Opinion on this Stand Alone Fuel System for my N20
01-07-2013, 08:44 PM
#1
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Opinion on this Stand Alone Fuel System for my N20 Thinking about buying this stand alone fuel system, and running C16 in it.
http://fourm.nitrousexpress.com/prod...ls.php?id=1562
Right now i am running, Nitrous Outlets 58mm plate, off of the fuel rails, with a 255 pump in the tank.
I want to up my shot up from a 150 to a 200 (maybe 225) and also get some of my timing back if i can.
What do yall think about running this stand alone system with my nitrous plate? I'm guessing i'll just need to get a different set of jets since it is a low pressure system. Right?
FYI the motor is a build 383 with forged internals.
http://fourm.nitrousexpress.com/prod...ls.php?id=1562
Right now i am running, Nitrous Outlets 58mm plate, off of the fuel rails, with a 255 pump in the tank.
I want to up my shot up from a 150 to a 200 (maybe 225) and also get some of my timing back if i can.
What do yall think about running this stand alone system with my nitrous plate? I'm guessing i'll just need to get a different set of jets since it is a low pressure system. Right?
FYI the motor is a build 383 with forged internals.
01-07-2013, 10:52 PM
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i have the nitrous outlet standalone on my monoblade plate. They are nice, no doubt and mine had the high pressure spring in it, might beable to change that low pressure one out. I run vp ms109 (unleaded) and I have 93 in my fuel tank and vp 109 in the cell. Works great on 200hp. Vp claims ms109 is good to 15:1 compression. 100hp of nitrous = 1 full point I heard.
01-08-2013, 12:57 PM
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from my research i don't think its NHRA approved, which is ok with me.
and i cant switch from hi pressure to low pressure. But that is also ok with me. I was thinking about getting the low pressure so i can fine tune the nitrous system better. I dont want to waist $330 unless there is a really good reason to.
01-09-2013, 09:59 AM
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I have to agree with op,$330 is a lot of money and if it wasn't everyone on here would be running the BEST PARTS cuz it's only X amount more! Instead 85% of the threads here are about price comparison,eagle cast cranks,eBay opti's etc etc and the price is almost never a $330 difference lol. Although in most instances I will almost always pay a lil more for better service. Op if this setup has what you need I say go for it!!
01-10-2013, 06:25 PM
#12
yes to the many factors to consider....but my statement does hold true....
this is copied from http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_...ech_tips.shtml
found in a quick internet search for supporting evidence rather than just my typing.
TIMING
When we set the timing on a car we are actually finding the point in which the engine will initiate the burn so that at about 15° After Top Dead Center (ATDC) peak cylinder pressure can occur. Depending on combustion chamber design and cylinder filling, this point can be anywhere between 30° and 45° Before Top Dead Center (BTDC). The reason we retard timing with nitrous injection is that the air charge becomes more oxygen dense, causing the air/fuel mixture to burn at a much higher rate. In other words, accelerated combustion occurs. This acceleration in combustion causes peak cylinder pressure to happen much earlier. The problem with this is that instead of using the energy generated by combustion to give the piston momentum we are transferring that heat energy onto the rotating and reciprocating assemblies, and possibly hurting them. In the process we are losing torque and horsepower. To prevent this, we recommend that you retard the ignition timing 1-1/2° to 2° for every 50 hp added through the nitrous system. This will ensure that peak cylinder pressure occurs at the same point it did before the nitrous was injected into an engine. Also keep in mind that retarding too much timing will also hurt you. If you retard more than the recommended amount, peak cylinder pressure can occur much later in the combustion cycle and that energy will be wasted. In most cases, avoid aftermarket chips or computers that are not designed for use with nitrous. They typically add more ignition timing, which could lead to power loss and engine damage.
this is copied from http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_...ech_tips.shtml
found in a quick internet search for supporting evidence rather than just my typing.
TIMING
When we set the timing on a car we are actually finding the point in which the engine will initiate the burn so that at about 15° After Top Dead Center (ATDC) peak cylinder pressure can occur. Depending on combustion chamber design and cylinder filling, this point can be anywhere between 30° and 45° Before Top Dead Center (BTDC). The reason we retard timing with nitrous injection is that the air charge becomes more oxygen dense, causing the air/fuel mixture to burn at a much higher rate. In other words, accelerated combustion occurs. This acceleration in combustion causes peak cylinder pressure to happen much earlier. The problem with this is that instead of using the energy generated by combustion to give the piston momentum we are transferring that heat energy onto the rotating and reciprocating assemblies, and possibly hurting them. In the process we are losing torque and horsepower. To prevent this, we recommend that you retard the ignition timing 1-1/2° to 2° for every 50 hp added through the nitrous system. This will ensure that peak cylinder pressure occurs at the same point it did before the nitrous was injected into an engine. Also keep in mind that retarding too much timing will also hurt you. If you retard more than the recommended amount, peak cylinder pressure can occur much later in the combustion cycle and that energy will be wasted. In most cases, avoid aftermarket chips or computers that are not designed for use with nitrous. They typically add more ignition timing, which could lead to power loss and engine damage.
