LT1 in a 1948 chevy
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Teching In
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LT1 in a 1948 chevy Hello Gentlemen,
I have a bunch of questions so I guess I'll list a few and add some as I go along.
First what I have 95 LT1 low mileage engine, new 12551561 heads, carb intake, msd probillet distributor ( optispark welded shut ) and a hot cam.
Questions
1. What valve springs/kit should I use?
2. Where should I run the steam vent from the back of the heads to ?
3. Do I need a diffferent balancer ?
4. I would like to run 1.6 rockers any suggestion on brand ?
Here is a couple pic of what I have, thats a mockup of an aircleaner I am building Btw.
Thanks Pat
I have a bunch of questions so I guess I'll list a few and add some as I go along.
First what I have 95 LT1 low mileage engine, new 12551561 heads, carb intake, msd probillet distributor ( optispark welded shut ) and a hot cam.
Questions
1. What valve springs/kit should I use?
2. Where should I run the steam vent from the back of the heads to ?
3. Do I need a diffferent balancer ?
4. I would like to run 1.6 rockers any suggestion on brand ?
Here is a couple pic of what I have, thats a mockup of an aircleaner I am building Btw.
Thanks Pat
10 Second Club
Joined: Oct 2007
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Hello Gentlemen,
I have a bunch of questions so I guess I'll list a few and add some as I go along.
First what I have 95 LT1 low mileage engine, new 12551561 heads, carb intake, msd probillet distributor ( optispark welded shut ) and a hot cam.
Questions
1. What valve springs/kit should I use?
I have a bunch of questions so I guess I'll list a few and add some as I go along.
First what I have 95 LT1 low mileage engine, new 12551561 heads, carb intake, msd probillet distributor ( optispark welded shut ) and a hot cam.
Questions
1. What valve springs/kit should I use?
If the soft washers are no good for the banjo bolts in the cylinder head a lot of guys use oil drain plug washers, or convert the bolts to AN fittings.
I can't see what you are running. If you would feel better running a newer balancer, ATI and Professional Products both make SFI approved balancers for LT1's.
I ran Scorpion rockers for a few years and had no complaints. They were $175ish. If you don't have guideplates you will need self-aligning rockers.
Looks like a cool project!
I think 561 heads were from 96-97 lt1s, they are not desired heads for porting. For springs you could run the cheap $37 lt4 springs with 1.6 rockers or step up to a dual spring like lunatis for insurance, as a broken valvespring can easily destroy an engine. For rockers, comp pro mags or crane gold race rockers are great, I have a set of 1.6 NSA crane golds for sale right now for $125 plus shipping, they are $400 new.
Thread Starter
Teching In
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Thanks guys, So I just need to run the steam vent into the lower radiator hose, do I need any kind of expansion tank and where would I plumb it in, I have an after market alumnium radiator.
I have a stock balancer on it so I would need to find TDC and put a timing tape and pointer in place correct ?
Pat
I have a stock balancer on it so I would need to find TDC and put a timing tape and pointer in place correct ?
Pat
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The steam vent does not go to the lower hose.I think you could run into problems with the tanks being on top and bottom instead of sides. Look at the drawing the vent hose is attached to a nipple near the filler. The radiator should have been set up as a crossflow. Exactly as in the drawing but narrow and tall to fit your application.
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Teching In
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The steam vent does not go to the lower hose.I think you could run into problems with the tanks being on top and bottom instead of sides. Look at the drawing the vent hose is attached to a nipple near the filler. The radiator should have been set up as a crossflow. Exactly as in the drawing but narrow and tall to fit your application.
Last edited by lehr; Feb 7, 2013 at 11:25 AM. Reason: spelling
With the dual plane intake(assuming GMPP/Edelbrock carbed intake) keeping rpms down the LT4 springs will be fine, the LT1 intake shifts the rpm range upward and at that many of us recommend against LT4 springs with a HOT cam and heavier LT1 valves but in this case it should be fine. Cheap and reliable.
To muddy the waters a little bit more on the steam pipe/surge tank thing the b-bodies use a "surge tank" that is a circulating part of the system and the steam pipe gets routed into that. The tank is just T-ed into the heater line, this might be easier to plumb.
