Dyno time, What number should I expect?
10-09-2012 | 01:45 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 269
Likes: 3
From: Attica, IN
Dyno time, What number should I expect? Ok so I got a 93 formula 6 speed bored to 355, bigger throttle body, hooker comp headers, 3" Magnaflow exhaust sys., cold air intake, bigger injectors with adjustable fuel regulator, and a tune. I was wanting to see what every thinks I'm going to put down.
10-09-2012 | 02:52 PM
#3
Based on the little info you gave I am going to say you will be lucky to make 290rwhp. If you actually did ported heads and cam and left out that most important of information then that number could be 420+rwhp easily as stock shortblocks make that and the 355 could provide some benefits if done well.
Making it a 355 doesn't add power, hell if you used some crappy old design cheap pistons with real thick rings and weighing 15-20% more than stock and then lowered the compression as sometimes people do not realizing what the compression can and should be you could endup behind where a stock engine with the same boltons would be.
Bigger TB wont do much if the heads are unported and cam/valvetrain are stock. From what you have said the bigger injectors would be a simple waste of money and the adjustable regulator provides needless complication and increased likelyhood of failure.
Exhaust system is fine.
I suppose if the heads are unported stock and you had them rebuilt with new springs you would gain some rpm and therefore performance potential.
If you did have the heads ported and redid the valvetrain with an aftermarket cam and such well then that information is VASTLY more important than the fact you had it bored to a 355 and you should include that info for anyone to be able to make a projection on. Cam specs should be duration lift and LSA telling us "I put a .550/.560 lift cam in" doesn't mean much since HP is dependent on rpm and a 210degree intake duration cam wont turn the rpm a 230degree cam will and even if they made the same torque the HP number would be a lot different.
Making it a 355 doesn't add power, hell if you used some crappy old design cheap pistons with real thick rings and weighing 15-20% more than stock and then lowered the compression as sometimes people do not realizing what the compression can and should be you could endup behind where a stock engine with the same boltons would be.
Bigger TB wont do much if the heads are unported and cam/valvetrain are stock. From what you have said the bigger injectors would be a simple waste of money and the adjustable regulator provides needless complication and increased likelyhood of failure.
Exhaust system is fine.
I suppose if the heads are unported stock and you had them rebuilt with new springs you would gain some rpm and therefore performance potential.
If you did have the heads ported and redid the valvetrain with an aftermarket cam and such well then that information is VASTLY more important than the fact you had it bored to a 355 and you should include that info for anyone to be able to make a projection on. Cam specs should be duration lift and LSA telling us "I put a .550/.560 lift cam in" doesn't mean much since HP is dependent on rpm and a 210degree intake duration cam wont turn the rpm a 230degree cam will and even if they made the same torque the HP number would be a lot different.
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10-09-2012 | 06:52 PM
#8
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 269
Likes: 3
From: Attica, IN
Based on the little info you gave I am going to say you will be lucky to make 290rwhp. If you actually did ported heads and cam and left out that most important of information then that number could be 420+rwhp easily as stock shortblocks make that and the 355 could provide some benefits if done well.
Making it a 355 doesn't add power, hell if you used some crappy old design cheap pistons with real thick rings and weighing 15-20% more than stock and then lowered the compression as sometimes people do not realizing what the compression can and should be you could endup behind where a stock engine with the same boltons would be.
Bigger TB wont do much if the heads are unported and cam/valvetrain are stock. From what you have said the bigger injectors would be a simple waste of money and the adjustable regulator provides needless complication and increased likelyhood of failure.
Exhaust system is fine.
I suppose if the heads are unported stock and you had them rebuilt with new springs you would gain some rpm and therefore performance potential.
If you did have the heads ported and redid the valvetrain with an aftermarket cam and such well then that information is VASTLY more important than the fact you had it bored to a 355 and you should include that info for anyone to be able to make a projection on. Cam specs should be duration lift and LSA telling us "I put a .550/.560 lift cam in" doesn't mean much since HP is dependent on rpm and a 210degree intake duration cam wont turn the rpm a 230degree cam will and even if they made the same torque the HP number would be a lot different.
