Bought 95 trans am H/C/I LT1. Running ROUGH. Need help from you LT1 guys!
02-18-2013, 09:35 PM
#21
2 long hoses on the pass side go to the heater core and water pump. SOmeone hacked up the original hoses and made their own.
THe small red connector on the driver side goes to your evap purge solenoid. That is deleted with the egr valve and other vac lines and electronics
The long wire that is near the rear with oil all over it, tucked near the two injectors is the ac compressor plug
blue and gray plug near the egr valve should be the egr valve plug in.
THe small red connector on the driver side goes to your evap purge solenoid. That is deleted with the egr valve and other vac lines and electronics
The long wire that is near the rear with oil all over it, tucked near the two injectors is the ac compressor plug
blue and gray plug near the egr valve should be the egr valve plug in.
02-18-2013, 10:48 PM
#23
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2 long hoses on the pass side go to the heater core and water pump. SOmeone hacked up the original hoses and made their own.
THe small red connector on the driver side goes to your evap purge solenoid. That is deleted with the egr valve and other vac lines and electronics
The long wire that is near the rear with oil all over it, tucked near the two injectors is the ac compressor plug
blue and gray plug near the egr valve should be the egr valve plug in.
THe small red connector on the driver side goes to your evap purge solenoid. That is deleted with the egr valve and other vac lines and electronics
The long wire that is near the rear with oil all over it, tucked near the two injectors is the ac compressor plug
blue and gray plug near the egr valve should be the egr valve plug in.
Ohh! Car has MSD dist. Does that mean vacuum going to dist. Should b capped? Bc it is.
02-19-2013, 04:19 PM
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Ok, iv got a couple more concerns now, on the injector lines that run from the driver side wheel well, there are 3 lines, 2 run to the fuel rails, and one is not hooked up or clamped.
Also when i pull the heads, to install new head gaskets, can i change the piston rings from there? And i forgot to ask, on the way home, under acceleration, hard and mediocre, it would miss, and lag hard, almost as if the rear end locked up for a second? (its the motor, that just a comparison to show how hard it misses, then it pops really loud out the exhaust (one pow) and motor comtinues accelerating fine! Any guesses as to what that is?
Also when i pull the heads, to install new head gaskets, can i change the piston rings from there? And i forgot to ask, on the way home, under acceleration, hard and mediocre, it would miss, and lag hard, almost as if the rear end locked up for a second? (its the motor, that just a comparison to show how hard it misses, then it pops really loud out the exhaust (one pow) and motor comtinues accelerating fine! Any guesses as to what that is?
02-19-2013, 07:25 PM
#27
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I bet your intake manifold is leaking oil. It's SO easy to mess up the seal doing an install.
02-19-2013, 08:57 PM
#29
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I plan on buying a complete top end gasket kit, bc my head gaskets need replaced, and i am not sure if i can get to the piston rings from there but was at least hoping i could inspect them. Do you guys just use the gaskets? Or do you use the gasket sealer as well?
And were u refering to the oil pressure sensor?
Last edited by Numba20; 02-19-2013 at 09:15 PM.
02-20-2013, 01:14 PM
#32
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This should help. < http://shbox.com/1/harness.htm >
Last edited by FirebirdLT1Speed; 02-20-2013 at 01:16 PM. Reason: trying to post a picture from shbox.com/1/harness.htm
02-20-2013, 09:12 PM
#34
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Well i got antzy and decided to start tearing down the motor this afternoon. Got the coolant drained from the block. And from the air filter to the bottom of the intake manifold has been cleaned, and throttle body and intake manifold has been painted. The exhaust headers has been disconnected. I wouldve taken the heads off today, but im workin outside and it started getting dark. I will be doing a gasket match port job on intake, intake side of heads and exhaust side of heads and also polishing exhaust side of heads. I used shbox as a reference for making sure i dont forget or misd or damage anything. Everything is going smoothly, but valve covers are still on. Lol heads are what im most worried with. I wanted to know if there is any special process i meed to approach it with, or if i just back the bolts out and yank them off? Also, how can i tell if any of the valves are bent, or if the seats are bent? Do i have to replace retainers when i pull the heads? I assume i can just slide them up off the pushrods, and the ROcker arms and springs can stay put?
Ive found a top end gasket kit for $125 with everything i need. I could buy throttle body, intake, head, valve cover, exhaust gaskets, and o rings for injectors for $65. Is that everything ill need? Also should i use the silicone tube gasket sealer with the gaskets? I know i need to with the intake gaskets, but other than that is it needed or necessary?