To muddy the waters a little bit more on the steam pipe/surge tank thing the b-bodies use a "surge tank" that is a circulating part of the system and the steam pipe gets routed into that. The tank is just T-ed into the heater line, this might be easier to plumb.
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With the dual plane intake(assuming GMPP/Edelbrock carbed intake) keeping rpms down the LT4 springs will be fine, the LT1 intake shifts the rpm range upward and at that many of us recommend against LT4 springs with a HOT cam and heavier LT1 valves but in this case it should be fine. Cheap and reliable.
To muddy the waters a little bit more on the steam pipe/surge tank thing the b-bodies use a "surge tank" that is a circulating part of the system and the steam pipe gets routed into that. The tank is just T-ed into the heater line, this might be easier to plumb.
To muddy the waters a little bit more on the steam pipe/surge tank thing the b-bodies use a "surge tank" that is a circulating part of the system and the steam pipe gets routed into that. The tank is just T-ed into the heater line, this might be easier to plumb.
Thanks for the info !
Pat
The bung in your radiator is for a surge tank right? The steam pipe is a CIRCULATING part of the system that primarily flows coolant. It is just a high point so that air or stream can escape on those rare occasions they are present.
The reason I put "surge tank" in quotes when I mentioned the b-body setup was because it is in reality a circulating part so while it serves the same purpose as a conventional surge tank in being a place to accommodate the change in water volume from heating and cooling but the water never leaves circulation the way it does in a conventional surge tank setup.
To run the steam pipe line to the radiator you will need to tap into a circulating part of the radiator, not the overflow area under the cap.
The reason I put "surge tank" in quotes when I mentioned the b-body setup was because it is in reality a circulating part so while it serves the same purpose as a conventional surge tank in being a place to accommodate the change in water volume from heating and cooling but the water never leaves circulation the way it does in a conventional surge tank setup.
To run the steam pipe line to the radiator you will need to tap into a circulating part of the radiator, not the overflow area under the cap.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: May 2009
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From: NW AR
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220651 2 of these
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220107b/ 1 of these
and some 6-AN lines will sort out the steam pipe on the system. That is the setup I have in the video. I ran to a splice I made on the pressure side of the cooling system.
I have a beehive spring setup for sale that is good to 600" lift if you are interested. I just sold the 1.6 Ratio rockers. I recommend comp cams steel rockers, I don't like aluminum rockers at all.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Comp+Cams/249/1602-16/10002/-1
These are the rockers I always use, from thousands of miles on the street to drag race engines up to 7500 rpm, I've had no problems from them.
For a HOT cam I wouldn't get carried away worrying about steel or aluminum, now if you think you might want to get more aggressive in the future then doing steel now could make sense but otherwise aluminum will be fine. I ran ProForm aluminum on my LT1 with a ZZ4 cam as a daily driver for a couple years think I put like 35K miles on them. I wouldn't try that with a modern .600lift cam and those same rockers but mild lobes like the HOT fine.
I would have doubts about that little thing keeping a V8 cool or do the pics just make it look smaller than it is?
I would have doubts about that little thing keeping a V8 cool or do the pics just make it look smaller than it is?
The bung in your radiator is for a surge tank right? The steam pipe is a CIRCULATING part of the system that primarily flows coolant. It is just a high point so that air or stream can escape on those rare occasions they are present.
The reason I put "surge tank" in quotes when I mentioned the b-body setup was because it is in reality a circulating part so while it serves the same purpose as a conventional surge tank in being a place to accommodate the change in water volume from heating and cooling but the water never leaves circulation the way it does in a conventional surge tank setup.
To run the steam pipe line to the radiator you will need to tap into a circulating part of the radiator, not the overflow area under the cap.
The reason I put "surge tank" in quotes when I mentioned the b-body setup was because it is in reality a circulating part so while it serves the same purpose as a conventional surge tank in being a place to accommodate the change in water volume from heating and cooling but the water never leaves circulation the way it does in a conventional surge tank setup.
To run the steam pipe line to the radiator you will need to tap into a circulating part of the radiator, not the overflow area under the cap.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: centerville, ohio
My steamline is tee'd into the pump outlet ( top hose ). You will need an overflow tank of some sort tied to the nipple at the cap. The Comp 787-16 retainer is also needed for the spring. You can use the stock locks or the 648 and the stock spring seat.
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Teching In
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Thanks for the reply !
Pat