stock shortblocks making 38Xrwtq SAE running quicker and faster sometimes in heavier cars. Not saying mid 11s is bad for a 355 it is fine, but SAE on a properly setup dyno it is not 420+hp 400+tq .

I had a chart somewhere that suggested my old cam only setup made 509tq but I never claimed it was honest and never recommended that setup based on that.

starbucks

I think I am following you on what you are sayin that the mph unusually for the e.t but what I think might be getting lost I translation is that the Mph is all indicative of how the car 60 footed as well as how much the cars wieghed. Before switching to the th350 I had a hell of a time getting a good 60 foot out of the car hence the th350 with trans brake. What any drag racer will tell you by looking at these numbers is that te car is not working correctly and that is correct the car is extreamly ineficient at 60 foot. I will post up the time slip tonight when I have more time. I have a tone of 11.6 passes at 118 as well the will exemplify this point even further.

speed_demon24

iTrader: (6)

STD correction factor inflates the #'s. Here's my STD graph

Tolley's94z28

iTrader: (4)

If you are going to do top end, then why not pay just a bit more and go the extra distance?

wrd1972

iTrader: (12)

Respectfully, a 223/230 cam that peaks at 6K RPM making those numbers (even STD corrected) through a 9" is very VERY much above average, just saying. If your times are legit, congrats.

If Speed Demon24 strapped down to that dyno, he would likely make it into club 500.

starbucks

All right here is the best time slip I can find right now it is from the last time out with the m6 car went 11.63 @ 118 (which is pretty typical of the car to be honest) but I do have that 11.4 pass laying around here somewhere but I do have it documented in my log book, but seeing *** you guys already do not believe me for whatever reason im sure that will not fly .But for right now here is what I have I will post up the rest tomorrow if I have time.

Jon A

There's no data to support that or suggest anything is out of line. Speed Demon dynoed nearly 30 RWHP higher and on a really cold day in January trapped only 2 MPH higher. Given only that data, there's no reason to question either dyno--of course it's no mystery why Dwayne questioned this particular one, as usual.

As an aside (and I don't mean to single any particular person out but offer more of a general rant as everybody here seems to do it) it never ceases to amaze me how so many people here put so much blind faith into et and MPH in the 1/4 as a measure of engine performance (and quite often cylinder head performance specifically) as if it represents some sort of "comprehensive data" on the same.

The reality, of course, is those numbers are largely meaningless as a measure of engine performance without another 1/2 dozen data inputs (at least) with which to put them into a context where you can begin forming any "guesses" on engine performance from them.

A guy has a weather corrected number from a Dynojet called BS based upon an et an MPH in the 1/4. And nobody bothers to ask how heavy the car is, what elevation the track is at, was it 35 degrees or 95 degrees when running those numbers, etc....

Sorry for the rant, but as a technical person that sort of thing is just like fingernails on a chalkboard....