Got Tuned today...Now need experts help???
07-21-2012, 09:50 PM
#41
The knock sensitivity can be adjusted in the pcm, some reports indicate the LT4 module does NOT work right with the OBD1 pcms.
Far as over-advancing.
If the lack of a module caused it to revert to say lo-octane retard and was pulling max timing and the tuner put in enough to make it run well after max retard then I guess I would be concerned about what putting a module in would do. But in a case like that the commanded timing values would have been high enough to make the tuner stop and wonder why the engine wanted so much. I want to say max retard in stock tuning is like 7 degrees. If it was pulling max timing and the tuner tuned around it he would have noticed or should have at least.
Far as over-advancing.
If the lack of a module caused it to revert to say lo-octane retard and was pulling max timing and the tuner put in enough to make it run well after max retard then I guess I would be concerned about what putting a module in would do. But in a case like that the commanded timing values would have been high enough to make the tuner stop and wonder why the engine wanted so much. I want to say max retard in stock tuning is like 7 degrees. If it was pulling max timing and the tuner tuned around it he would have noticed or should have at least.
07-22-2012, 08:11 PM
#44
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So to answer a few questions for you... I'm running a sock rear with 3.73 gears and a 275/60-15 MT street tire. Running a Walbro 255 pump with 42 lbs injectors. All the fuel seems good. Psi checks out all the way through the pulls to 6300.
Now since everyone said it and the hard on I had to day.. I went to a local 1/8 mile track.. here's the numbers :-)
8.28 @ 86 mom
2.05 sixty foot
The car felt strong coming out the whole with a little spin, but when shifted to second it falls on its face and feels sluggish as hell. I shifted at 6100 and it would drop second gear to 4000 rpms and slowly pull back up..
This was the first time out on a new motor with a little less than 200 miles on it. However comparing to my came only setup before its only 4mph quicker and 3 tenths of a second faster. Cam only setup also made 318 / 322 with the same rear end, cam only, bolt ons, through a 4l60e and a 2800 converter.
So now what do you guys think?
Now since everyone said it and the hard on I had to day.. I went to a local 1/8 mile track.. here's the numbers :-)
8.28 @ 86 mom
2.05 sixty foot
The car felt strong coming out the whole with a little spin, but when shifted to second it falls on its face and feels sluggish as hell. I shifted at 6100 and it would drop second gear to 4000 rpms and slowly pull back up..
This was the first time out on a new motor with a little less than 200 miles on it. However comparing to my came only setup before its only 4mph quicker and 3 tenths of a second faster. Cam only setup also made 318 / 322 with the same rear end, cam only, bolt ons, through a 4l60e and a 2800 converter.
So now what do you guys think?
Just my 2 cents 
07-23-2012, 09:35 PM
#46
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Thanks for the help and suggestions gents. As for the 10bolt I know it will get destroyed once the car hooks well. I biggest thing was to get the motor in and running well before swapping out for a 12 bolt. Plans for it real soon.
So for an update. I found my old Tech1 scan tool and started checking the timing advance. Turns up to running around 34 degrees at idle. Does anyone know what this should be for a good starting point? I ordered the cables and download tuner cats so I should have that up and running as well within the next week or two. I want to try to get ready to get this thing dialed in during the track time on my own. Can anyone provide a little advice concerning my timing and where to start? Thanks
So for an update. I found my old Tech1 scan tool and started checking the timing advance. Turns up to running around 34 degrees at idle. Does anyone know what this should be for a good starting point? I ordered the cables and download tuner cats so I should have that up and running as well within the next week or two. I want to try to get ready to get this thing dialed in during the track time on my own. Can anyone provide a little advice concerning my timing and where to start? Thanks
07-25-2012, 02:52 PM
#47
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Ok, so last night I decided to to check some things out and turns out that i had a code 33 on the DTC. So with that I picked up a new connector and map sensor and put on the car. After changing that out started checking the spark advance and such again. The knock retard was at 0 until throttle was applied during throttle it would range from 0-12 degrees of retard and the advance was idle around 28-29 with a increase to 39 or so during throttle. Can anyone tell me what exactly I need to look for with this or what I should do to ensure the timing is correct or close at least. Is this safe or not? Anyone with advice or experience? Thanks.
08-07-2012, 11:13 PM
#48
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Well now back to square one.. I recently installed the LT4 knock module which seemed to help out a ton.. No according to my Tecch1 scan tool, I'm reading 0 retard at idle and under throttle it seems to be pulling about 1-2 degrees.. Car feels much better in the seat, so my question is should this be retuned again to max the timing for performance or should the PCM correct for the timing on its own?
