crank hub

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07-31-2012, 08:35 PM

killerz97

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crank hub

Does a 97z28 use a key on the crank for crank hub? Also is the crank hub different from a 97 to the earlier cars? Thanks

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07-31-2012, 08:46 PM

BOLO

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Yes, they are and slightly shorter in length than the earlier 93-95. The 96-97 crankshaft hub are the same. Hope this help.

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07-31-2012, 08:46 PM

tonskiguy

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This should answer your question,
http://shbox.com/1/engine_front_diagram.jpg

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07-31-2012, 09:01 PM

killerz97

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Thanks guys for quick responses. Somehow mine came off while driving so now I am sourcing all the parts. I can't figure out why the bolt came out cause I know I tightened it, but oh well.

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08-01-2012, 08:06 AM

SS RRR

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Quote:

Originally Posted by killerz97

Thanks guys for quick responses. Somehow mine came off while driving so now I am sourcing all the parts. I can't figure out why the bolt came out cause I know I tightened it, but oh well.

What did you torque the bolt to? Is the bolt you are using a stock bolt with the thick washer?

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08-01-2012, 03:03 PM

killerz97

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Ok I'm a little confused right now my crank is cut for a key but I emailed a company called trans am creations and the guy told me "The LT1 does not use a key. The crank is machined for a key because it is also used in other applications. The hubs are not machined for a key." Also the picture on shbox shows it using a key. Is this guy wrong? And yes I believe it was the original bolt with the spacer.

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08-01-2012, 03:15 PM

shbox

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Quote:

Originally Posted by killerz97

You are being told all the correct information. The key used (and shown on my site) is for the crank gear with the timing set-not for the hub. The crank has a forward key slot-not used, and a rear slot-used for the crank gear key.

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08-01-2012, 03:22 PM

killerz97

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Ok thank you shbox. Should I use an original bolt or get an ARP bolt to replace the hub bolt?

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08-01-2012, 04:48 PM

shbox

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Quote:

Originally Posted by killerz97

Ok thank you shbox. Should I use an original bolt or get an ARP bolt to replace the hub bolt?

You can't go wrong with an ARP bolt, if you need a new one (or at least a new, stock bolt, if you are worried about it.

It truly sucks if you break one.

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08-01-2012, 07:54 PM

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Paul Bell

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This was not answered definitively so I will. The LT1 balancer hub is not machined for a key. Many retailers and sponsors here offer hubs machined with the keyway allowing you to use an old school SBC key. Required for SC cars.

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08-02-2012, 01:27 AM

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killerz97

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Thank you Paul I appreciate everybody's input. Found one for sale locally and hope to have the car going again tomorrow.

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08-02-2012, 10:51 AM

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killerz97

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How does the hub go on? Since the front is neutral balanced does it matter which way the arrow points?

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08-02-2012, 10:54 AM

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Paul Bell

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I have a thing in a book that says how it should be orientated, I'll post it up later after work.

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08-02-2012, 10:58 AM

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shbox

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Quote:

Originally Posted by killerz97

How does the hub go on? Since the front is neutral balanced does it matter which way the arrow points?

Arrow at 12 o'clock when at #1 or #6 TDC. Crank key at 1:30.

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08-02-2012, 11:00 AM

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Rob94hawk

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Quote:

Originally Posted by killerz97

How does the hub go on? Since the front is neutral balanced does it matter which way the arrow points?

Yes the front is neutral the rear is not. Hold on, I'll look in one of these two gigantic manuals....

Page 6A3A-12

Quote:

Match mark crankshaft hub to engine front cover assembly

Quote:

The crankshaft hub can be installed by a different procedure if the engine should be accidental be cranked over after match marking the hub and engine front cover assembly.

A. Set number 1 piston assembly to Top Dead Center.
B. Install crankshaft bub with cast arrow on hub in the 12 o'clock position

Hope this helps.

Last edited by Rob94hawk; 08-02-2012 at 11:15 AM.