Making it a 355 doesn't add power, hell if you used some crappy old design cheap pistons with real thick rings and weighing 15-20% more than stock and then lowered the compression as sometimes people do not realizing what the compression can and should be you could endup behind where a stock engine with the same boltons would be.
Bigger TB wont do much if the heads are unported and cam/valvetrain are stock. From what you have said the bigger injectors would be a simple waste of money and the adjustable regulator provides needless complication and increased likelyhood of failure.
Exhaust system is fine.
I suppose if the heads are unported stock and you had them rebuilt with new springs you would gain some rpm and therefore performance potential.
If you did have the heads ported and redid the valvetrain with an aftermarket cam and such well then that information is VASTLY more important than the fact you had it bored to a 355 and you should include that info for anyone to be able to make a projection on. Cam specs should be duration lift and LSA telling us "I put a .550/.560 lift cam in" doesn't mean much since HP is dependent on rpm and a 210degree intake duration cam wont turn the rpm a 230degree cam will and even if they made the same torque the HP number would be a lot different.
Last edited by zboy2012; 10-09-2012 at 08:05 PM.
10-09-2012 | 08:24 PM
#11
320-330.
If the head and cam details weren't the FIRST details you thought to share you probably don't know enough to have done this all that well. Just a guess based on more than a decade on various forums. Your posting about the 355 part as if it were important and leaving out the heads and cam says you are completely green here and likely didn't have the right guidance, as does the choice in getting the whole HOT kit.
The performance will likely fall off on the topend as you get some miles on it, then you can go back and put some more appropriate springs in it. The "kit" springs are OK for the LT4 heads with their hollow intake valves and sodium filled exhaust but the LT1 valves are heavier meaning they need more spring for the same cam to remain under control to the same rpm. I know GM sells the kit that way but they also sell the Ramjet 502 with a LT1/TPI TB. Those rockers will need to be replaced if you get serious later, they are lift limited by a short slot to .550-.575 depending on the source of the info. Honestly I always tell people to go straight to 7/16" stud setup because we all keep chasing more and more power and now when you upgrade later you are going to have to start from scratch on the valvetrain rather than having built in a little overkill that could grow with you.
Sorry if you don't like the answers or attitude but we all get frigging tired of the newbs who ask questions after it is too late to help them or the ones who ask questions first but only want blind support for whatever missguided ideas they have.
If you get the 340-345hp I will genuinely be happy for you please do share.
If the head and cam details weren't the FIRST details you thought to share you probably don't know enough to have done this all that well. Just a guess based on more than a decade on various forums. Your posting about the 355 part as if it were important and leaving out the heads and cam says you are completely green here and likely didn't have the right guidance, as does the choice in getting the whole HOT kit.
The performance will likely fall off on the topend as you get some miles on it, then you can go back and put some more appropriate springs in it. The "kit" springs are OK for the LT4 heads with their hollow intake valves and sodium filled exhaust but the LT1 valves are heavier meaning they need more spring for the same cam to remain under control to the same rpm. I know GM sells the kit that way but they also sell the Ramjet 502 with a LT1/TPI TB. Those rockers will need to be replaced if you get serious later, they are lift limited by a short slot to .550-.575 depending on the source of the info. Honestly I always tell people to go straight to 7/16" stud setup because we all keep chasing more and more power and now when you upgrade later you are going to have to start from scratch on the valvetrain rather than having built in a little overkill that could grow with you.
Sorry if you don't like the answers or attitude but we all get frigging tired of the newbs who ask questions after it is too late to help them or the ones who ask questions first but only want blind support for whatever missguided ideas they have.
If you get the 340-345hp I will genuinely be happy for you please do share.
10-09-2012 | 08:53 PM
#12
Hotcam only stock rebuild 355 eh? Ill give you the benefit of the doubt that you didnt get it built by an old schooler who kept your compression below 10:1, and sayyyyyy 330 rwhp.