01-11-2013, 09:12 AM
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Thinking about buying this stand alone fuel system, and running C16 in it.
http://fourm.nitrousexpress.com/prod...ls.php?id=1562
Right now i am running, Nitrous Outlets 58mm plate, off of the fuel rails, with a 255 pump in the tank.
I want to up my shot up from a 150 to a 200 (maybe 225) and also get some of my timing back if i can.
What do yall think about running this stand alone system with my nitrous plate? I'm guessing i'll just need to get a different set of jets since it is a low pressure system. Right?
FYI the motor is a build 383 with forged internals.
http://fourm.nitrousexpress.com/prod...ls.php?id=1562
Right now i am running, Nitrous Outlets 58mm plate, off of the fuel rails, with a 255 pump in the tank.
I want to up my shot up from a 150 to a 200 (maybe 225) and also get some of my timing back if i can.
What do yall think about running this stand alone system with my nitrous plate? I'm guessing i'll just need to get a different set of jets since it is a low pressure system. Right?
FYI the motor is a build 383 with forged internals.
Jetting does change with going to a low pressure system. We like low pressure on the dedicated fuel system because it is easier to dial in the AFR with the fuel pressure. At low pressure changing the fuel pressure 1 PSI makes a bigger difference in AFR than a couple of pounds of pressure on a high pressure system.
Whenever you are ready for some jetting shoot me a message and i will get you the jetting to start with on the plate!
01-11-2013, 04:21 PM
#15
I'm going to have to make the same thing for my setup, I have to run two pumps for the primer plus and the 4500 Gemini plate system.
On the smaller jets, most of the companies recommend a bit much on timing retard. It really depends on the combination, but you really need to find someone with experience on a similar setup and can give you a few safe jets to work with.
On the smaller jets, most of the companies recommend a bit much on timing retard. It really depends on the combination, but you really need to find someone with experience on a similar setup and can give you a few safe jets to work with.
01-11-2013, 07:32 PM
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yes to the many factors to consider....but my statement does hold true....
this is copied from http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_...ech_tips.shtml
found in a quick internet search for supporting evidence rather than just my typing.
TIMING
When we set the timing on a car we are actually finding the point in which the engine will initiate the burn so that at about 15° After Top Dead Center (ATDC) peak cylinder pressure can occur. Depending on combustion chamber design and cylinder filling, this point can be anywhere between 30° and 45° Before Top Dead Center (BTDC). The reason we retard timing with nitrous injection is that the air charge becomes more oxygen dense, causing the air/fuel mixture to burn at a much higher rate. In other words, accelerated combustion occurs. This acceleration in combustion causes peak cylinder pressure to happen much earlier. The problem with this is that instead of using the energy generated by combustion to give the piston momentum we are transferring that heat energy onto the rotating and reciprocating assemblies, and possibly hurting them. In the process we are losing torque and horsepower. To prevent this, we recommend that you retard the ignition timing 1-1/2° to 2° for every 50 hp added through the nitrous system. This will ensure that peak cylinder pressure occurs at the same point it did before the nitrous was injected into an engine. Also keep in mind that retarding too much timing will also hurt you. If you retard more than the recommended amount, peak cylinder pressure can occur much later in the combustion cycle and that energy will be wasted. In most cases, avoid aftermarket chips or computers that are not designed for use with nitrous. They typically add more ignition timing, which could lead to power loss and engine damage.
this is copied from http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_...ech_tips.shtml
found in a quick internet search for supporting evidence rather than just my typing.
TIMING
When we set the timing on a car we are actually finding the point in which the engine will initiate the burn so that at about 15° After Top Dead Center (ATDC) peak cylinder pressure can occur. Depending on combustion chamber design and cylinder filling, this point can be anywhere between 30° and 45° Before Top Dead Center (BTDC). The reason we retard timing with nitrous injection is that the air charge becomes more oxygen dense, causing the air/fuel mixture to burn at a much higher rate. In other words, accelerated combustion occurs. This acceleration in combustion causes peak cylinder pressure to happen much earlier. The problem with this is that instead of using the energy generated by combustion to give the piston momentum we are transferring that heat energy onto the rotating and reciprocating assemblies, and possibly hurting them. In the process we are losing torque and horsepower. To prevent this, we recommend that you retard the ignition timing 1-1/2° to 2° for every 50 hp added through the nitrous system. This will ensure that peak cylinder pressure occurs at the same point it did before the nitrous was injected into an engine. Also keep in mind that retarding too much timing will also hurt you. If you retard more than the recommended amount, peak cylinder pressure can occur much later in the combustion cycle and that energy will be wasted. In most cases, avoid aftermarket chips or computers that are not designed for use with nitrous. They typically add more ignition timing, which could lead to power loss and engine damage.