What do you guys think?
What do you guys think?
08-09-2012, 02:43 AM
#50
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Judging by your torque curve I was going to guess ignition. If the lt4 knock module helped, great! If you return to the dyno and still can't seem to remove the fluctuations and get the torque curve to at least look the way it should here are a couple other things to look at.
I'd like to know more on the top end. Cam specs, spring specs, hydraulic or solid. Also what is the chamber volume on the afr's. From what I remember theyre usually larger than stock.
11.6:1 compression may not be high enough for your cam choice and your desired shift point.
Also I've had springs play riddles with a motor because of certain characteristics, resonance or just not right for the app.
I had an opti that ran smooth as silk and the car would cut out at 6200rpm. I changed a bunch of stuff and found out that one of the plastic buttons that holds the rotor on broke off and the rotor was fluttering.
Hope some of this helps. Let me know what you find.
I'd like to know more on the top end. Cam specs, spring specs, hydraulic or solid. Also what is the chamber volume on the afr's. From what I remember theyre usually larger than stock.
11.6:1 compression may not be high enough for your cam choice and your desired shift point.
Also I've had springs play riddles with a motor because of certain characteristics, resonance or just not right for the app.
I had an opti that ran smooth as silk and the car would cut out at 6200rpm. I changed a bunch of stuff and found out that one of the plastic buttons that holds the rotor on broke off and the rotor was fluttering.
Hope some of this helps. Let me know what you find.
08-09-2012, 05:03 PM
#51
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Judging by your torque curve I was going to guess ignition. If the lt4 knock module helped, great! If you return to the dyno and still can't seem to remove the fluctuations and get the torque curve to at least look the way it should here are a couple other things to look at.
I'd like to know more on the top end. Cam specs, spring specs, hydraulic or solid. Also what is the chamber volume on the afr's. From what I remember theyre usually larger than stock.
11.6:1 compression may not be high enough for your cam choice and your desired shift point.
Also I've had springs play riddles with a motor because of certain characteristics, resonance or just not right for the app.
I had an opti that ran smooth as silk and the car would cut out at 6200rpm. I changed a bunch of stuff and found out that one of the plastic buttons that holds the rotor on broke off and the rotor was fluttering.
Hope some of this helps. Let me know what you find.
I'd like to know more on the top end. Cam specs, spring specs, hydraulic or solid. Also what is the chamber volume on the afr's. From what I remember theyre usually larger than stock.
11.6:1 compression may not be high enough for your cam choice and your desired shift point.
Also I've had springs play riddles with a motor because of certain characteristics, resonance or just not right for the app.
I had an opti that ran smooth as silk and the car would cut out at 6200rpm. I changed a bunch of stuff and found out that one of the plastic buttons that holds the rotor on broke off and the rotor was fluttering.
Hope some of this helps. Let me know what you find.
As for the opti, weput lock tight on the bolts and sealed before install so that should be a problem. Thanks for the help and please keep it coming so I can learn some more from you guys....lol
09-20-2012, 08:45 PM
#52
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loose the opti go to a distributor and get a 411 ECU, it will be way easer to dial in. and might run a little better. definatly cheaper than 2 Opti No Sparks, I know, I did it, runs like a beast.
09-20-2012, 09:13 PM
#53
The OP's setup isn't that radical, anyone competent should be able to make an opti live on his setup. As covered in at least one recent thread opti problems are more often owner incompetence than anything else. Yes there are guys pushing high rpm and high current hurting them but those are the exception not the rule.
Not to mention the clearance issues of a rear mounted distributor in an f-body.
Not to mention the clearance issues of a rear mounted distributor in an f-body.
09-20-2012, 10:15 PM
#55
I did not read all of this just till the dyno graph
Your heads and intake are killing you pull 388ci of air through them and are all done. look at the dyno sheet and it is plain as day. You might crutch around it a bit but you need more air. I played with this issue years ago and got around it but it was not cheap. Probably one of the few setts of stock casting with 210cc intake runers and 300CFM flow at .600 lift
Your heads and intake are killing you pull 388ci of air through them and are all done. look at the dyno sheet and it is plain as day. You might crutch around it a bit but you need more air. I played with this issue years ago and got around it but it was not cheap. Probably one of the few setts of stock casting with 210cc intake runers and 300CFM flow at .600 lift
