Crank hub is a bastard.
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From: N. Richland Hills
Crank hub is a bastard. Hello folks, so I was called over to a fellow tech-ers house last week b/c he had a crank hub that wouldn't come off. And it still won't come off. I have broken the bolts on two separate pullers and stripped out a third one. And yes I've seen the hub puller vid so no need to post it.
All of the pullers have used grade 8 bolts, nuts, and washers that weren't attached to the hub itself (just pushed thru and used nuts on the backside). I am at a loss right now. It has been doused in PB blaster and beat on by several dead blow hammers but it still won't come off.
My last resort is to have a friend of mine chop off part of the center rod and weld on a slide hammer b/c it does seem to move back in when you hit it with a hammer.
Suggestions?
All of the pullers have used grade 8 bolts, nuts, and washers that weren't attached to the hub itself (just pushed thru and used nuts on the backside). I am at a loss right now. It has been doused in PB blaster and beat on by several dead blow hammers but it still won't come off.
My last resort is to have a friend of mine chop off part of the center rod and weld on a slide hammer b/c it does seem to move back in when you hit it with a hammer.
Suggestions?
Are you talking about the front crank pulley?
I doubt heat will work because it sounds like its welded itself to the snout....if its this hard to get off, who the hell put it on?
Do the pullers you are using have fine or coarse thread?
I doubt heat will work because it sounds like its welded itself to the snout....if its this hard to get off, who the hell put it on?
Do the pullers you are using have fine or coarse thread?
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From: Nebraska
Are you using just a standard puller? They don't work on an LT1 like a standard SBC. You have to improvise a little and grab a chunk of 7/16-20 Threaded rod and run that into the crank first and use that as the pushing point for the puller.
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Also PB blast inside the hole. Its amazing how well that stuff will wick into every tiny crack and crevice.
Do no hammer it off.
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From: N. Richland Hills
I'll have to look into that 7/16-20 threaded rod, we were actually looking for that the other day but didn't find any. I am using a good ole Harbor Freight puller with some 7/16-20 fine thread grade 8 bolts/nuts/washers to pull on.
I wish I had time to wait for that kent-moore tool but we need to get it done this week. I may try to find some chain to keep the hub from spinning as I have been using a 2x4 on the flexplate to stop the movement (not working very well lol.)
No heat b/c he doesn't wanna torch his opti and doesn't wanna take it out. Thanks for the input, I'll keep looking/trying things out
I wish I had time to wait for that kent-moore tool but we need to get it done this week. I may try to find some chain to keep the hub from spinning as I have been using a 2x4 on the flexplate to stop the movement (not working very well lol.)
No heat b/c he doesn't wanna torch his opti and doesn't wanna take it out. Thanks for the input, I'll keep looking/trying things out
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From: N. Richland Hills
We said **** it and put the stock balancer back on it. He was gonna use an ATI superdamper but we're gonna wait on a superduper LT1 specific hub puller. Broke 2 puller bodies with the chain method and still no dice
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It "can" be used also for the ATI but because the ATI hub is diffrent than stock you have to "improvise".
I have the ATI and also a Eagle forged crank where the center front hole in the crank goes WAY deeper than stock so you have to use a socket & spacer (washers or something) to keep the KM removal tool part from going in the 2+" in the crank thus not allowing enough length of the removal part (it wont be long enough) to work. On install you just need to buy a large (measure the ATI opening) grade 8 washer as the center opening of the ATI hub is larger than the OEM hub
pic of the "mod" to pull the ATI hub using the KM tool
If there is a specific install/removal tool for the ATI unit...it "may" also work on the stock hub.
