Connecting Rods for High HP Build and Intake
12-23-2012, 10:35 AM
#21
Just to be clear I did not mean to imply tension was the ONLY stress on a rod, just given the higher end stuff you were looking at as a base in the Howard's billet I think those are more than adequate. I wouldn't go throwing a $250 set of chinese rods in a big boost motor just because the rpm was kept low.
12-23-2012, 11:02 AM
#22
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100% agree. Tension is not the only stress on the rod but I feel like people tend to overlook it alot. It can easily fatigue the rod just like high cylinder pressures just in a different way. Large boosted pistons with oversized pin's definitely aren't the easiest things on the rods.
Also there are a few things I've ran across with people talking about breaking howards/callies billet rods. Nothing about anyone loosing an oliver rod, the olivers are only 250 more from flatlander racing. They are a smaller company which can give you a little discomfort, but they are local and American made. Then again I think Dyer's is pretty small too.
Also there are a few things I've ran across with people talking about breaking howards/callies billet rods. Nothing about anyone loosing an oliver rod, the olivers are only 250 more from flatlander racing. They are a smaller company which can give you a little discomfort, but they are local and American made. Then again I think Dyer's is pretty small too.
Last edited by Radcannon; 12-23-2012 at 11:11 AM.
12-24-2012, 07:30 AM
#23
as for rods you cant beat the olivers....you'll pay for them but they're the best billet steel rod out there imo (excluding lentz and the cup series stuff $$$$$).....i been running mine for 5 years now at 8000+rpm with in the 700hp range at the fly and they are perfect
12-24-2012, 09:14 AM
#24
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I am going to for go debating with idiots and just post my combo that ran 8.90 at 153. @ 3500lbs
heads afr210(old castings)
383" eagle crank,manley h beams (6") j&e blower pistons.
comp hr 468 grind.
home ported gm lt4 intake.
vortech ysi 70k making 21psi
shifted it at 6700.
fast classic in control.
heads afr210(old castings)
383" eagle crank,manley h beams (6") j&e blower pistons.
comp hr 468 grind.
home ported gm lt4 intake.
vortech ysi 70k making 21psi
shifted it at 6700.
fast classic in control.
12-24-2012, 10:39 AM
#25
Who/what are you not arguing with?
For that to be 1000fwhp it needs to be 3600lbs. I don't know anything about your car, is it that heavy?
That is a surprisingly low rpm to be turning to run that sort of time is that truly as high as the engine revs or just when you start the shift? He could take note of the LT4 intake since half the folks around here want to tell everyone that anything beyond heads/cam "needs" a carbed intake swap.
For that to be 1000fwhp it needs to be 3600lbs. I don't know anything about your car, is it that heavy?
That is a surprisingly low rpm to be turning to run that sort of time is that truly as high as the engine revs or just when you start the shift? He could take note of the LT4 intake since half the folks around here want to tell everyone that anything beyond heads/cam "needs" a carbed intake swap.
12-24-2012, 12:10 PM
#26
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Kind of showing me what my biggest concern was. Do I have enough blower even with the mods I've done to help it out? BIGCAT are you running a cogged setup on yours?
Oliver rods it is. Now to take the short block back apart... was looking so good too.
Oliver rods it is. Now to take the short block back apart... was looking so good too.
12-24-2012, 03:08 PM
#29
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8 rib serp. asp 8.5" lower wheel and a 2.95 upper. i tried running a 2.75 wheel but it killed a belt ever 5th run. i switched back to the 2.95 and have probably 40 runs on this belt and it still looks ok.
12-24-2012, 03:11 PM
#30
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12-28-2012, 03:51 PM
#34
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go talk to a local reputable engine builder if you are serious. that is one sure fire way of learning a few things along the way.
and then go open your wallet for some quality parts.
mike v is right on. i sold a set of lunati pro mod rods a long long time ago for the Oliver's. lunati's=OK, Olivers= the ****!
my rods have been in my motor for about 10 years now. ZERO issues, and more importantly no worries.
12-28-2012, 06:45 PM
#36
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Sure olivers are great but sometimes money can be better spent in other places
12-29-2012, 10:25 PM
#37
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I know there are multiple people on eagle rods. For another 800 dollars though and the peace of mind, the olivers seem to be the right choice. I have not heard any bad things about them as of yet.
I would prefer getting opinions from people who are not trying to sell me anything and have experience, over going to an engine builder and asking. I prefer to do most of the work myself or with a guy at a local shop I use. I only use machine shops for the basic machining work, unless it can't be avoided.
My experience has always been, if you pay someone to do it you always wonder if they did it right. If you do it, then you are confident in the job.
I would prefer getting opinions from people who are not trying to sell me anything and have experience, over going to an engine builder and asking. I prefer to do most of the work myself or with a guy at a local shop I use. I only use machine shops for the basic machining work, unless it can't be avoided.
My experience has always been, if you pay someone to do it you always wonder if they did it right. If you do it, then you are confident in the job.
12-31-2012, 07:50 AM
#38
I know there are multiple people on eagle rods. For another 800 dollars though and the peace of mind, the olivers seem to be the right choice. I have not heard any bad things about them as of yet.
I would prefer getting opinions from people who are not trying to sell me anything and have experience, over going to an engine builder and asking. I prefer to do most of the work myself or with a guy at a local shop I use. I only use machine shops for the basic machining work, unless it can't be avoided.
My experience has always been, if you pay someone to do it you always wonder if they did it right. If you do it, then you are confident in the job.
I would prefer getting opinions from people who are not trying to sell me anything and have experience, over going to an engine builder and asking. I prefer to do most of the work myself or with a guy at a local shop I use. I only use machine shops for the basic machining work, unless it can't be avoided.
My experience has always been, if you pay someone to do it you always wonder if they did it right. If you do it, then you are confident in the job.
build, calculator, compression, connecting, high, horsepower, ls1, lt4, na, rod, rods, strong, tension, weight, works