Im sure ill have a few more questions when i get into this, i think ive got more now, but cant remember? :/??? Anyway, you've seen my shitty lookin motor, but heres the intake manifold and throttle body refinished
.
Ive found a top end gasket kit for $125 with everything i need. I could buy throttle body, intake, head, valve cover, exhaust gaskets, and o rings for injectors for $65. Is that everything ill need? Also should i use the silicone tube gasket sealer with the gaskets? I know i need to with the intake gaskets, but other than that is it needed or necessary?
Im sure ill have a few more questions when i get into this, i think ive got more now, but cant remember? :/??? Anyway, you've seen my shitty lookin motor, but heres the intake manifold and throttle body refinished
.
02-21-2013, 08:35 AM
#35
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Just loosen the rocker arms and turn them off of the pushrod. Sometimes they get in the way of the headbolts so just remove them if you have to. Pull the pushrods out.
You have to unbolt the steam crossover tube on the back of the heads. Be careful because they are flimsy and will not seal worth a **** when you put it back on. I believe they still make new seals for those? someone else can chime in.
Just remove the headbolts and toss them. Thats assuming they are stock style Torque to Yield head bolts, they are NOT reusable. I would just get a set of ARP bolts. Or if you want to save cash, the stock ones are cheap.
Thats pretty much it after you have removed the intake and headers.
You have to unbolt the steam crossover tube on the back of the heads. Be careful because they are flimsy and will not seal worth a **** when you put it back on. I believe they still make new seals for those? someone else can chime in.
Just remove the headbolts and toss them. Thats assuming they are stock style Torque to Yield head bolts, they are NOT reusable. I would just get a set of ARP bolts. Or if you want to save cash, the stock ones are cheap.
Thats pretty much it after you have removed the intake and headers.
02-21-2013, 11:41 AM
#36
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Found a black oring for the injector underneath where the injector was sitting, orings on injectors were blue, and all accounted for. But i have this random black one. I removed it. But im not sure if the couldve been more that mightve fallen down into the heads. Could they cause damage? And could this one's presence cause a problem with the way the motor runs? (contributing factor to the way it RAN)?
02-21-2013, 12:23 PM
#37
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Found a black oring for the injector underneath where the injector was sitting, orings on injectors were blue, and all accounted for. But i have this random black one. I removed it. But im not sure if the couldve been more that mightve fallen down into the heads. Could they cause damage? And could this one's presence cause a problem with the way the motor runs? (contributing factor to the way it RAN)?
A little piece of rubber isn't going to cause catastophic engine failure. it would have just been sucked through the intake valve and most likely burned away or shot out the exahust. Not a big deal.
02-21-2013, 03:15 PM
#38
I thought you said the heads were already ported? Did you pull the intake off and find they lied to you? Post a picture of the ports, particularly around the valve guide. I would not use a stock thickness gasket, I would go with a 0.026 to bump the compression up a point. Now is the best time to really really inspect everything and make sure as you put it all back together you run your fingers over every wire and pull at every connection to make sure everything is tight. Something as simple as a bad connection on the map sensor could be causing all of your frustration.
02-21-2013, 03:59 PM
#39
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I thought you said the heads were already ported? Did you pull the intake off and find they lied to you? Post a picture of the ports, particularly around the valve guide. I would not use a stock thickness gasket, I would go with a 0.026 to bump the compression up a point. Now is the best time to really really inspect everything and make sure as you put it all back together you run your fingers over every wire and pull at every connection to make sure everything is tight. Something as simple as a bad connection on the map sensor could be causing all of your frustration.
02-21-2013, 04:03 PM
#40
Port matching actually hurts horsepower because you are causing the flow path to go from small, to big, to small again, so the air becomes turbulent. Either do around the valve guide and the roof and touch up the short side just a touch or dont touch it. There are a ton of writeups on how to properly hand port a head, Lloyd elliot posted a nice piece about it on here somewhere. Either way, I would just swap in the 0.026 head gaskets and put it all back together. You are not getting out of a DECENT port job, on all 16 holes, in less than 8 hours. Look at a bunch of pictures of what a good cleaned up valve guide looks like, like on some LE2s, and compare it to stock, I think it would be pretty hard to **** up unless you actually hit the valve stem.