Ed Wright

iTrader: (1)

I never heard of anybody going to another Dynojet (Mustangs usually give lower numbers) and show 50 rwhp less than mine. There was one in Memphis about 25 rwhp higher. It's stupid to jack your numbers up, to many other dynos around for guys to use to double check you.

maromatt

lol this thread got interesting!! so what gear with this cam 390 373 410????

Ed Wright

iTrader: (1)

Any would be fine. 4.10 should be quicker if you can hook it. 3.73, of course would get better mileage along with lower engine noise levels during everyday driving.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Pretty sure they had absolutely no earthly idea how to operate it, what parameters to put in it and whether or not it was even calibrated.

maromatt

not a dd dont care about noise or mpg so you think 4.10? Its probably goin to be in a 9in

Ed Wright

iTrader: (1)

Yes sir, 4.10. I don't recommend 4.10s in the factory rear end if you are going to run slicks. They too often break if your making much power. (Like low eleven second or quicker) A 9" won't have any problems.
Best of luck.

quik95lt1

iTrader: (7)

very good advice......higher the gear the smaller the pinion and the more the leverage...all that is a recipie to break ****

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Out of curiosity, what do you think yields such power gains in "factory freaks." I mean the LT4 SS factory stock was in the 13.4 range, the LT4 Vettes were in the low 13's to high 12 second range. Every single factory stock auto LT1 around the DFW area that went to Ennis back in the day was in the mid to low 14's at around 95mph. How can a factory stock LT1 in a f-body achieve the same, or better ET's than an LT4 in a lighter weight car? Are the heads/inner radius cast differently? Far less parasitic drag? Better factory tune? This has always baffled me when someone mentioned their car is a "factory freak."

Ed Wright

iTrader: (1)

Well, if you blue printed many engines you would have an idea. Where I race the LT1 has to have 51.9 cc chambers. Some heads need cut .015" to get there. Some need more like .040", pistons are supposed to be .015" in the hole. I have seen everywhere from .020 to .038" in the hole from the factory. That is a lot more volume than .18" off the head.


When Stock & Super Stock Eliminator still actually used stock heads I used to gather up all the castings I could find and flow them, using the best flowing two I could find.

How one is broken in has a huge effect on ring seal, something that seems to escape many on here. Take it out and drive the **** out of it and it will be faster than idling around in it.
Cars driven slow all the time, or use a little oil have more carbon build up, especially in the exhaust ports. That impedes exhaust port flow.

They are too rich @ WOT from the factory. Tuning a stock LT1 ( and LS1) is more air/fuel than WOT spark advance. Get one with the fuel pressure regulator on low side of spec, it won't be as rich. MAF sensor calibrations have a little bit of a spread. Get one on the low side and it won't be as over rich as others. The dogs are usually richer than the norm.

All this is common knowledge in this business. Nothing new here. These keyboard racers that like to talk about modern production methods building them closer than that just crack me up. They need to get out in the real world, and build more than one or two. And actually learn to measure things.

As for stick LT4 Firehawks & Vettes, you may have seen somebody that can drive one worth a damn. I have not. All I have seen leave too low, and shift like girls. LOL

gjohnsonws6

iTrader: (12)

My 96 ws6 6 speed put down 305 thru stock manifolds and cats but had a cutout. Only other mods were tb bypass and 160 stat and used an hpp3 to turn on fans only. No tuning.

Ed Wright

iTrader: (1)

There ya go. Not common, but they do exist.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Yeah.. I need a little more than just online testimony when it comes to dyno numbers. Track times would be a good as well. Even with what you mentioned it's still hard to believe the examples you give were all perfect that it could yield 50rwhp more than an average factory stock LT1 engine.
Yes I had a couple of friends with LT4's that raced on Friday nights as much as they could. That's what we did for fun back in the 90's. Go to Ennis or HRP and beat the **** out of our cars.

Ed Wright

iTrader: (1)

I give up. Why the **** would I make up something like that? I never claimed any big gains, and thought I clearly explained that the higher hp virgin cars gain less from tuning. Maybe it was over your head. If you actually built and dynoed engines you would have a clue about what this stuff I mentioned is worth. I'm not the only one that has seen this. Do you think the dogs that only made 235 rwhp is a lie too? Because you didn't read it on some message board? Really?
I give up. Call me a liar. I really don't give a ****.

Puck

iTrader: (17)

Seems like performance is what you're after, and not a tame daily driver, so as long as you are willing to do the supporting mods like suggested then you will be happy with your cam. If Llyod spec'd it for you, it will be what you asked for.

Yep, people are surprised just how big the difference is.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

When my car was in your shop I asked you about the different f-body boards. You grumbled back that you didn't have time for it and everything on those boards was a joke anyway. What you missed were the many timeslips and dynosheets people posted up when the LT1 platform was still fairly new and a lot of members were documenting their progress from different climates/geographical locations. The averages were nowhere near 290rwhp for a stock auto, so yeah it's a little hard to believe. What you mentioned being a contributor to a 290rwhp engine factory stock is massive. Besides, you also believed my car dynoed close to 370rwhp on your dyno through Edelbrock shortie 1 5/8" headers and stock y-pipe with cats. I wanted to believe it, but the track said otherwise.

Ed Wright

iTrader: (1)

Was your car a stick or automatic?

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Manual. Got another question for you- When you would tune OBDII PCM's back in the late 90's did you shut the SES light off from recognizing any code errors? I haven't seen my SES light trigger since before you tuned it.

Ed Wright

iTrader: (1)

And I guess your a really good driver.
I honestly do not remember anybody telling me, after picking them up on the dyno, that the car was no faster at the track unless they had wheel spin problems afterward.

Only shut of emissions codes for thing removed.
EGR, etc. EGR & cams don't mix. If cats is gone, those too.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the info. I am no T56 Jedi or anything, but I do know my own car.

bowtienut

iTrader: (1)

This is pretty entertaining now that Ed is retired and spending time on the internet
As much as I think he's a hard-headed argumentive old fart, I'm siding with him on this one. I'm kinda old too, so I reserve the right to jab at you, Ed

My car has been called a freak too. It wasn't bone "stock", so take this for what it's worth. With the unopened stock motor except for 1.6RR's and springs, SLP shorty headers, open exhaust, electric WP, and a dyno tune, it put down 309 STD. And I think the best track time of 12.36 @ 107+ at 3925 lbs pretty much backs that up. So take the WP, tune, and headers away and give it the benefit of an M6 and 10 deg more cam duration (F-cam vs. B-cam), and high 2XX's rwhp doesn't sound impossible to me.
BTW, before a PCM tune, I used to use a HPP to change shift points and pressure, and an AFPR to force it leaner when the BLM's maxed out.