Radcannon

iTrader: (3)

Wondering if any of you guys have some experience here. Getting my LTx build towards the end of the road. Just got to get the engine buttoned up.

So here is the ultimate question. Going to be spinning the motor to around 6500 rpm and looking to make 1000+hp. I found some nice howards rod's for 900 the ultimate duty forged billet rods. Have you guys had good luck with these or should I cough out the extra 650 for dyers?

Another question is I am trying to get and edelbrock super victor to bolt up to my LT heads. What kind of work do I need to do to the intake to get it to work? Angle mill or is it just drilling new holes and welding the distributor and crossover pipe?

Radcannon

iTrader: (3)

Something else for you guys, if you could chime in what kind of HP you are making on your build and how many miles you go. Want to know how reliable it will be... also if you have done anything like filled the engine block a 1/3 with filler or any other tricks.

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

How are you planning on getting to that 1000HP goal with that incredibly low RPM limit?

Sounds like you have a lot to consider and learn yet. It is so easy to throw around a huge HP number but 99% of guys have to settle for something less. 1000hp in an LT1 is not easy by any means.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

What are the track performance goals?

Dave357LT1

Don't need to spin to the moon with boost. The block will we the problem. You can buy a stronger everything else. I think Big Rick said ten runs at that hp level before a rebuild.

Radcannon

iTrader: (3)

Would rather not mention the details of the build. Maybe you will see it some day. Also an LT is not much different than a SBC, just limited by heads. Many people push the SBC well beyond 1000 hp.

Puck

iTrader: (17)

Shitton of compression and boost can do it. Not very likely though.

$$$$$$$$

Radcannon

iTrader: (3)

The track performance goals are to be in the contenders for the outlaw class of the LTx shootout. The build for the car has been in the works for a few years, getting close now. I'm hoping, if everything turns out right, to be ready for this year. Really want to push into the 8's.

I know there were a few guys that I was reading about making in the 1500 hp range without breaking the blocks. A few others were up there and doing 1/3 fill. I know RCMR did a 700+ whp build and I never heard any issues with it. I know a guy in Detroit was running into the 8's on NOS. I would imagine the block being similar to the durability of the SBC.

I will be doing the tuning and no it will not be on an LT1 controller. The good thing about boost is that you don't have to have incredible high cylinder pressures like you would N/A for the same power levels.

Lets hear some opinions on the the rod choices please..... got eagle H-Beams I could use, which eagle said is fine and quiet a few other ppl are running, but I am just hesitant. A little afraid to throw them in and lose a motor because I didn't spend the cash.

Also would like to hear how you guys are getting your motors to last at those power levels. Obviously there are quiet a few outlaw guys keeping them together. I don't want your secrets on your build just would like some durability tips. No bottomless pocketbook over here.

Radcannon

iTrader: (3)

Alot of compression and boost are not synonymous.

Can we please keep the topic on track?

T/A KID

iTrader: (12)

LTx are reverse cooled, you can get away with a lot of compression with
boost.


P.S. you better have a hell of a Power adder to make that power that low

Radcannon

iTrader: (3)

Our builds are similar a little different but similar. I might take it to around 7500 but only if I have to. Doing something a little different that used to be done. Hoping it can get me there but we will see. Won't know for sure until its done.

It is reversed cooled but that doesn't make a huge difference. Your delta T across the inlet to outlet of an engine should only be in the neighborhood of 10C. When it comes to pre-ignition that's not a huge factor. Too cold has also shown to create pre-ignition issues. High boost applications everything's out the door, engines don't always behave the way they should and can get into very dangerous areas running high BMEP's.

T/A KID

iTrader: (12)

Im all about Low RPM for something on the street (personal preference). I use to have a maxed out D1Sc on this car and now I have a completed Whipple which I just started tuning.

Things I have learned is I probably could have got a 3.4 to fit, and Id raise compression considerably. I am 9.1 right now and should be around 15lbs, if I could do my engine again I'd put the CR around 11-11.5 and run the same amount of boost and not bat an eye at it and thats with Pump gas and meth only (no intercooler in my whipple build)

Also I built a supervic for my last setup, ordered it from summit ( I believe I use the vortec version), no angle milling needed on my setup, just had to fix the bolt pattern and used some angled washers, worked fine. Here is a pic

Radcannon

iTrader: (3)

Great, what kind of power were you making? The meth injection does wonders, that is the same type of approach I am taking. Going to be in the high 9's compression wise and a bit more boost. Pump gas to kick also, played around with E85 and 11 to 1 though.

T/A KID

iTrader: (12)

I use hp tuners and I have never been on the dyno with my setup dialed in, just got the whipple setup going and I have access to a dyno now so I will probably get numbers in the next few months (the plan anyways)

The D1SC I was running a maxed out impellar speed and the blower was rated at 925 flywheel, probably in the 700rwhp mark but never confirmed.

The 2.9 whipple is quite a bit larger CFM wise, but I am not spinning it max speed either, looking to make about the same amount of power with more Tq under the curve.

I love meth, haven't messed with E85 personally, but I have tuned some cars with it. Just need to make sure you have some big injectors and the rest of your setup ready for it.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

under normal conditions, rpm/piston weight are the biggest stress on the rod when it has to stop the piston coming up to TDC and then pull it back down, even if you take it to the more reasonable 7500rpm number that still isn't a lot of rpm and while you should discuss it with the vendor I don't think you need to get all that fancy on rods. Ask Howards what they think about their rods if those were what you had your eye on to start.

Radcannon

iTrader: (3)

Sweet, you still have the intake around? Also good news on the intake front. Looks like RHS is going to release a bolt on version early next year, hopefully save some cash and fab time. Cutting the crossover off and welding it isn't a big deal.

How many miles did you put on that build and what rods were you running?

I agree the killer is the rpm for rods but I want something that will last quiet a few years without even having to make rods as a concern.

nitrous2fast

iTrader: (2)

You do realize that pressure in the cylinder is what makes the piston go down right? pressure in the cylinder is EVERYTHING...

Radcannon

iTrader: (3)

It is all about cylinder pressure over the total cycle of the engine but not just what is happening during the compression/power stroke.

Please keep this on topic everyone!

Puck

iTrader: (17)

Over 10:1 CR is not uncommon for a boosted setup of the caliber you are describing. A Gen1 guy may consider that decent boost for an NA build, let alone a boosted setup.

Just curious, how many big power LT1s have you built? They make look like an SBC, but there are differences that you may not be aware of, as evidenced by the talk of "1/3 fills" and low boost.

More in line with the topic, a Single Plane won't need an angle mill, just the bolt holes to be changed on the intake, or you can drill your cylinder heads for SBC intake bolt pattern. You can weld the T-stat mount and dizzy hole if you want, for a cleaner look. This is mine:


FWIW, plenty of guys run 1/2 fills on street cars with no ill effects. Reverse cooling is a blessing.

Hit em Up

iTrader: (3)

For the power level you're looking to make I would get the billet rods from Howard's or Callie's!! My friend just snapped a billet Callie's ultra lite in half on 15lb street tune from his twin turbo lsx! His shift point was only at 6500 as his new percision turbos spool so quick he was at full boost at like 3400rpm,now he was making 1300 to wheels on 23lbs but still relevant as rpms alone aren't the killer.I will be making a lil over a 1000hp at the flywheel on the juice and I run and reccomend a block fill at that level no doubt.Its still very streetable and will give you more piece of mind.Good luck with your build: