Bought 95 trans am H/C/I LT1. Running ROUGH. Need help from you LT1 guys!
02-17-2013, 10:12 AM
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Bought 95 trans am H/C/I LT1. Running ROUGH. Need help from you LT1 guys! I drove 300 miles to look at this car friday. I got there and it looked decent, just a little dirty. Idle was set a bit low and car kept acting like it wanted to stall out. And once it got to about 180ish degrees, it would. Car was supposedly tuned by Zues Performance in NC, and they sent it off to PCM for less? Well all i know is some one screwed up because the cam surge under 2200 rpm will shake your freaking brains out. i believe one of the injectors may be stuck (?), i tightened that screw in the throttle body that raises the idle just a hair to keep it from dying on me. And when i stated it almost everytime after getting gas, it would idle at like 2100-2300 and would not come down til i put it in gear and let out the clutch (a couple times) and would returned to idle at 1000ish rpm. Also i averaged 6 mpg on way home. And i didnt know until about 60 miles into my trip back home, but this car leaks oil bad too. I put 11 qts in it on the way home and id be surprised if there is over 2 in the motorbright now. Temp stayed fine. And as soon as low oil light would come on id stop and add some. (1-2 qts) SES light is on, it has the OBD I, but an OBDII hook up, (i think) and i cant get it to read. The guy at autozone asked if my cigarette lighter was connected? (its not) and also this car has had the AC deleted(probably a hack job) the EgR deleted, and vacuum hoses are bare and exposed not even plugged. Whoever owned this car was a dumbass who should not be allowed to reproduce. Im attemting to save it, and bring it back, but i need some help, any one who knows the LT1 wiring harness well, or is fimilar with any probs ive mentioned, if they can confirm if my suspicions are right? Where the hell these vacuum hoses went? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Ohh and im sorry that i have to say this, but please save your rude condescending remarks and ideas to scrap the car to yurself. Ifit doesnt help me progress in this then thats not helping. And the car has MSD opti, and 8.5 plugs, the plugs look as tough they could be heat scorched and im not sure about connectors. Car white smokes like crazy! I was assuming bc of too much fuel? But also theres a high possibility piston rings a fried. :/ needless to say im not driving the car, and will be getting it to the shop this week, but whatever u can contribute, thanks!
02-17-2013, 10:36 AM
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Scanners at parts stores are for OBDII so it will display a "no comm" error. You are on the right track as far as seeing what the codes are. White smoke is an indication of excessive condensation and possibly coolant being burned. I think you said you pulled the plugs? You need to pull all of them and check to see if any one or more look cleaner than the others. How is the coolant level? If it's billowing you can at least smell it to see if it is indeed burnt oil or if it's a sweet aroma like coolant. That could be a number of things. If it's coolant then you're looking at a blown head gasket. If oil then it could be rings and/or worn valve guides. You can do a compression test to see what's up as well.
You've got yourself either a huge project or a headache, however you want to look at it. It reads like the previous owner wanted to get rid of it because of how many problems it has. You may have to start from square one. One thing for certain, you will have to spend some money to get things right. Hopefully you got it for a good deal.
You've got yourself either a huge project or a headache, however you want to look at it. It reads like the previous owner wanted to get rid of it because of how many problems it has. You may have to start from square one. One thing for certain, you will have to spend some money to get things right. Hopefully you got it for a good deal.
02-17-2013, 03:14 PM
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Scanners at parts stores are for OBDII so it will display a "no comm" error. You are on the right track as far as seeing what the codes are. White smoke is an indication of excessive condensation and possibly coolant being burned. I think you said you pulled the plugs? You need to pull all of them and check to see if any one or more look cleaner than the others. How is the coolant level? If it's billowing you can at least smell it to see if it is indeed burnt oil or if it's a sweet aroma like coolant. That could be a number of things. If it's coolant then you're looking at a blown head gasket. If oil then it could be rings and/or worn valve guides. You can do a compression test to see what's up as well.
You've got yourself either a huge project or a headache, however you want to look at it. It reads like the previous owner wanted to get rid of it because of how many problems it has. You may have to start from square one. One thing for certain, you will have to spend some money to get things right. Hopefully you got it for a good deal.
You've got yourself either a huge project or a headache, however you want to look at it. It reads like the previous owner wanted to get rid of it because of how many problems it has. You may have to start from square one. One thing for certain, you will have to spend some money to get things right. Hopefully you got it for a good deal.
If you all could help with the vacuum line diagram in trying to figure out here, i think rhats about all i havent got pinned so far. I do like second opinions on things though. 2 heads are better then 1... Yata yata yata.
02-17-2013, 03:20 PM
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Scanners at parts stores are for OBDII so it will display a "no comm" error. You are on the right track as far as seeing what the codes are. White smoke is an indication of excessive condensation and possibly coolant being burned. I think you said you pulled the plugs? You need to pull all of them and check to see if any one or more look cleaner than the others. How is the coolant level? If it's billowing you can at least smell it to see if it is indeed burnt oil or if it's a sweet aroma like coolant. That could be a number of things. If it's coolant then you're looking at a blown head gasket. If oil then it could be rings and/or worn valve guides. You can do a compression test to see what's up as well.
