Jason E

At the cruise night earlier, I talked to the dad of a kid I went to school with that has owned/beaten/tried to kill a 98 TA since 2000 or so. He has shattered clutch disks...bent pushrods...blown T-56s...just all-out mashed this car running 13 flats when nearly stock, and 12.5s with H/C (no idea why he can't run harder...its gotta be in his tune).

He never actually killed his 10 bolt. He runs a Moser 12 bolt only because he got a steal on one.

BTW, get the 3 season Conti Extremes. I am normally all about BFGs and Goodyears...I bought these on a whim through Discount Tire on eBay. I paid $600 for a set of 4 275/40s. Best tire purchase ever, hands down. These things are awesome...

CamaroRacing12

iTrader: (5)

I was going to say mike v might do the job for you if he has the time plus he is boys with phil at AI so he might be able to hook you up. Shoot him a pm.

Jason E

1) I plan to get the integrated cats with my SW LTs...I appreciate the offer, however.

2) The LT1 heads, however, I will PM you about soon. I definitely want a second set...20 years from now, if I wanna make this thing stock for some unknown reason, I want all my original equipment to be able to throw back on.

3) There seems to be some disagreement here. Do I need bigger injectors? Fuel pump? Some say yes to injectors, no to everything else. Others have said I don't even need injectors.

This part confuses me more than anything. As for Slohawk, I thought about him, as he isn't that far away...but I noticed his site has no LT info

Jason E

Thanks for the referral! Will do...I take it he is in MA somewhere? Does he have his own shop?

supernaturalta

iTrader: (6)

I changed my injectors from stock to the red top SVO 30lb/hr and had Madtuner re-tune my PCM for them; the car didn't pick up anything on the track. The only change I noticed is that the car seems to drink a little more fuel now, so I plan on putting the stockers back in.
I'd imagine if you were running a stroker with more cam, then you'd need them, but for the fairly mild build you're doing, the stock 24lb/hr injectors should be enough IMO.

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

I'd go 3.42s with MT ET streets 26x10.5r16 on those stock rims you have, the 3.42s have less(thicker) teeth, and the bias ply ET streets will give much more cushion on launch and powershifting at the track than drag radials. It's a rule of thumb, auto: drag radials, m6: bias ply

Also, with 370 rwhp and 3600lb race weight which is looking like where you will be with your build, you will easily beat the 350rwhp 4100lb race weight ls3 powered m6 5th gen, and CRUSH the l99 powered auto 5th gens

CamaroRacing12

iTrader: (5)

Mike V is quik95lt1 on this forum. he is in Cranston RI and dosen;t have his own shop but has has taken orders to build shortblocks for members. He is a smahht basterd and a great builder. His car speaks for itself. 9 sec NA LT1. You can try pming him he might do the work on your car.

He will be tuning my car next year.

quik95lt1

iTrader: (7)

i say go big or go home here in RI if you are OBDII you dont go on the sniffer all they do is plug into the ecm and look for it to pass tests.........i run my ls2 gto i drive every day with a 226/234 .600 112lsa AI cam and hollowed out cats......passed inspection just fine they plugged in and the ecm didn't have any codes......little did they know i just shut them all off the maf wasn't even plugged in lol...........back to my go big or go home satement id run the AI 200cc head program with the 226/234 cam if it were me, swap out the stock high mileage lifters for some ls7's and replace the timing chain.........but again........thats me lol

http://advancedinduction.com/LTX/AiL...Kits.php#LT200

basically run this......its got everything included, heads, springs, retiner, locks, pushrods, rockers, studs, guideplates, all gaskets, ls7 lifters, head bolts, its all there ready to go.....

Jason E

^^Mike,

Thanks for the input...after spending another night on the internet (this **** is addictive when you start, and there's so much to learn!!), I have decided the AI 200cc kit is my best option. Any personal advice on tuning options, and fuel delivery? I can't seem to come up with a straight answer on injectors/fuel pump. Is Madtuner my best option, in lieu of there being no real dyno shops I've come across yet?

For everyone else, thanks again very much. I plan to call LE and AI within the next week, but I think I will be going with AI. I really need to talk to them about cam specs...I like Mike's "go big or go home" thought process, as that's where I started. At the same point, I plan to drive this car for fun a good 5k miles next year...as I have the feeling once I get this thing back, I'm gonna wanna enjoy it

I think I'm ditching the 4.10 idea at this point, and will revisit it if/when the 10 bolt breaks. bufmat, thanks for the info on E/T streets vs. DRs...I did not know that. I think a 3.42/ET Street combo is probably best for me. I know 4.10s would be fun, but if the above was true, 4 MPG loss is not worth it.

