LT1 block strength
Twin Turbo 396 LTx with 1000hp sounds nice, but if I cant keep A/C (Its hot down here) I will just spray the **** out of it. Ive got 2 stages already Might as well get a Direct Port next!! LoL If he wants to make big power, the LT1 is going to be an uphill battle. BBC if he is looking for that much. As for getting it to the ground that is going to depend entirely on his setup.
I don't want to be cliché and say that 1500hp is "Easy" with a BBC...but it is a hell of a lot easier then with an LT1, SBC, or even LSx.
Coming from my own personal experience, with my 396 n/a thats puts out 550 hp at the flywheel, im having a hard time getting all that to stay down. I have the suspension, the rear, and i just busted my t56. From the time time i started my project to now, and 20k later, i scratch my head and say "wtf" . With that being said my car is not all that street drivable. 1st is non existence and if im not shifting at 4000 rpm the motor is not happy. Yeah my car gets the head turns and guys that pull along side of me wont try to run with me (i guess they know that its not just some cat back system slapped on the car) but someone will always be faster ie. Ls setups. And yes i to plan on doing a ls setup on a 02 ss but again someone will always be faster and if not faster, they will be able to get their power down on the pavement and keep it there. Goodluck with your planning i would love to someone do and tell me how they did it.
build a motor to have fun with now........then sell the entire thing and start over......plan on well in excess of a 50k budget to do the motor and the car to handle the power then about another 10k in safety modifications to run it down the track.........the LT1 block even filled is going to start twisting and shifting badly above that 1100rwhp or so limit......its just like a standard SBC 4 bolt block.......personally i think youd be nuts to try it without tearing it down every 50 passes or so......like said before a dart little M block or equalivent should be in your future as well as billet rods/crank/pistons billet 4 bolt mains front to rear.....you will need 8k in parts to build the shortblock correctly..........i have a friend of mine making 1300 at the motor with a 427 Little M blocked sbc with a set of twins on it......i was there for the build and i did the tuning.......just dont plan over your head its a VERY tall order to make that kind of power durably
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Verdad Gallardo build a motor to have fun with now........then sell the entire thing and start over......plan on well in excess of a 50k budget to do the motor and the car to handle the power then about another 10k in safety modifications to run it down the track.........the LT1 block even filled is going to start twisting and shifting badly above that 1100rwhp or so limit......its just like a standard SBC 4 bolt block.......personally i think youd be nuts to try it without tearing it down every 50 passes or so......like said before a dart little M block or equalivent should be in your future as well as billet rods/crank/pistons billet 4 bolt mains front to rear.....you will need 8k in parts to build the shortblock correctly..........i have a friend of mine making 1300 at the motor with a 427 Little M blocked sbc with a set of twins on it......i was there for the build and i did the tuning.......just dont plan over your head its a VERY tall order to make that kind of power durably
Not tryin to kill anyones dreams ,But ya might wanna rethink a few thing That & your GM buddies better have an Ultra Rare big bore GM Race Shop block!!!!! ^^^^^^ Well put!!! Ive planned & bought things since last Oct. 1000hp rated parts Only live at that power level with spot on tunes Plus require way more maint.... That being said Unless this kids got DEEP POCKETS He wont afford routine maint on a 1000+ horsepower machine HELL 600hp on the motor & spray is enuff to keep up with LoL 8 & 9 second LT1/LT4 combos arent much fun in city traffic LoL Like stated above Build a Forged motor & have fun with it Youll win some & get beat some, But it wont be as bad as spendin 40k & havin your *** handed to ya Not tryin to kill anyones dreams ,But ya might wanna rethink a few thing That & your GM buddies better have an Ultra Rare big bore GM Race Shop block!!!!!
Not tryin to kill anyones dreams ,But ya might wanna rethink a few thing That & your GM buddies better have an Ultra Rare big bore GM Race Shop block!!!!!
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
From: new york
i was told by karl ellwein, who built my motor, that my 383 4 bolt main would run into issues with the block twisting around 800hp with stock main caps. thats what he called pushing the limit. my engine started life as a GM 4 bolt main factory replacement motor. they are supposedly cast with a little bit stronger material by the mains. you plan on going double that? even with billet mains, i dont see how it will preserve that block.
The LT1 4-bolt is the same casting as the 2-bolt. The "stronger in the main web" is an old gen 1 thing blindly applied to the LT1 so the Vette guys could feel a little superior about their "special blocks".
AGAIN the "splayed is stronger" can be traced back to older gen 1 stuff where the main web was a bit thin and they splayed the aftermarket caps to get into more meat out at the sides of the block. Then people just blindly apply it to the LT1 too.
There are reasonable arguments for both straight and splayed caps, IMO nobody really knows because the bores will wiggle and the rest of the block show issues before quality aftermarket caps of either style will be a problem.
There are reasonable arguments for both straight and splayed caps, IMO nobody really knows because the bores will wiggle and the rest of the block show issues before quality aftermarket caps of either style will be a problem.
When talking about the rotating assembly of a LT1 block, it's the same as an old school SBC.
I believe splayed is more ridged as it pulls from three different directions. Plus it pulls from the sides of the case.
Pretty much any aftermarket high performance block is gonna have splayed mains, not straight four bolt caps.
I believe splayed is more ridged as it pulls from three different directions. Plus it pulls from the sides of the case.
Pretty much any aftermarket high performance block is gonna have splayed mains, not straight four bolt caps.
Yes the rotating assembly is pretty much gen 1 SBC but the block is not the same casting and is not the same casting as aftermarket SBC block either.
The guys that argue straight is better in this block sight the fact GM knew they were installing 4-bolts on the Vette and designed the web for straight.
Like I said though in the real world I don't think there is a tangible difference as other things will be a problem first so long as the caps of either design are quality and installed/machined for correctly.
If you want to bring in other blocks as arguments why when they redesigned the smallblock did the LS get 4 straight and 2 lateral? If splayed were the ultimate then they could have designed it with splayed. Hell they went 6-bolt even with a structural oilpan.
The guys that argue straight is better in this block sight the fact GM knew they were installing 4-bolts on the Vette and designed the web for straight.
Like I said though in the real world I don't think there is a tangible difference as other things will be a problem first so long as the caps of either design are quality and installed/machined for correctly.
If you want to bring in other blocks as arguments why when they redesigned the smallblock did the LS get 4 straight and 2 lateral? If splayed were the ultimate then they could have designed it with splayed. Hell they went 6-bolt even with a structural oilpan.