You've got yourself either a huge project or a headache, however you want to look at it. It reads like the previous owner wanted to get rid of it because of how many problems it has. You may have to start from square one. One thing for certain, you will have to spend some money to get things right. Hopefully you got it for a good deal.
You've got yourself either a huge project or a headache, however you want to look at it. It reads like the previous owner wanted to get rid of it because of how many problems it has. You may have to start from square one. One thing for certain, you will have to spend some money to get things right. Hopefully you got it for a good deal.
02-17-2013, 03:52 PM
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02-17-2013, 08:12 PM
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Sticker on the pass wheel well? Mine is missing >:/ but ill google it.
Soon! Ive got it cleaned up. But thats as far as ive got.
02-17-2013, 08:41 PM
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Sinces it's heads/cam ill assume it has long tubes, so go ahead and do a compression test on all cyls just to get started. Next, put a huge piece of cardboard under it and let it idle for 20 minutes. Should give you a reference to find the oil leak. Usual suspects are behind intake manifold, rear main seal, and front timing cover crank seal. Check all vacuum lines and squeeze them all, if they feel brittle or show cracks, replace them. You should have 30lb injectors for that setup, if not, get some ford red top 30 pounders. Pull all plugs, should be ngk tr55, gap and clean. Check to verify fuel pressure.
02-17-2013, 09:24 PM
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Sinces it's heads/cam ill assume it has long tubes, so go ahead and do a compression test on all cyls just to get started. Next, put a huge piece of cardboard under it and let it idle for 20 minutes. Should give you a reference to find the oil leak. Usual suspects are behind intake manifold, rear main seal, and front timing cover crank seal. Check all vacuum lines and squeeze them all, if they feel brittle or show cracks, replace them. You should have 30lb injectors for that setup, if not, get some ford red top 30 pounders. Pull all plugs, should be ngk tr55, gap and clean. Check to verify fuel pressure.
02-18-2013, 09:15 PM
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Ll after some rather extensive looking on the vacuum lines, i have a pretty good understanding. EGR has been deleted in my car, not the right way im assuming. Ive got alot to redo and re-run hoese and such. And some connectors are just hangin out. Any explanation on the stuff in the following pics, the way they were factory, or where these connectors went to would be much appreciated.
this ran to the headers, part of the egr system, planned on fabbing a sheet of galvanized metal under the bracket over the gasket would seal it up.
Throttle body has 3 vacuum hook ups, only the top is ran to the pcv valve, where do the other two go?
Pass side vacuum ports here, both are running to the rear, but that doesnt line up with diagrams ive found?
???
Pass side wires around where the deleted ac lines used to hook up has wires running thru headers, and touch in places. How to re-run?
Connector laid down touching the steering column cover. What was this to?
Connector (blue) close to where the egr vavle was, i assume thats what its to, but wanted confirmation.
Pass side, connector here was tucked by the rear two injectors. Whats this to?
Blue connector on pass side close to front 2 injectors?
And lastly these 2 hoses run back to the firewall next to where the AC lines would go. I know they have been rerouted. I want to take it back to factory, but dont know how they were ran originally...
this ran to the headers, part of the egr system, planned on fabbing a sheet of galvanized metal under the bracket over the gasket would seal it up.
Throttle body has 3 vacuum hook ups, only the top is ran to the pcv valve, where do the other two go?
Pass side vacuum ports here, both are running to the rear, but that doesnt line up with diagrams ive found?
???Pass side wires around where the deleted ac lines used to hook up has wires running thru headers, and touch in places. How to re-run?
Connector laid down touching the steering column cover. What was this to?
Connector (blue) close to where the egr vavle was, i assume thats what its to, but wanted confirmation.
Pass side, connector here was tucked by the rear two injectors. Whats this to?
Blue connector on pass side close to front 2 injectors?
And lastly these 2 hoses run back to the firewall next to where the AC lines would go. I know they have been rerouted. I want to take it back to factory, but dont know how they were ran originally...
02-18-2013, 09:35 PM
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2 long hoses on the pass side go to the heater core and water pump. SOmeone hacked up the original hoses and made their own.
THe small red connector on the driver side goes to your evap purge solenoid. That is deleted with the egr valve and other vac lines and electronics
The long wire that is near the rear with oil all over it, tucked near the two injectors is the ac compressor plug
blue and gray plug near the egr valve should be the egr valve plug in.
THe small red connector on the driver side goes to your evap purge solenoid. That is deleted with the egr valve and other vac lines and electronics
The long wire that is near the rear with oil all over it, tucked near the two injectors is the ac compressor plug
blue and gray plug near the egr valve should be the egr valve plug in.