On that note, how much MPG will I be losing with Mike's proposed engine setup, sticking with 3.42s? I know its hard to estimate, and its secondary to the goal here...but I am curious to hear from those that have been down a similar road.

quik95lt1

iTrader: (7)

i can do the tuning if you like on the car when you are ready.........as for mpg's that goes with the go big or go home thought process LOL

z_speedfreak

iTrader: (3)

I 2nd the 226/234 super flat tq curve!

quik95lt1

iTrader: (7)

i know its apples to oranges but i love the one in my gto....cars got boat loads of torque around 2500......still gets 25mpg on the highway and pulls hard up to 6700 or so.....425 to the wheel and mpg ill take it!!

z_speedfreak

iTrader: (3)

with just the cam and fast 90? damn LSx's

quik95lt1

iTrader: (7)

yup headers cam and a fast 90.........and the clutch was bad at that time....now it got a alum fly with a mecclod rst and a new ported fast 102 on it....id expect 435 ish out of it

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

I know you mentioned a $5000 limit in the beginning of the thread, has that budget expanded? The AI kit is going to come out to $3100 after taxes and shipping, and you still need headers with a catted Y pipe ($700 at least because cats are expensive, I dont know why you want cats though), tune ($3-400), Ford SVO 30lb injectors ($300), a set of stock castings and intake ($250), $400 intake porting, clutch ($300 if you go with a Competition clutches stage 2.5), ET streets ($400), AND you were talking about having someone else do the labor, which will probably be at least 16 hours (low estimate), at $100 an hour (high estimate).

What you are doing is what I WISH I could do to my car, I would go with the 226/234 cam also. Good luck with your build, Im excited to see how daily driveable it really is with this power level.

If you are really confined to that $5000 budget, this kit might be better for you
http://advancedinduction.com/LTX/AiLTxCamKit.php

With some 0.026" head gaskets and the 226/234 cam, one guy made over 360rwhp with just that kit. You would be leaving about 40-50 horsepower on the table by not getting the heads, but you would save $2000, and you could always add it later. You also wouldnt need injectors because the stock 24s would be ok for this level, or the $400 intake porting, or the castings, so you save almost $3000, PLUS the reduced installation cost.

*edit* he made 370rwhp, here is his thread, dont mind his track numbers, at sea level with ET streets that would be a solid 11 second car.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...ery-happy.html

z_speedfreak

iTrader: (3)

used used used! I picked up my SVO's for $150, freshly coated pacesetters for $250, if he wanted my cat $50, Josh(STOCKTA) could port his intake for less(forget what he charges), solomon(LT1pcmtuning.com) does killer tunes for $180.. so figure maybe $950ish roughly (cause I'm not sure about Josh's rate) as opposed to $1700 for those items.. but labor is gonna be the killer.
226/234 p0rn> https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...ery-happy.html
edit:^lol beat me to it!
double edit: jason come join http://www.northeastf-bodyassn.com/f...splay.php?f=30

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

He doesnt sound like he wants used, and I quoted the high header price because his car is "extremely clean", he probably wants to keep it that way. I for one LOVE used crap, hell I would get the heads and cam used too. If he really wants to get the most MPG and driveability then a mail order is kinda out too, best to get it really tuned. A real catted Y pipe, like the one from LPP or Kooks is between $4-600, plus the $4-700 for some stainless or coated headers to match. Just slapping a stock cat at the end of an ORY is a hack job, and wouldnt clear the floor because it would be out of that "pocket" under the passengers feet.

Either way, of all of the grinds Ive seen people use across this board, that AI 226/234 is the **** IMO.

z_speedfreak

iTrader: (3)

used engine parts aren't gonna take away from how clean his car is, either way if he wants all that stuff done and has a $5000 budget hes gonna have to find some bargains. theres always those LPP header ebay knock offs too

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

If budget is a concern I would skip intake porting. As it says on the intake porting page the 190-200cc heads come corrected for geometry already.

I would not have a car that modified unless I could do the work myself.

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

+1

In all reality if you are not going to do the work yourself and are just looking for the finished product, I would sell your clean car, and buy ramair95TA's car. Its already done with a AI 200cc heads/cam and a forged 383 with about everything else you could do to it. Just swap it to a 6 speed and your good to go.